3rd attempt

[D kid]

So I finally made my first stand up bub. Well not really this was my third attempt. First I didn't even get the tube in the can and had some major shaping problems and cracked in Half "game over".

Then tried to fix but it was a waste of time it cracked in the same place as last. Made a new can and this time I got the tube in the can but it was to long so when I went to push the bowl the tube bottomed out in the can and CRACK sooo bummed.

Third time a charm well I thought so until last night got the tube welded, pushed the bowl, attached the handle, blew the carb and garaged well my dam analog kiln was to hot because some where along the line the tube slumped in the kiln and attached the the inside of the wall on the can, kept cracking the side of the can I swear I tried to fix it for hours.

Thought I had it, and removed the blow tube on the handle. Worst idea ever as soon as I garaged that thing it cracked right where the tube was touching the can, of coarse I grabbed my large tweezers and tried to work it a little and the hole thing cracked just above my weld between the can and handle.

I really have learned a ton of things hope I can apply everything and do it right.

Well tonight tube pull and tomorrow a few reverse balls and some assy and I should be ready to do it again tomorrow night.

Any suggestions as to help make my life easer. Its not the best pic but here it is was in the kiln. It felt so good to see it together I felt like an artist for about a minute.

[Slow]

My advice: make at least one (successful) bub entirely with clear glass before wasting any more time/materials on a colored one. That way, the glass will be a bit more forgiving, and you can see exactly what's going on at each stage of construction. Good luck!

[Master Yoda]

I work my welds and then garage b4 doing anything, helps to even out the heat and release any stress around the weld. Then I go back remove bridges, pop carb, garage again then flatten, garage again then remove blow handle. With bubs I keep alot of stuff holding to make sure they work quick and easy. Try garaging b4 moving to any different part of the piece.

[D kid]

Here are a few pics of the 2nd attempt and 3rd I pitched the first attempt already.

Thanks for the Info I will attempt the clear can tonight your right it will be very helpful to see exactly what's happening.

I will use that process especially flattening the can after its attached to the handle. I would flatten the can before I attached to the handle that way I know how long to drop my tube in, but I like your idea better thank you both.

Also I know the colors suck (its not Christmas yet) I have a ton of these colors so if figure I would use stuff that's been laying around for a few years.

2nd attempt top 3rd bottom.

[Chubbles]

sorry it broke man, its lookin good.

[michaelangeloglass]

yea, make sure the connection between the clear rod is fused good.

If its a huge piece, as in your don't feel comfortable taking it off with the claw holder, you can anneal it with the tube still attached. Then the next day slowly heat just the connection between the clear and mouth piece .. burn it off and pop the hole from blowing in the carb etc...

Other wise make sure you do this...

your done working the head of the piece.

the connection is cold.

put the piece back in the kiln.

let it heat back up.. 5 min

then bring it out, pre heat claw holder and attach.

go right to burning it off the tube... quick!

dont heat anywhere else, just the mouth piece.


glass blowing is a very start on one end work to the other subject.

good luck

[J Howard]

My advice: make at least one (successful) bub entirely with clear glass before wasting any more time/materials on a colored one. That way, the glass will be a bit more forgiving, and you can see exactly what's going on at each stage of construction. Good luck!



yep!


also, when something comes out of garaging, don't just start a process, but bring UP the temp of the glass with a large bushy slightly hotter than annealing flame. this helps spread out the stress and improve your working time, as well as giving you a better heat base away from the seal or the flat bottom. if you drop below the stress point and then go back into the kiln, you're opening yourself up for a cracking issue