eager to learn

[xtinabina22]

hey everyone!.... Love the support i've seen from everyone towards the newcomers. anways, there is so much information on this site it's amazing! One question I have that I couldnt find the answer to is: What type of a kiln schedule do I use for pipemaking. So far I am limited in skills so I have focused mainly on simple spoons. I use heavywall glass various sizes in diameter but all the same thickness. I just want the colors to blend into the clear a little more and for it not to crack obviously. Ive been keeping the temp at around 960-1000 degrees F. then I just slowly taper it down over a few hours. Also what is this process called that im doing? annealing only or fusing? I never know which to look it up as when I research it. ALSO, any advice for laying color inside the pipes. I am having trouble when I open it up aiming the flame deep enough to get a design as accurate as I'd like it to be near the mouthpiece.

Any suggestions related to anything you think is important... I'm all ears!
thanks
<3

[p.j.]

for simple spoons keep your kiln at 1050, then when you are done let the kiln hold for 30 min to 1hr at 1050(depending on how thick the work is). then just shut it off.

when you drop temp incrementally it is called ramping down.

use a small flame for delicate work near the mouthpiece.

you are only annealing you are not fusing. fusing is a much hotter kiln temp.

good luck, and welcome to the pot

[HOSS]

I just want the colors to blend into the clear a little more and for it not to crack obviously.

Getting the colors to blend into the clear is something that can really only happen while the piece is being worked in the torch and the glass is molten. The kiln can't help there, unless you're at fusing temps (which you don't want to be if you're making pipes.) If the colors are NOT melted in well, this can cause the piece to crack, even if the kiln part (annealing) is done right.


Ive been keeping the temp at around 960-1000 degrees F. then I just slowly taper it down over a few hours. Also what is this process called that im doing?

This is ALMOST an annealing process that you're doing, but you don't have the temps quite right. Its all right to leave the kiln at 1000 while you're working, but annealing temp is 1050. This is the magic number where boro is just on the edge of melting, but not quite hot enough for it to lose its shape. How long it needs to stay at 1050 and how fast you bring it down depends on the thickness of the glass, but for now you would probably be safe holding it at 1050 for 1 hour, then lower it over about the next 4 hours, if you have a digital controller. This will reduce the stress in the glass, and makes it stronger.



ALSO, any advice for laying color inside the pipes.

Unless you have already mastered making a plain fume spoon, and fume with outside color, my advice would be don't worry about laying the color on the inside, yet. Once you master the basics of shaping, and things like making holes and pushing bows, increasing the difficulty with more advanced techs like inside/out will be much easier and you wont waste as much expensive color in the process. When you're ready for it, theres a TON of info on it here. The search function is your friend!

Good luck! :peace:

[xtinabina22]

cool man i just pulled three pieces off the tube and put inthe the kiln i open the end up like a wine glass so i can put the colors in will this help me with cracking i usualy just do it all at once and then it cracks every time aftet i open it up pull my stringes then ley my color then i put it in the big flame to close it off the i crackes
so i put them in the kin before i lay my color hoping it will work i need to get mor glass tube 1 1\2 thick does any one know where to get it and what is a ood company for color i got north star it good but i dont know if there is better

[xtinabina22]

one more thing i burn my hand so fuckin bad every time when laying color because the way i got to hold the piece the flame goes right up it i think on getting a glove or somthing

[Pogo]

**you need to plug the blow tube while your workin.... that prevents hot air from travelin up the tube and scorchin your hand.... silly putty is becoming quite popular.

[xtinabina22]

my hand thanks you

[medicatedMELTDOWN]

hey & welcome- I would recommend Bandhu Dunham's books "Contemporary Lampworking" if you don't have them already.

if you tell us where you are located it would be easier to recommend a good distributor. there is generations glass, mountain glass art, glasscraft/winship etc etc......

As far as boro color companies I would say the top 2 biggest are Northstar and Glass Alchemy. then there is also Momka, TAG... etc
if you want links to any of their websites I'll post them.