New Kick ASS surely bub, I need advice though

[teaspoon420]

Check it out......
http://www.glasspipes.org/Img170219__Img170219_DSCN0046.JPG.asp
It cracked though, because it was like 33 degrees f. when I made it. When I ramp it up to fix it, what is the best temp to ramp it up to? I know a bit higher is better, but how high? 1250? I don't know.........

[NUBBLET]

sounds good

[Firekist]

if it's the black tubing that cracked.. well.. good luck. fixing that doesn't always work that well =-( 1250 is fine, just don't let it soak for too long, especially since you have some green in there.

lookin good =)

z---seth

[brettodie]

looks like its cracked at the bottom of the can? no need to goto 1250. i do all my repairs at 1065. face the part of the piece with the crack towards the kiln elements. let it soak at temp for an hour so your heat base is good and soaked in. when you pull it from the kiln have a plan.already know where you need to go with the heat and get to it. dont check it out and dilly dally. when you introduce it to the flame "paint" the heat into the piece build the heat up on and around the crack slowly you want to get the heat base built up evenly inside and out so the crack wont split on you. if possible surround the crack with heat and work your way to the center. i like to use a hand torch to start with because its easier to direct the heat where you need it.
when your done get it back in the kiln let it warm up for at least a half hour before you pull it to do a check to see if you fixed it. once again dont dilly dally.if you didnt fix it all the way back to the kiln with it. 33 degrees out shouldnt really effect your work very much. easiest way to prevent cracking larger pieces it to make something between steps so you know its been in long enough to get up to temp.and dont dilly dally,no checking your piece out showing it off to others ect. good luck with your fix. peace brett

[vetropod]

Got no advice for you, but nice work! Good luck with the coldness factor.

[teaspoon420]

on the torch now, fix went well I think......... it was semi thin so it went back together easy enough. Scary though, I could squeeze the can and watch the crack open and close. Thanks for the advice though...... your right, I just have to know exactly what my plan is and don't dilly dally. And a good soaking sure helped.

[CripSkillz]

that is nice,, how long does it take you to make one like that??

[teaspoon420]

a day, 6 hours or so, not counting the fix, I go slow.

[CripSkillz]

I knew it had to be a while

[Riley]

even tho its already fixed heres my 2 cents. do as aforementioned, soak and know your plan. for healing cracks i use a soft flame, not bushy, direct but soft. i heat in the areas the crack is heading for once this area is heated you can work into the line of the crack and work it to the center then do the same on the other end of the crack.

if you had wanted to blow tube up again, i might take hot fingers, cover the carb with a gather of clear and attach a blowtube back to the mouthpiece. let mouth cool for a moment and then spot weld a bit because this area will want to crack beacause the weld will be poor. now that the carb is covered you should have enough blow pressure to blow the bottom of your can out a little work it down and repeat. this will ensure you worked the crack out entirely.

this advice can be used for fixing pipes as well. its better to know how to prevent this from happening altogether but having some skills to fix never hurts. good luck

[lsw]

Hope it works out well for ya. I pretty much stick to the same plan as Brettodie. Put the cracked part of the piece near the element and get it into the flame quickly once outta the kiln. The only thing I do different sometimes is I will heat both ends of the crack inside the kiln to keep it from traveling before taking it out