Colored Tubing COE?

[Ben Burton Glass]

Is the chinese colored tubing 33 COE? I've found a guy on the island through craigslist, who says he has some for sale, but says the COE is 32.5

I'm pretty sure that's close enough for compatability reasons, but I thought I'd ask before I spend any money...

Mahalo and Aloha!

[Brian Newman]

No worries. 32.5 is standard C.O.E. for boro.

[FiredDesires]

Wouldn't anything within a 2-3 point range be happy with one another? Think I read somewhere that boro could be 30-33, something about clear vs. color??

[colonel4bin]

If I remember some of the clear boro brands have different COE's, though not by much.

[Jones Art Glass]

B, you know that the studio I work in distributes the "colorsilicate"? GreyMatter ya'll!!! Diffrent colors work differently but you should be okay. PM or e me to check to price though.... Peace

[Greymatter Glass]

Rashan, Where are you dude? here? there?

COME BACK BRO! THE STU NEEDS YOU!

[J Howard]

i wouldn't be suprised if some of the chinese glass is like COE 36-38... like the greens esp.

[Brian Newman]

i wouldn't be suprised if some of the chinese glass is like COE 36-38... like the greens esp.

I find it is quite "shocky" too, but it does it on it's own and not at the line it is connected in my experience. Have you actually checked if it is a COE thing. or just the glass being able to withstand less?

[Jones Art Glass]

The green really only works well with itself, and the bubblegum is also kinda shocky. But I've been doing encalmo seals with all the other stuff for a while now. Check out the Amber...

[Ben Burton Glass]

Thanx Ya'll!!! I've got some of the pink and cobalt, and I'm gonna see what kind of deal dude will hook me up with for the other colors too... I'm pretty sure it's the same as what everyone else is using... I was just wonder about the COE's but it seems close enough that it should be compatible....

Aloha!

[newmexicomagma]

for what it is the stuf rocks. sometimes the black greys so i sandblast it. sometimes the tubes blow up so i make my money back on the next piece. its a love hate relationship. just have some un with the stuff. u should just order a whole pallet o the stuff.

[brettodie]

i work all the color tubing right outta the kiln. i use the green and cobolt the most with zero probs for a long time. the black/red/amber are all a bit wierd feeling to work real soft an gooey.other color melts wierd into them. only color ive had any real probs with is the black its just real sensative to being different temps in different parts of the piece. never have a prob with the tubes blowing up cause i attach a blowtube and work outta the kiln. not worth the wasted time to have stuff break on me. allmost all of my basic prodo lines use the color tubing in different ways. great time saver. :) peace brett

[J Howard]

cant' beat the price.. basically the same price as clear if you get it from the right place. it is what it is

[newmexicomagma]

lol, i just jam them right in the flame, is that my problem?

[Eric S]

lol, i just jam them right in the flame, is that my problem?

nah i do the same thing. only black gets kilned. i dont know why people have so much trouble with the green, i use it more than anything. encalmo'd between reversals, whole green pieces with reversal windows, fumed and sleeved in clear, its all good. the worst for me is the amber.. it cant take more than 1-2 kilnings and also likes to devit and flow weird when its hot.

[Skye Perry]

The glasstronics green has a C.O.E of 28 and it works well deeply incased inside out or any other application . I think as long as the C.O.E is close it will work . I know that softer glasses the C.O.E can be off alot more for example I use Schott C.O.E 96 pucks with maretti 104 color for vaccume incasements with no issues .As for the china boro tubing the black is the one color that if it is not worked extemly hot it does not seal right and you could end up with accute angle's on the inside of the glass and it will come back to haunt you .The green is the shit I only have had issues with it when rolled in silver frit and fumed with gold and sleeved and when honeycomed with clear . I don't understand why but the gold fume does somthing to the green that it doesn't like and the finished peices just crackle to hell . It fine if only silver frit is used . Honey combing it with clear reduces the Green to much and it cracks damb neer every time. Pink works the best i think, the purple is not half bad either though it does like to crack where you have pulled a point . The amber is really soupy when hot and seals nice and clean .The cobalt well its cobalt works just fine but it is a little stiff they just need to add a softening agent to it like GA doe's to there high saturated cobalts to make them less stiff.

[Greymatter Glass]

Anyone else notice the pink turns bright lime green when heated?

[colonel4bin]

Yeah the pinky does look trippy when working with it! I wonder what they use to make it?

[MUPH]

Lead..


..Just kidding, Had anyone else noticed major inconsistency between batches with these colors?

[J Howard]

Yeah the pinky does look trippy when working with it! I wonder what they use to make it?


i think it's erbium, a rare earth element. wish it would stay that glowing color!

[somewhere]

The glasstronics green has a C.O.E of 28 and it works well deeply incased inside out or any other application . I think as long as the C.O.E is close it will work . I know that softer glasses the C.O.E can be off alot more for example I use Schott C.O.E 96 pucks with maretti 104 color for vaccume incasements with no issues .As for the china boro tubing the black is the one color that if it is not worked extemly hot it does not seal right and you could end up with accute angle's on the inside of the glass and it will come back to haunt you .The green is the shit I only have had issues with it when rolled in silver frit and fumed with gold and sleeved and when honeycomed with clear . I don't understand why but the gold fume does somthing to the green that it doesn't like and the finished peices just crackle to hell . It fine if only silver frit is used . Honey combing it with clear reduces the Green to much and it cracks damb neer every time. Pink works the best i think, the purple is not half bad either though it does like to crack where you have pulled a point . The amber is really soupy when hot and seals nice and clean .The cobalt well its cobalt works just fine but it is a little stiff they just need to add a softening agent to it like GA doe's to there high saturated cobalts to make them less stiff.

viscosity plays a huge part in compatibility. Coe is not the end all be all it barely scratches the surface. Lec linear expansion coefficient and viscosity are your main factors and these can change depending on the temp the glass is worked at. go figure. It's amazing what you can get away with sometimes but that doesn't spell compatibility.