whats it called, how do you do it?

[OracleGlassArts]

Ive seen these around in the last year, they were called brain coral in miami, but no one knows a name for them in milwaukee.

i thought it was like a i/o honeycomb....someone else told me it was an implosion.

does anyone on here do these? im dying to know how theyre really made.

ps the artists murrini on this piece says "freak" idk if that helps

[Kato]

yup thats a freeek brain. I've been curious as to how to do these as well. but as far as i can tell its a fume implosion, or maybe an implosion done with some translucent colors. as far as the pattern.. its all how you lay it down. the thinner your stringers the tighter your implosion will look. idk hopefully someone will chime in who knows more.

[nicko0]

i call em line-combs

[Kevin Bumble]

Freek

[Kevin Bumble]

freek

[Kevin Bumble]

freek

[Lmwfy]

* Freeek

[Alfred]

Like honeycomb, instead of dots draw lines, after condensed, fume with gold on inside/back.

[mer]

blow a ball almost paper thin > pop hole and spray in a *tiny* amount of silver > close hole and add desired pattern to outside > shrink down until all air is removed > strike silver out to desired colors by achieving a low heat base repeatedly until colors come up.

[OracleGlassArts]

indeeeed it was freeek

[OracleGlassArts]

Like honeycomb, instead of dots draw lines, after condensed, fume with gold on inside/back.

how would that show up, i thought honeycombs and such worked because the dots/lines tug the fume to the surface or push it in...are you saying to use color rod for the pattern?

the owner said when he cleans it it clears up a lil on the inside where its orange, so it is hollow still.

[Shatner]

how would that show up, i thought honeycombs and such worked because the dots/lines tug the fume to the surface or push it in...are you saying to use color rod for the pattern?

the owner said when he cleans it it clears up a lil on the inside where its orange, so it is hollow still.

I have some Freeek in my collection. The brains are all very condensed. Almost to being solid. The reason your friend notices a color change is because light is being transmitted, not reflected.

[Campy]

^^Very interesting Mer...always always wondered how Freeek did those brain marble implosions...Gotta give it a try sometime.

[AYHEM]

ionic tubing can produce similar results, i saw at the GCGG in birken

but thats a bit more colourful

[stackerson]

just as the rest of the crew pointed out...that is a freek brain marble. he does massive amounts of those things. ill try to dig up a photo i saw with some of his prep. had like 50-100 of those things chilling on his station. good luck with your quest.

[dew]

i sometimes achieve a similar look when i use thin stringers of amber purple and do a tube implosion. it's different, but thought i'd add that little tidbit of info as i find the outcomes can be very similar.

[Pogo]

FREEEK (http://www.glasspipes.org/Freeek) (<-Proper spelling) is among my top 5 faves... he's got some ridiculous work in some of the shops here in ATX I've had my eye on for minute now....


Also interesting. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freeek!)

[OracleGlassArts]

i sometimes achieve a similar look when i use thin stringers of amber purple and do a tube implosion. it's different, but thought i'd add that little tidbit of info as i find the outcomes can be very similar.

madhatter said something like that, do you have a picture?

[Alfred]

http://www.glasspipes.org/Images/FullSize/000150000/Img150776_DSC03369.JPG

Honeycomb thread compilation (http://www.talkglass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4584&highlight=Honeycomb)

[Albino Sasquatch]

woah super sik so these are done on tube like mer said with the fume on the inside with design on the outside then super condenced till all the air is out. freeek n amazing!!..lol

[Bo Diddles]

Freeek.

[OracleGlassArts]

new desktop backround for sure, thats freeekin beautiful

[ralph]

Yup, this is going up as my desktop background! Sick.

[stackerson]

totally the pic i was thinkin of. thanks for the find alfred...beat me to it.

[OracleGlassArts]

still not getting these to work out....i think i got close once, but it always distorts. anyone else trying?

is it like a flower where you lay down each layer, or do you draw the whole design on a big maria and then only implode once?

[hashmasta-kut]

by achieving a low heat base repeatedly? care to elaborate please mer?

[Dom]

Yea you heat the peace just enough to strike the silver out. And repeat.

[nodice]

They're honeycombs. I'd bet he does a blow in or blow out with a silver color like amber purple instead of fuming.....................

[OracleGlassArts]

They're honeycombs. I'd bet he does a blow in or blow out with a silver color like amber purple instead of fuming.....................

thats what i first thought of...aventurine or something in the middle

the implosions are almost working...i needed a bigger maria and now i need to do thinner stringers and have a picture of the pattern drawn out in front of me :bangHead:

[The Lorax]

They're honeycombs. I'd bet he does a blow in or blow out with a silver color like amber purple instead of fuming.....................

looks like kiln struck fume to me , could be AP though

[Aymie]

I am pretty sure they are just fume...they have no more color than the ones Adam G does...and they are just fume.

[justiceglass]

I've been trying these too. I cant get anything that looks even similar. I spray in that "tiny" amount of silver and by the time i get done condensing it either disappears or is not blue or purple by any means. I tried striking it, letting the kiln drop to 950 and then back to 1100 many times throughout the day with no noticable striking of any silver(maybe i burned it away?). im using a mirage and have done fume implosions that come out great.

im starting to wonder if this is not a blowin myself. Every fumer honeycomb that i've ever done has come out whitish because of the silver and how it strikes. It also has certain characteristics that these do not. For instance, the side walls of the cells (where my dots soak in)of my fume honeycomb are sharper looking. they come to a point and are not rounded like the design is in these. The design in these freeek brains looks more soft like what you would get from laying cleer on the inside like an iso.

would love to hear more opinions on this

:bangHead:

[N~DARK]

They are sitll hollow on the inside. Look close at the pic and you can see the dom in the center. Yes it's Fume on the inside, Clear design on the outside. But Freeek does it a certain way to get them to pop! If you really want to know how to get them to come out like his, than get your ass to one of his classes.

[Din]

Those are completely gold and silver fume. If, when making a honeycomb (of any style) you prevent the inner wall from creasing, your design will "pop" more in the end. Condense slowly, but at the point that you see your outer pattern, dots or line, pushing into the inside of the ball, take it out of the flame, pause a few seconds, and puff lightly until the inside of the ball is smooth again, and resume condensing. This will also help your honeycombs to have more depth at less wall thicknesses.

[Mtn-Burn]

Din is killin it. Nailed it. couldn't have said it better +1 :chilling:

[rockstar glassworks]

I tried them as tube implosions... decorate the inside of a bubble (like a 32 or 44 medium wall) with lot's o' thin sguiggles and condense until it's almost a marble.

The trick is not to go completley solid like a marble...get it melted down good and kinda marver it a bit on theback edges to get the clear space in the middle.

After reading a bit of the responses...I'll try again with proper honeycomb technique and see what happens. It seemed way to simple at the time to just do these as tube implosions.



http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu178/rockstarglass/windowspoons1.jpg

[Alfred]

The color of your fume honeycombs and the ease of striking them is very dependent on what brand of clear your using!!! Simax gives the best color range BUT is the most difficult to get to strike, The Schott boro-artistic and pyrex strike much easier but the fume tends more to the white cottony look. Take a good look at the link I posted ( in red bold print) below the pic, all the info on honeycombs should be in that thread!!

[Alfred]

I prefer to do a majority of the striking at the torch. I let the piece cool down til I can't see the red glow when I hold it in the shade( under my bench) then heat it up till it's almost white hot then repeat the process, a few times, letting it garage in the kiln in between strikings,until I get the growth I'm looking for.

[nicko0]

for fumed combs like these often i dont want them struck before i apply because they are gonna strike plenty during application, maybe a little extra time on polishing the punty mark to get the strike just right.

[Aymie]

When you get it condensed, heat it up completely, then spray it with a bottle of purified water. Repeat. Some say this tech is BS, but I have seen it work and use it myself. It seems to help keep the glass in the center just the right temp for striking. You can watch it grow a bit each time you reheat and spray.

[Shatner]

When you get it condensed, heat it up completely, then spray it with a bottle of purified water. Repeat. Some say this tech is BS, but I have seen it work and use it myself. It seems to help keep the glass in the center just the right temp for striking. You can watch it grow a bit each time you reheat and spray.

Can't tell if serious. :shifty:

[slave]

Adam G's
http://www.glasspipes.org/Gal19689_Honeycomb_etc_gallery.asp

[Shatner]

Adam G's
http://www.glasspipes.org/Gal19689_Honeycomb_etc_gallery.asp

Yep. Verry similar. All fume. Freeek doesn't just use a dot pattern. It's interweaved spirals. I'm holding a Freeek piece right now.