Easy way to connect oxy/propane hoses?

[Joo52]

I just got a Red Max and I'm having a hell of a time trying to connect the oxy and propane hoses to it. I've already slipped a couple times and ended up with some nasty cuts on my fingers. Anyboy have any suggestions for an easy way to do this. Is it safe to soak the ends of the hoses in some hot water to try to expand them a bit?

Also, should the threaded piece that the hoses connect to be not fully screwed in to the body of the burner for any reason? While I was fiddling around with the hoses I noticed that the piece on the burner that I was trying to slide the hose onto was able to rotate a little in its threading just with the force of my hands. Would I be wrong to assume that these connections should be fairly heavily torqued?

Thanks

[phab]

I just got a Red Max and I'm having a hell of a time trying to connect the oxy and propane hoses to it. I've already slipped a couple times and ended up with some nasty cuts on my fingers. Anyboy have any suggestions for an easy way to do this. Is it safe to soak the ends of the hoses in some hot water to try to expand them a bit?

Also, should the threaded piece that the hoses connect to be not fully screwed in to the body of the burner for any reason? While I was fiddling around with the hoses I noticed that the piece on the burner that I was trying to slide the hose onto was able to rotate a little in its threading just with the force of my hands. Would I be wrong to assume that these connections should be fairly heavily torqued?

Thanks

...not heavily torqued, brass fittings really should seal very easily but you need to mix up some irory sno flakes and water to test connections. theres no petrolium in ivory flakes, you dont want petrolium anywhere near the 02 ever.

if its a barb fitting a little spit should be enough to slip a hose on.

just because you are still seeing threads at a connection with a "B" fitting (threaded) doesnt mean it isint sealed. if you can get them sealed (thats why you need the test water) without teflon tape great. they should seal without tape but you might need a little.

oh yeah i heard hot water helps too, maybe a hair dryer. i also keep a couple of small brass brushes around to clean fittings if they need it, sometimes brush the face of my torch off with it too.

if the connection going into the body of the torch is a factory connection/fitting just tighten it. never used a red max but theres some red max people around

[SouthernFume]

the way i always do it is get a cup of the hottest water u can,then soak it for 40 seconds maybe more if desired.then just wiggle the hose right on up there till it's atleast on the third division of the nipple. should be sufficient enough. to test for leaks simply get a water bottle or whatever you like poke a small hole in the middle shake it up until all there is in the bottle is bubbles squirt enough to cover the whole connection and wait to see if there's any more bubbles coming out. hope it helps.

[Dale M.]

. if you can get them sealed (thats why you need the test water) without teflon tape great. they should seal without tape but you might need a little.



No Teflon tape, EVER, on connections ("B" style) designed to be metal to metal... Only on "tapered pipe thread" fittings....

Dale

[phab]

No Teflon tape, EVER, on connections ("B" style) designed to be metal to metal... Only on "tapered pipe thread" fittings....

Dale


...so how do you seal a leaky connection after youve tightened it as far as it will go? you just throw the fitting away and buy another one? i remember when brass fittings were properly made and threaded, all you ever needed was for them to be hand tight and they wouldnt leak.

[somberbear]

barbs are fairly easy , if your using the approprate size welding hose that is... then ring clamp em , there rubber soaking in warm water with the reinforcing doesnt do a whole lot but put stuff in your lines to run threw your torch ...
....
the barbs should be tight ,

if B's they dont seal like on a be you can clean them out the ball and socket , then crank it down a notch with 2 wrenchs , it should close , if it messes up then get a new one , b fittings dont seal with threading no matter how much you torqe or fill it in with tape , it will eventualy leak , the two soft brass faces is what seals , unlike standard pipe threading.

so just slowly put them on and do your best dont get to jumpy and hurt yourself

the fittings on the torch should be fairly snug to much and you can rip the threading

i personaly use leak check , found soaps for bubbles can have nasty stuff in em, or spit it works and it bubbles....

i havnt really had a problem putting on hoses or manifolds....

peace
rob

[nafglass]

I always had a hard time getting the hoses on my major minor. I had the same problem on my CC so I took it down to Praxair and had them "permanently" crimp a 3/8" 2 foot long piece of hose on each inlet and then put a threaded connector on the other end. The 3/8" hose fits much nicer than the 1/4". This works great if you're going to be unhooking it once and a while. It also makes upgrading to quick connects really easy. quick connects are the way to go if you're going to be unhooking the torch on any regular basis.

[MUPH]

Make sure you have the correct size hoses. I've never had a problem putting on the hoses, maybe they are just cheaper hoses?

I'm with Dan on quick connects.

[somberbear]

yea pig tails is the way to go for most things.....

if you think getting them on is hard getting them off is a night mare

peace
rob

[CitizenNot]

major minor/red max barbs are 3/8. if your trying to use 1/4 in hoses it's pretty much a waste of time and energy, but it can be done.

[harpentuan]

I have 5/16th T-grade hose on a max. It's a dream.

Maybe it's 5/8th hose. I dont know right now trust me dudes, I cant do any numbers at the moment.

[Greymatter Glass]

...so how do you seal a leaky connection after you've tightened it as far as it will go? you just throw the fitting away and buy another one? i remember when brass fittings were properly made and threaded, all you ever needed was for them to be hand tight and they wouldn't leak.

Yep. $5 a set from any welding supplier.

Usual culprit for a blow seal is glass or dirt in the seal. Once there's a scratch or dent in the face of the ball it's done.

Don't abuse your hoses.

The _ONLY_ reason to use Teflon tape on such fittings it to lubricate the threads a little bit - one turn is all you need. You're not trying to seal it with tape, all it's doing is lubricating the treads to allow them to screw in tighter. You never want it over the face of the ball.

-Doug

[Mike Glass]

I don't know if anyone has seen this but it comes in very hand for setting up a torch.


http://cgi.ebay.com/WESTERN-Hose-CK-1-Repair-Kit-very-good-condition_W0QQitemZ320276676471QQihZ011QQcategoryZ 11774QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

There's a bunch of different ones on eBay!

[Dale M.]

...so how do you seal a leaky connection after youve tightened it as far as it will go? you just throw the fitting away and buy another one? i remember when brass fittings were properly made and threaded, all you ever needed was for them to be hand tight and they wouldnt leak.

Yes...........

Dale

[Joo52]

Thanks for all the responses. I eventually got them on by soaking them in some hot water for a while. I only got over 3-4 of the ridges on the fitting. Should that be sufficient?