View Full Version : Glass ?s
CripSkillz
02-07-2008, 12:02 PM
So I wana do more ISO but its jsut a pain in the arse with 26x4 , I was thinkin "rare ocation" I could get a case of 50 x 2.5 and i wouldnt really even have to flair it open much this sound right and what do you think about this any other sugestions
thx
garrick
02-07-2008, 12:04 PM
yeah that would work but its a big jump from what you are used to. i would suggest 38 xtra hvy and you only have to flare it out a little bit.
teaspoon420
02-07-2008, 12:15 PM
that's how I was taught to cut cup's for ISO prodo. With 50x4 or 44x4 I pull a
point on a 2ft or so section open the point then melt the other end down until it is a nice even, thick bottom for your cup. Then attach a punty and center (hardest part, but it doesn't matter if it's perfect) then flame cut the cup off of the tube, you will close the cup when you cut it, but just heat it and remove glass until a relatively centered hole pops. Then just flare the lip of the cup out, which should be already hot, and boom you've got a nice even walled cup that's open and ready for design. Just so you know though, rollers are nice for this as a 2ft section of 44 or 50 can get heavy, I don't use em and it's gotten easier to do more in a row, but had to get used to the weight. I will see about putting a photo tutorial together today when I'm prepping and get you a visual. You will love working and open cup like this because the meltdown is much more even and consistent.
check out this vid firekist made on how to do inside out on 50mm standard.
http://www.thegldg.com/forum/showpost.php?p=237503&postcount=1
CripSkillz
02-07-2008, 01:01 PM
Thanks guys vid was good I think im gona go for it n get some 50x2.5, any thing to save me frustration n time usully takes me almost an hour to do a ISO and my flairs never come out even, maybe i jsut need to get the whole piece of tube rippin hot and blow it all out at once ,
i normally do like the back half first then blow the front out then open its a pain in the arse n not even but it jsut seems hard to keep a 5 inch piece straight when its all hot n floppy, hehhe
Just get some 38 or 44 heavy and you dont even have to flare it much. Just pull a point and flare it a bit.
CripSkillz
02-07-2008, 02:05 PM
humm it jsut seems like teh med wall would melt down eaiser and sink the lines in better but i could be wrong,, 44 heavy seems like it would still be kinda heavy heheh have to blow it out a bit to sink the shit, i figure with the 50 i could jsut line it then shrink it down n be done , , tell me if im wrong
jusbag
02-07-2008, 02:07 PM
Thanks guys vid was good I think im gona go for it n get some 50x2.5, any thing to save me frustration n time usully takes me almost an hour to do a ISO and my flairs never come out even, maybe i jsut need to get the whole piece of tube rippin hot and blow it all out at once ,
i normally do like the back half first then blow the front out then open its a pain in the arse n not even but it jsut seems hard to keep a 5 inch piece straight when its all hot n floppy, hehhe
Think about the heat base as you are putting the heat into the peice. Heat it slowly in the back of the flame. You can also pull it out of the flame for a couple rotations to let the heat soak from the surface to the core, then back in the flame again(do that a couple times). You do not need to get it floppy in order to blow it out. It just has to have a nice even heat base through the wall.
You can do the back half then the first half if it is something that seems too big. But after that heat up the entire peice to even out the walls. Use a big bushy flame that is not extremely hot. You can always make it hotter later if things are not moving fast enough for you.
That's just a couple of suggestions for blowing out a nice big even bubble. As for the inside out I would totally go with the 50 x 2.5. Way quicker!
i use a lot of 44x4 and it's good in that it's a shit ton of glass and you end up with heavy spoons. that being said it also takes a ton of heat to melt it all down (and possibly blow it out again and repeat) in a reasonable amount of time. if i remember correctly you're on an 8-m? if so you may want to practice for a minute making bats on the thinner walled tube. try using thinner stringers too. when you watch that vid be sure to mind the angles that he's using. i'm sure you'll get it but be prepared to start jonesing for a bigger flame as you want heavier pieces.
CripSkillz
02-07-2008, 02:28 PM
Thx Jus ill try that, n Monk did you see teh vid i made last night i was a lil drunk so i might have to make a better one to really show the flame but you might get the idea i think i might have enuf heat to do it its a sm21 on teh bottom
http://download.yousendit.com/CD9EBE8C73AF6B04
i'm a macfool so i can't seem to get it to play in quicktime but i used an 8-m for a couple years until i could get a bigger torch. it'll definitely melt a lot of glass but for heavy stuff it's a little slow and i found the radiant heat to be a sumbitch. by the time you finish a couple spoons on 44x4 you'll have a pretty good sunburn on your face and some really hot hands. the place between my thumb and forefinger used to get pretty toasted so that i would have to take a day off sometimes. ouch!
CripSkillz
02-07-2008, 03:01 PM
i hear that it does get hotter than a mofo workin around that brick
jiminyrootkit
02-07-2008, 07:01 PM
$.02:
i do my i/o almost exclusively on 50x2.5.... just punty up w/10mm rod and flame cut (diamond shears if you have em) cups off and either warm em up on the torch and work em on the spot, or fill the kiln door up with punties and go to town.
you don't have to flair it at all until the cup is at least 3 inches deep, and if you do, just a LITTLE flair out on the last inch or so lets you get back in there.
but i bet it's gonna be a bitch on an 8m....doable? probably, but i've never used an 8m, and i'm not generally very patient ;)
-f
ShttrdSpctrm
02-09-2008, 10:10 AM
get some 50 heavy, step it up son. I use 44 or 50 heavy for spoons, which I hate making. I use 50 heavy when doing linework for reversals too. and I use 32 or 38 heavy for bats, cause thats what I had, which I hate making too. but thats what pays the bills. and thats what people want.
CripSkillz
02-09-2008, 11:01 AM
I think ima go wif teh 50 2.5 i dont wana have to roast thah hard all teh time heheheh
nicko0
02-09-2008, 08:13 PM
50x 2.5 likes a big soft flame to get it to colalapse nicely. 38x4 is the largest i would go on an 8m.
Big Jay
02-09-2008, 08:21 PM
bro your nuts. I couldn't even imagine attempting 50mm with that torch. Its plenty hot enough but it takes so long to get a whole piece warm.
I am glad you brought this up though I have been trying to iso and tried everything to to get it in smaller tube even drawing lines on 9mm tube , melting it in and condensing and then sticking it in 25.4 and blowing it out. It works somewhat but I think I am going to 44 x 4.
kiss_my_glass
02-09-2008, 08:26 PM
okay, i'll chime in here cause i think crip and i are about at the same level and I have just recently been doing a lot of iso. I think it's too much work to put in on 26X4 because after you condense it down to get a good 3d effect, it's a tiny little spoon and you just can't sell it for what you put into it. Clear glass is dirt cheap (well if you get it from the right place) so give them lots of it if you are spending a lot of time on technique. I have a redmax and the biggest stuff I've worked so far is 38x4 and I think it's fine, but I have to say that I think the standard wall stuff is a lot better for iso. Not only is it quicker, but it seems to give a better 3d effect. So, regardless of how big you decide to go I say definitely get standard wall for iso. I don't have any reason to back up why it seems to be better, it just does. One of these days I will post some pics of what I make...maybe tomorrow. I just moved out into the sticks so I'm a little busy chopping wood to keep warm. ;)
CripSkillz
02-09-2008, 10:21 PM
So Jp you think the sm21 tip i got on teh bottom wont be big enuf for 50 2.5
i cant really see a diff of meltin it down jsut liek meltin down a big bubble of 26
i jsut thinking of time savings here really because it takes me a good 7-10 min to pull teh point and warm it all up then blow it out then pop theend and clena it up then flair it a lil more jsut time consuming and i basically end up with a bell that probally around 50 mm if not a bit more ,
but like KMG says it does condense down to a pertty small piece after cleanin the ends up n shit. so that would make me have to do it 2 times to make a decent sized pice. and ya cant wait to see some of your work toooo.
if i can jsut line it and condense blow condence that should save me mega time.
and that sm21 tip makes a pertty big bushy flame.
so im still gona get some 50 2.5 and if my torch wont do it right i guess ill just have to get a better one heheheh
and i cant see how the extra 1/2 inch but actually thinner wouldnt be good on this flame
Big Jay
02-10-2008, 12:01 AM
well in all honesty I didn't try the surface mix tips with my 8m just the premix. Plenty hot enough just not big enough. I could heat up tube but it was very difficult to heat up large sections and keep the heat even. Not saying it can't be done but it wasn't easy. Not sure about the surface mix tips but I could make the premix get bushy too but then the heat just goes radiant. My guess by what you said about the torch getting your hands really hot the same thing is happening with you. Your blowing through oxy and gas but not getting the piece heated up much faster.
I guess it can be said about any torch tell you get to the top of the line there is one that will do it faster. When I try to melt in a ton of color on my Bullet and then turn around and watch Maestro do it in 1/4th the time on his huge torch (granted his 11 years exp. pays into this equation too) it makes me think about somehow finding the money to get a huge torch.
CripSkillz
02-12-2008, 01:24 PM
I dotn knwo i think im jsut being wussy, cuz the glass gets my hands hot when its not even in the flame, i guess the defination of hot is different to everyone, and i problly should use longer punty n points also i usually only pull a 8 to 9 inch point so i am a lil close to teh flame. but now that i have blow tube should be eaiser cuz with my balance or lack ther of, when i need to pull it outa the flamm to puff on it i always strech it or bend it or jsut plain fuk it up, without the stomach muscles to hold me up im usually balancen on my elbows, if im not sittin back in the chair or have a piece of my self on somethin ill jstu fall over hehehe, but it is gettin eaiser i jsut need more practice
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