Didnt Want To Say It.........but Winter Is Coming Soon!!!

[mistahead]

YUP ESPECIALLY FOR ME they dont call it winterpeg for nothing!!! any one got any winter shop tricks since my exaust will be sucking out all my warm air what will i do??? im about to build my new shop. any ideas?? thanks in advance!!!!

[Nightcat]

Stocking caps seem to be popular... :rollin

[jiminyrootkit]

if you pour a slab floor, DEFINATELY go radiant heat (hot water tubes in the cement).
it'll warm up the whole slab, which keeps the building toasty (and gets it toasty again quicker after you kill the exhaust).
not to mention if you do it right (and have a suitable location), you can solar heat the water for it for free...... but that's another lesson.
-f

[slinger]

if your floor can be keept warm like the guy above me said, your golden... the cold feet in a cold shop is the worst...

[Mr. Whale dick]

man i can't wait for winter...summer sux

[mistahead]

yea but where u live??

[CosmicGlassInc]

Bunny boots and sweaters and jackets and deff nice warm wool cap. When radiant heat aint an option.

[steven p selchow]

yea..can't wait till it gets 20 below and I fall on my ass on the ice, get stuck in a snow bank, kinda miss shoveling that shit too...seeing your breath when its sub zero is pretty cool too.

[mistahead]

ahh ... i was waiting for an alaskan to reply!! does the torch keep you hands warm enough iguess?
just cant stop once ya start i guess i would love to do the in floor heating idea my friends just built a house with that shit itspretty dope!! i live in the country so i could just get them to deliver one of those huge propane cells and get a propane water heater to heat that shit . i wonder how much that would cost???

[jiminyrootkit]

uhm. lots.
-f

[mistahead]

my step dad had these battery operated socks for huntin when i was a kid!!! prolly i little cheaper!!

[magism]

being in the south, personally I can't wait for winter. right now the shop is damm hot!

[Julian]

The feet problem is the biggest issue... your hands developing large red rough parts on the back is another one. Last year was the first year in 6 that I decided to give up and coldwork and fuse for January

I've tried the battery powered socks..that was a frickin joke. I need socks that plug in. I went to a giant hunting/outdoor store in the Spring and found some $150 death boots on sale for $40. This is the way to go!! For some reason I had been wearing more and bigger socks while still using my old, hole ridden sneakers. The Death Boots made all the difference, and Northern Minnesota is often COLDER than Alaska since we don't have a nice happy ocean (okay, you can get -15 instead of -30 if you are by the lake). Yippee.

[mistahead]

And a huge bump.... well im gonna go through with getting a slab with infloor heating laid down and getting a proffesional well insulated shop laid down and its gonna cost apretty penny!!! (add to the mortgage)!!!!! so i wanna do it right!! so if any one has anymore winter shop suggesetions it would be much appreciated at this point one other thing i was thinkin is getting a foot switch for my exaust so that when i dont REALLY need it on could click it on and off like when im just prepping clear or takin quick smoke breks etc.. thanks for all the help so far but if ive overlooked anything please let me know!!! shop should be finished by mid november the glass must get out the house with the new baby girl and alll...

[bc]

:rollin
yea..can't wait till it gets 20 below and I fall on my ass on the ice, get stuck in a snow bank, kinda miss shoveling that shit too...seeing your breath when its sub zero is pretty cool too. :rollin :rollin

[Zed]

Anyone ever see the movie "Blade Runner" with Harrison Ford. I've always thought a heated suit like the Asian bioengineer had when he was making the eyes would be a cheep way to stay toasty in a cold shop.

[skip]

Radiant heating in the floor is the way to go. Other than that I guess insulated walls and a low insulated ceiling would be good too. I couldn't imagine trying to heat a building with 20 foot ceilings. But the radiant flooring probably wouldn't be to affected by tall ceilings.

[Mike_Aurelius]

I've got hydronic heat in my basement and I'll never do without it again.

But for your ventilation - run your fresh air intake in ducts directly to your work bench. The best way is to run it up under your bench and cut some holes in the bench top and duct it up from underneath. This way the exhaust fan will pull the air up and out.

If you just dump the air from the side, you will always have cold air dropping onto the bench.

Be sure to insulate the fesh air ducts to prevent condensation.

[Mac Maestro]

80 degrees and beautiful. People go to the beach around here in the winter. That'll be a nice change from blistering heat and humidity. Anyone wanting to get away for a bit this winter feel free to hit me up. *hint hint. I just got here and I'm sharing. ;) Go to Mickelson's class... come down here and blow glass, boat and fish, get a tan... (sorry- not trying to rub it in)

[ben walsh]

keeping your shop ventilated properly is key. although radiant heat is great and can be done alot cheaper than the fore-mentioned, you should keep your mind open to different options. (not that this is the best solution but) i use a wood pellet/corn furnace, in a 12X18 shed about 1800 cu.ft. the model i have will heat a house in the cold cold winter. its thermostatically controlled and throws a serious amount of forced hot air which i have directed at the floor to help use all of the hot air. (heat rises) at -20 degrees F. and my exhaust fan moving approximately 1500 cfm i can keep my shop at 50 degrees, which is a little cold but still workable with a sweatshirt. get an anti-fatigue mat to help with the cold feet a nice thick one(rubber).
if i were building a new shop i would run bunch of copper tubing in my furnaces heat exchanger lay a bunch of tubing in the floor and connect it to an electric pump ( to run water with) to help make my furnace work more for me.
hope all this helps.
ben

[mistahead]

thanx every body!!! my next ? was gonna be the placement of my ventilation but i think you hit the nail right on the head mike running the ventilation under and up through the bench sounds like a killer idea!!!!! the shop will be 24x20 (its gonna be my jam space too!!) roughly 4000 square ft with 10 ft ceilings what size of intake fan would be good?? i currently have a 700 cfm but i dont think it will doo the triclk should my intake just be passive or should i have an intake fan as well??? and as for the offer maestro it sounds great the only prollem is that the U.S. border has a couple of prollems with some of my past history but i swear it wAS 4 medical use only!!!! ive gotten lucky gettin across b4 thoughh who knows u might just get a knock at your door from a guy standing in a puddle(the melted icecicles)!!!! peace everyone Randy Head!!!

[RedHotBeads]

Man, I HATE winter. Hate it, hate it, hate it ... and even more this year....due to a "home improvement project," I had to tear down my shop and relocate it ten miles away. I guess I should be glad at least i have somewhere to go!

In my former shop, I used an overhead ceramic heater and an electric radiant heater. Worked great. Wasn't really warm, but warm enough to torch.

[Mike_Aurelius]

The size of the fan depends on the size of the hood you are going to use.

If you use an over the bench hood, use 125 CFM per square foot of hood coverage.

If you use an open face hood (3 sides, a bottom being the bench and a top) then use 80 CFM per square foot of hood face.

If you can give me the information about how far the run will be and number of 90 degree bends, I can calculate the static pressure, duct size and what not for you.

[brettodie]

80 cfm is not adaquete for what we do industrial standerds for haz.substances is 150 cfm. real toxic stuff theyll use over 200 cfm. peace brett

[mistahead]

thanks again mike thats some seriously valuable info!! sorry i made a typo up top i meant 4000 cubic feet and im not sure exactly what u mean by ho far th run would be but maybe this would be helpful. basicly its 24x20 10 foot ceilings with my bench across the back walli was planning on putting 2 stations and eventully 3my intake could be installed on the end of the bench either side or bothand could run it under the bench up through like u said and the out take straight up through the roof with maybe one ninty degree bend if i vent it out the end insted of straight out the roof....cant finish typin gettin dizzy need sleep!!!!!!!

[Mike_Aurelius]

"Run" means the length of duct from the hood to the outside wall where it will exhaust. I usually plan on at least two 90 degree bends, so if you end up with only one, you will still be miles ahead.

Brett - the 80 CFM comes direct from the ACGIH Recommended Practices. The exhaust plume of torches, including any metals from the glass and NOX can safely be handled by 80 CFM per square foot with an enclosed hood as I described. My personal studio, with 5 bench hoods runs about 87 CFM per square foot, and we have never had any problems with odor, NOX or otherwise. It was designed for 80 CFM per square foot, but because we couldn't find the exact fan CFM we needed, we got what we got.

Exhausting too much air impacts the room temperature significantly, especially during weather extremes of summer and winter. A properly designed system has very little room temperature impact.

[Mike_Aurelius]

mista - the size of the room really doesn't enter into the calculations. Design the hood - usually an overhead hood is going to be the size of the bench. Let's say the bench is 6 feet long by 3 feet deep. That's 18 square feet. Multiply by 125 CFM, the fan you would need is 2250 CFM.

[VinE]

me , ak throck and my hvac homie that I know from back in the day, are going to figure out how to comfortably blow glass in sub zero tempratures. I think it will involve "heating coils" for the intake ......I will keep you updated.

until then, get a space heater and some f'ing long underwear bro. good luck.

[rattshak]

I have the evil propane heater. It keeps me nice and toasty with ventilation off. Otherwise, I'm just f'd. Not like i'm in the part of the country like hasslenuts and selchow where it gets like 30 below 0, but in PA it can get really aweful in the winter. I usually just wear my thick skiing socks, turtleneck, sweater, thermal pants under jeans....

You can make due, but if you go my route, be VERY VERY careful with those propane stove like heaters. They can be a nightmare if used improperly.

[steven p selchow]

C'mon...move up here to the frozen tundra. So far its been ok, I entered a art show this weekend "up north". Its in Eagle river, Wisconsin. I usually quit outdoor shows come October, much less go further north than where Im at already. This is almost to the upper pennisula of Michigan, but the good news its going to be 75 degrees both days, unheard of for this time of year, plus it draws about 50,000 people, rain or shine or even snow, 2 years ago I heard people were actually setting up in snow, lucked out to pick this year as my first.

Steve :lol

[broken glass]

o yah im so bummed that winter is comming, sometimes it gets as low as 50 during the day and sometimes it even gets below 40 at night. Looks like i will have to wear long sleaves and pants. I sure hope it doesn't rain too much. lol hahahahahaha why don't all of you move , o ya you are living for dirt cheap I hope.

[mistahead]

oops i screwed up or sumin here let me try agagn

[mistahead]

i just e mailed u a bitch slap broken!!!! :devil1: and thanks agaign to everyone this has been a ton of helpfull info!!! when i figure out the exact run ill let you know mike!!!!