crack advice...

[VED]

i need some help/advice i made a sherlock that i am really proud of but before i could get the blow tube off and finish it up i ran out of oxy (first time i have done that real annoying) im not sure what i did but i ended up with a crack in the middle of the pipe about an inch long. i was thinking i would just bring it up to 1100 in the kiln and then try to get it out with my center fire. i was just wondering what advice anyone had to offer on this subject before i just go for it.


peace
ved

[mer]

if you have a hand torch you might try heating it up in the kiln and then backing the crack out while it's still in there. if not get it really warm and then use a small bushy flame. start heating away from the crack where it's going to want to run and move back towards it. i don't know why but i always want to rush when i'm making repairs like getting it out of the kiln too fast and such. don't do it, just take your time until it's out of the kiln, then be swift like a ninja.

[garrick]

your guess is probably right on, just be sure you hit both "ends" of the crack first, then work your way to the middle. i've always had luck with that process. only problem i've really had is on i/o fumed pieces you end up with a clear line where the crack was.

[K-Dog]

this is how i do it when i have a crack in something worth fixxing
i tend to repair my stuff starting cold,but i'd recomend soaking your piece at 1150 for atleast a half hour.

throw your piece into a normal flame,no oxy.Let the silt start to build up on it for a minute or two,add a little oxy.you want your flame to look like fire,not a blue flame.keep spinning your piece in the fire and building up that silt on the glass.add a little more oxy.slowly add more and more oxygen until you see that the silt has got a red glow,remove your piece from your now blue flame,blow on the silt,if it's on there thick enough and it's hot enough the silt will blow away.check your crack,(it could be gone at this point) if not go down to a pinpoint flame and run it over your crack slowly.the key to fixxing a crack is to make sure your piece is evenly heated inside and out. doing it this way takes alot of time but always give me a good end result.it works well with surface cracks and shallow interior cracks.if your piece is cracked evenly all the way through,chuck it and make a new one.

[CitizenNot]

crack kills

[JANKYglass]

less baking powder=better buzz but it kills your profit

[NUBBLET]

I leave at 1150-1200 or a touch more (as high as 1300 , but this tends to turn the crack invisible almost making it harder to fix , also you have to be careful about slumping up this high)for about 20 30 min then pull it out and hit it with a oxy flame but not over forcefull , most the time you cant even tell it had a crack even with iso work, if you bring it hot hot before taking it out you have better luck.

[Greymatter Glass]

chore boy is better than steel wool.....

[yinzer]

mini roses in little tubes are available at most convenience stores

[mistahead]

less baking powder=better buzz but it kills your profit

baking powder is for making cookies yo...you want to use baking SODA!!

[yinzer]

baking powder is for making cookies yo...you want to use baking SODA!!

ahahaha i just caught that too...

[garrick]

i wouldnt even admit to knowing that

[yinzer]

why not?? they teach it in dare....

[mistahead]

just listen to lots of master P he gives all kinds of crack advice...

[Natedizzle]

"I smoke weed 'cause i'm a drug dealer"

Master P

[Greymatter Glass]

I learned how to make Crack by watching Cops

(not kidding)

[garrick]

i didnt know anybody actually listened to master p

[massvegas]

uhhhhhhhhhh na na na na,

heat tht shit up way hot someone said 1300 , sounds good.
just let it sit for 20 minutes ,
do u still have a handle attachted to it,

if not ,
heat up the peice in kiln, grab with tweezers, then attatch to punty put right back in kiln for 10 more minutes, then put the propane flame to it,
if the crack starts to run put back in kiln till its really hot.
then go for it again.

if it doesnt work just mix in some baking soda in wit yo shit and cook it up, ,
then go to ur stash of 9.5 and just free base till your parents come home.

smokin coke!!

[brettodie]

i do lots of fixing pieces for a wholesaler friend everything from headpieces to roors ect. i garage the piece in the kiln at 1065 for about an hour or so. pull it attach a blow tube real quick. rekiln it for 20 mins. at least.if its a real bad one face the crack towards the coils of the kiln. i use a hand torch for almost all of my repairs but you can use the small flame on your torch also. pretend your airbrushing the heat into the piece. i tend to do circles around the crack and brush the heat across the crack itself. let the heat penetrate the glass aways before your really settle on the crack if you do it right the crack will slowly fade away like it was never there. if the crack opens up you added to much heat to fast. its all about slowly building the heat base in and around the crack till it reforms to its original state. takes a bit of practice to get down but mostly just patience.good luck with it. peace brett

[newmexicomagma]

i do the same as kurt. u have to be patient but it will work most of the time. what i think sooting it up does is slowly gets the heat all the way through the tube. which is important because the crack is most likely surfaced on the inside of your pipe so just melting the surface does no good. so make sure you soak it real nice. 1300 degrees sounds like it will slump pieces to me but just keep an eye on them and crank it down before they melt.