Which glasses??!!

[toe nail]

Im new to glass blowning and this forum,and Im looking for some advice on some glasses.

I need to buy a pair of glasses for mostly pipemaking. I am using didymium ones right now but Im starting to use more colour and I need better protection. I was thinking about getting these split lens ones.
http://www.artglass1.com/didymiumsr.htm
item number 9135

or else the 923 kind, but Im afraid those will be too dark. My other option is getting the flip up clip ons.

any advice or suggestions would be appreciated?

[metzglass]

man get some blue ones

[phab]

...theres only one way to go. AURA LENS. its your eyes man.

quality protection and customer service second to none. buy the best and **** the rest.

[Mike_Aurelius]

The only problem with the glasses you mentioned (from Sundance, no less!!!!!) is that they are not designed for safely working borosilicate glass.

The upper portion of the split lens is just plain didymium or ACE glass without an IR filter. The lower portion is just plain welding glass which does not have a sodium flare filter.

And as has been pointed out many many times, the Boroscopes have totally inadequate IR filtration in the entire lens.

This is a link for technical information on the basic filter types for all glassworkers: http://www.auralens.net/e_gwtechnical.cfm

This link takes you to the general information and ordering pages for Aura Lens Products (my company): http://www.auralens.net/m2_glassworker.cfm

[toe nail]

I know those glasses are the best and that is what I really want but I cant afford them right now. What about getting ace-202 glasses and then getting clip on flip up shades to go with them?

[borealisglass]

Personally, glasses and ventilation are the two things you should spend as much money as needed on. You get the cheap ones you can risk ruining your eyes and never being able to blow glass again. Personal safety is really something to skimp on. I know that they are expensive, but you can get the lenses you need and the economy frames to bring the price down a little.

[chuckworks]

agreed, when i got mine they were 350 but they will last forever and they are the best. if you get crappy ones now you will still have to get good ones later and then you will have bought two pair and spent even more. check the glassifieds and see if anyone is getting rid of some good ones used

[toe nail]

So you are saying I should keep using my plain didymium ones for a month or so and hurt my eyes a bunch just so I will be able to buy the good ones sooner, and its not worth it at all to buy some that are better than what I have now??!?!?! That seems a little rediculous. And again I KNOW that the aura lens glasses are the best things to get but even if I wanted to I couldn't afford them!!!!!!! I need SOMETHING soon. There is absolutely no alternative to aura lenses ?

[skip]

use your didydiums WITH a welders shade and your fine for now. It's called Ghetto style. I used to get the welding shade from the welding store that fits in a helmet. I scored and snapped the shades in 1/4's and then electrical taped 2 smaller pieces over the didydiums then used sunglass "gators" to help hold up the little bit of extra weight. CHEAP and it works. I like this way better than the flipdowns that are made to go over Didydiums. The flipdowns reflect in between the 2 glasses a lot and it's hard to see. We used to do this before Aura had specific glasses for boro. I've had Auras for years they are good. Definately worth it for now.

[Dog Squeez]

If you need a month or so, go to a welding supplier (where you buy O2) they should
have some cheap plastic #5 welding shades. Use them over your Didy's for that month
then use the money you haved saved for a good pair of Auralens glasses.

Go cheap, Go blind!

[skip]

Just putting this out there for those that haven't heard yet.. Plastic welding shades will work BUT they will "fade" over time (LIke a year I think). Glass welding shades last a lifetime. Anyways if you want to use plastic make sure to replace them every year.

[toe nail]

ok thanks a lot that's what I'll do

[chuckworks]

i dont think its rediculous to go to the glassifieds and see if there is anyone with used one that you CAN afford. what i think is rediculous is that you are planning on buying and owning three pairs of glasses, whats the point of that

[christopher]

I'm in the same position right now, using didymiums (sp?) with a welder's shade 3 on the front. My question is, which auras should I get? I do boro work, I use color, and I do fume (not tons though). So much information on their web site. It sounds like the AGW-286 are the ones I need. Is there a possibility of them being too dark? I generally do fairly small work (on a major right now, you know...).

[timinny420]

i use the 203 cuz its all i could afford - how soon do i need to go to the 286 - or do i if i rarely do fume work (use a lot of fuming colors though) - what do the 286 have that the 203 don't - thanks -

[skip]

with the 286's you can get the split lens (HIGHLY reccomended) I have like a shade 7 and shade 5 split with 2/3 of the lens being darker. You can get 1/2 annd 1/2 or 1/3 , 2/3 split.

The difference between the 203's and the 286's primariily is the base lens I THINK.... The website does a pretty good job explaining the differnce if I recall. Plus you can not get split lenses on the 203.

If you feel your glasses are too dark put more and brighter lights in your work area... IT helps tremendously.

[timinny420]

i guess i am wondering what the 203 dont provide in just protection - it seams like there are good enough for color boro just not fumeing -- am i messin up my eyes by not useing fume and just sticking with the 203 or do i need to start saveing for a pair 286

[Mike_Aurelius]

The 203's provide most if not all the IR filtration, but are not dark enough for most advanced work (such as fuming, working intensely radiating colors etc).

It is my recommendation, that if you do use the plastic/polycarbonate welders clips, to replace them every 6 months, not every year. A year, especially if you are working 8+ hours a day 6 or 7 days a week, is way too long of radiation exposure, and they will fade past the safe point.

Remember that these are designed as temporary welders filters, not permanent protection.

[Kalera]

Mike, what shade do you recommend for someone working smallish beads in a lot of silver-rich colors?

[JDeMoss]

i dont think its rediculous to go to the glassifieds and see if there is anyone with used one that you CAN afford. what i think is rediculous is that you are planning on buying and owning three pairs of glasses, whats the point of that

If you start out with what you can afford and work your way up, then you have glasses for your friends to use when they watch you. You can never have too many glasses laying around.

[toe nail]

If you start out with what you can afford and work your way up, then you have glasses for your friends to use when they watch you. You can never have too many glasses laying around.


Exactly. And the first pair won't be a waste of money because they are relatively cheap.

[Mike_Aurelius]

Kalera - a minimum of shade 3.5 (which, curiously enough, is our AGW-203) ;)

[smutboy420]

Now this is what I call a full covage lens!
http://www.glasspipes.org/Images/ThumbNails/000066000/Thm66035_PIX__116.jpg

If the 203's came in that frame that would rock. Tho i bet expensive as hell with the size lenses they would need.

[Mike_Aurelius]

ROFL -- and you wouldn't be able to wear them because they'd be so heavy!

[Nightcat]

I own the AGW-203's and I love them. I have very pale eyes and most bright light bothers me. The didy's were even too light for soft glass for me. I now use the 203's for both soft glass and boro. I also have a shade 3 face shield that I use as needed.

I would have gotten the 286's if they came with something like a shade ~2 on top and a shade 5 bottom. Probably not a big market for that though. All in all I am a huge fan of the 203's.

I'm pretty happy with that big-block marble mold I bought from Mike too! Seems to be holding up well.

~Ross~

[The Eyeball Kid]

I'm pretty sure they'll make you 286's with any shade / split combo you want.
I have 286's with shade 3 on top and shade 7 on the bottom (3/4 split I believe).

I really like the shades I have selected. Only on very rare occasions do I wish I had a darker or lighter shade.

looks like this: :cool2:

[demixandremix]

Hey Mike-
I remeber a long time ago you were going to license Phillips Safety's filter technology for your auras. Did you ever do that? Do you use their filters? Do you guys work together,or what? I need the real scoop on this, because I am about to order 2 frames. Thanks a lot. Jason. PS: I really like your cartoon picture in your messages, it's kewl.

[Mike_Aurelius]

Actually Jason, we offered a license to Phillips for OUR technology, but they never responded. We've had a couple of other inquiries, but nothing has gone any further than that.

Phillips and Aura DO NOT, repeat DO NOT work together in any way, shape or form.

We do not use their filter, it is unsafe for borosilicate glassworkers.

[Kalera]

Kalera - a minimum of shade 3.5 (which, curiously enough, is our AGW-203) ;)

Cool, 'cause I had my eye on those. I want the 286 but I am not financially flush right now! However... I might be in another couple of weeks.

[onion]

hey mike are you able to custom fit lenses in old glasses? i have a kick ass old pair of bolle aviators that have taken one scratch too many and id love to ressurect them as awesomely hip safety gear

[Kalera]

That's a great question; Mike put AUR-92s in frames I provided. I have a ton of old but good frames around, maybe that would be a good use for one of them!

[Mike_Aurelius]

We can, provided the frame is in good condition and can have lenses inserted into it - some sunglass manufacturers' frames are not able to have other lenses installed due to the way they are manufactured. We take it on a case by case basis.

[onion]

thanks fo rthe info, i may be contacting you sometime in the near future about that

[JTGlass]

Hey Mike...
So the 203s would be okay for working smaller colored/silver type glass? When fuming, is it the actual act of fuming that is not good for the eyes, or is it working the piece after you have fumed it that is still bad? The fuming process only takes less then a minute and if i divert my eyes then it shouldnt be a problem, correct? If I could get away with using the 203s on smaller flameworked glass and just not look directly at the piece when I fume, would I be okay? If so I would like to buy some 203s because of the lighter weight and better visabilty that I would assume it would give me over my 286 shade 5s.

[natehussey]

I am about to get some 286's. I started with boroscopes in a shade 3 and as soon as i got them i knew they sucked. I just thought i got to light of a shade so I spent another 170 bucks on a shade 5. they are dark, but i can only work for about 6 or 7 hours before my eyes start to hurt. now at this point I have spent well over 300 bucks on glasses.

My wife makes fun of me because I am constantly wearing my shade 3's under my shade 5's. I look like a retard but my eyes don't hurt. it is quite uncomfortable. I wear the 5's down on my nose a bit so I have a shade 3 on top and i don't know like a shade 8 on the bottom. that part i really love, so I am going with the split 286's 3/5. unless you got something with a tad bit darker bottom mike....nate

[natehussey]

just answered my own question mike. like a dumb ass i went to your site AFTER i asked the question. those 4/6's are me i think. thanks...nate

[Mike_Aurelius]

Rosie - it's that the fixed shade number of the 203's (3.5) is not dark enough to block the intense light flare from fuming that causes the problem. Averting your eyes may work, but if you are not actually watching what you are doing, how can you make a good fume? I always have to watch to be sure I've got the metal in the right place in the flame AND the glass just so to catch the fume. I can't imagine trying to fume while not looking.

[JTGlass]

I am awesome at fuming. I know where to set the flames for both gold and silver. Fuming is one of my strong points. Ive been fuming for 12 years now. I can set the flame, stick the gold or silver in it, and just keep my eyes focused on the piece that is being fumed without looking at the punty with the metal in it. The intense light flare from the punty with gold or silver on it IS in my peripheral vision however. I usually do not look directly at it, I just keep my eyes on the fumes and the piece that is getting fumed. I get incredible results through fuming. For some people fuming can be very tricky, but once you've got it down it becomes fairly simple and only takes less than a minute to accomplish.

Would having that intense light from fuming in my peripheral vision be damaging, or as damaging to my eyes as If I was looking directly at it? And if not, Would the 203's be a good canidate for me? I already own a pair of 286's with full coverage shade #5. I am interested in the 203s because of the potentially lighter weight and because I find that shade number 5 is just too dark for me even in my well lit shop. I also prefer the full coverage shades laminated on top rather than the split lenses because the split lenses tend to irritate my line of vision. Presently I work only with a lynx and I mainly do only small pieces and beads/jewelry. I mostly fume and occasionally I use the flare intensive colors like the striking/reducing colors. Thanks for any advise regarding the 203s.

-j

[Mike_Aurelius]

Rosie - intense visible light CAN overpower the cones and rods in the back of the eye that detect light, color and shape. Over time, continually overpowering them will result in some vision loss - this is another reason why welders shades are so dark - to keep from damaging the sensitive parts of the eye with exceedingly bright light.

This is why we state in the product description of the 203's :


This filter is *NOT* designed for advanced techniques such as fuming, or with intensive flare colors without additional filtration such as our 7520 welders clip on flip up.

Shade 3.5 is simply NOT dark enough to protect the eye from visible light overload from fuming or intense flare colors.

I am going to be re-vamping the product line in the next week or so and one of the changes is going to be the AGW-200 filter - instead of a split lens, the AGW-200 is going to be a full coverage filter, like the AGW-203, except it will be available in shades 4, 5, 6, 8, and 10.

What you are probably going to want is an AGW-200 (full coverage) Shade 4.

[JTGlass]

sounds good.

[cumplesteed]

so working didy's with shade five flip downs has the exact same coverage as shade 5 auralenses until they fade?

[Mike_Aurelius]

Not exactly, didymium and AUR-92 are not equivalent filters, and our shade 5 is roughly equivalent to a welder's shade 4.

If you put a clip on welder's shade 6 over a pair of AUR-92/ACE glasses, THEN you'd have the exact same coverage as any of our AGW shade 5 filters.