Winterizing you stuff, and glass temps, breakage, adjustments what-have-you

[funksizzle]

So, I live in Minnesnowda. Ahh snap, blew my cover, now your all gonna break in and take my thrift junk, my wacky little parts, doohickies, and my milliondollar notes.

So it gets like up to -20, or down to whatever way you look at it so.

I noticed there's a few peeps from snowda, duluth, canada, etc.

1. What temps do you store, boro, soft, and inbetween. Torches, tanks, tools?

I was going to bring glass, tanks, torch inside, and make cases and stuff, but I even worry a little bit about the short trip to the garage.

2. What's the lowest temp you'd heat your shop up to, and does this effect how long you wave in flame, cool them etc.. As of now, I don't have an annealer, I keep seeing dopedoggy deals for 29x24's but there for 220v. Even with crockpot, I'm weary.

Just wondering how you guys run things, and I suppose some of you live in a shed warhol style, making it easier too. I mean work all night ! Everynight!

[Julian]

I've had a shop in the same Arctic region as you for 10-12 years, ranging from outside as it gets (shed) to an attached garage or basement.

for question 1:

- Your raw glass is not going to be harmed by sub zero weather. It doesn't make any difference, I've stored plenty of glass at outside temperature for years and it makes no difference to the glass.
Tanks are made to withstand cryogenic temperatures and lots of moisture. I've never had a problem operating a propane or oxygen tank as far down as -30. Of course, working at less than -5 is pretty miserable or expensive, depending on your heat situation.
I've had no problems with torches or tools and the cold. I've only used GTTs and a Herbert Arnold in Arctic conditions, but one would expect other torches would be as durable.

2:
If your glass is cooling down from 1000 or so down to somewhere closer to room temperature, it doesn't make a huge difference if the ambient temp is 10 or 70. Regardless, you should hurry up and get a kiln. The only problems I've ever had with kilns and the cold are that digital controllers feel pretty faint in the morning before they've warmed up.

The lowest temp you'd heat your shop up to is whatever you're comfortable working in. I'm fine with about 35. If you truly have decent ventilation though, warming up the air in your shop doesn't work since you're cycling out the air in your shop so frequently. Radiant heat sources work better in this situation.

I do not live in a shed warhol style or work all night. One thing about the winter is that it is far better to work in the paltry day than at night - that small bit of extra warmth and the chance of sunlight goes a long way.

In summary, I'm getting the hell out of here for the winter.

[fudgecicle]

I don't have any advice for your cold problem, but maybe look into getting a space heater. They are cheap to buy and run. They'll heat a good size workspace up in an hour and keep it ambient the whole time. It may even help keep glass from cooling to quickly.

[hashmasta-kut]

just dont have a cold breeze blowing through your area maybe. cold temps are mainly a problem for the hands i think, cold glass is cold to handle.

[gn0me]

Heated standing mats are great for working in the winter. As mentioned above your ventilation can have serious adverse effects on your shop temperature... One way to counteract this is to plumb in your intake air to somewhere near your bench, and to set a heater in the intake air's path. Working in a garage is cold in Colorado, but in MN I could only imagine O_o

[funksizzle]

Thanks guys, ya I got a good big propane heater for working, and the hands. I just got a hothead propylene setup while I learn, work up to minor, and eventually a bigger torch for boro so ventillation is not gonna be a issue.
I'm waiting to memorize just about everything, practice in the head, quizzing myself mad, vocab, all that jazz, cause we all know wasting anything is mucho bad.
I was actually thinking about one the hydroxy's but can't find a seller, or details for the 20lpm one a guy's using for boro on youtube which would be pretty nice. The one he's got I suppose would be comparable to a minor, 4000 degree flame. Time will tell on this technology, and eventually everyone will probably switch over. Give it a few more years for people to work out. Takes heavy electricity.

Anyways I'm surprised to hear that it doesn't make a difference on glass.
Thanks a lot Julian, fudgecicle, hashmasta, gnome. I think I might bring everything in, but was wondering about the shock walking to garage, call me paranoid. I got softglass. Thanks

I'd wait until your controller warms up before you turn it on julian.

I thought of building a insulated box to put over kiln for with a gap between kiln and fireproof insulation of some sort like frax or maybe just regular, put it on at night and it will take less time to heat up and protect your elements, I need to get one first. Probably not too bad of a idea, but you won't even be there! O yah, fireproof something on the ground. It would pay off in the electricity as well as time.

[The Bigles]

the coldest temp i ever blew glass in minnesota was negative 20something. in a shed with moderate ventilation and one propane heater. also a 30 pack of PBR.

[fudgecicle]

the coldest temp i ever blew glass in minnesota was negative 20something. in a shed with moderate ventilation and one propane heater. also a 30 pack of PBR.

Lol, *insert natty ice joke here*

[Julian]

Thanks for the tip. I would wait until the controller warms up to turn it on too, except for how kilns tend to run overnight and be on when you come out the next day.


I think I might bring everything in, but was wondering about the shock walking to garage, call me paranoid. I got softglass. Thanks

Still not understanding what you mean by 'the shock walking to garage'. Are you talking about carrying hot pieces from your workspace to somewhere else, like a kiln that's inside? If not, what do you mean? Anyway, if you can store your stuff inside at normal room temperature, there's no reason not too.

Yes, soft glass is more touchy about ambient temperature, drafts etc. If you're not making anything larger than an inch or two, though I don't think you'd notice.

[Icarus]

I don't have any advice for your cold problem, but maybe look into getting a space heater. They are cheap to buy and run. They'll heat a good size workspace up in an hour and keep it ambient the whole time. It may even help keep glass from cooling to quickly.

Once again, all of these sort of run up against the problem of "you're heating the air, but you're also immediately pulling out the air to replenish it with fresh (cold) air".

Two things that have worked wonders for keeping me warm are an overhead quartz radiant heater (if only heats what it's light shines on) and a pair of mickey mouse boots (thanks to Emmett for that one) with a good pair of cotton socks.

A case of Grain Belt couldn't hurt either.

[brettodie]

overhead quartz heater 2 of them one for behind you shining on your ass. the other overhead shining on your bench,to get tools and glass warm. heated floor pads also work wonders.

[Shatner]

Thanks guys, ya I got a good big propane heater for working, and the hands. I just got a hothead propylene setup while I learn, work up to minor, and eventually a bigger torch for boro so ventillation is not gonna be a issue.
I'm waiting to memorize just about everything, practice in the head, quizzing myself mad, vocab, all that jazz, cause we all know wasting anything is mucho bad.
I was actually thinking about one the hydroxy's but can't find a seller, or details for the 20lpm one a guy's using for boro on youtube which would be pretty nice. The one he's got I suppose would be comparable to a minor, 4000 degree flame. Time will tell on this technology, and eventually everyone will probably switch over. Give it a few more years for people to work out. Takes heavy electricity.

Anyways I'm surprised to hear that it doesn't make a difference on glass.
Thanks a lot Julian, fudgecicle, hashmasta, gnome. I think I might bring everything in, but was wondering about the shock walking to garage, call me paranoid. I got softglass. Thanks

I'd wait until your controller warms up before you turn it on julian.

I thought of building a insulated box to put over kiln for with a gap between kiln and fireproof insulation of some sort like frax or maybe just regular, put it on at night and it will take less time to heat up and protect your elements, I need to get one first. Probably not too bad of a idea, but you won't even be there! O yah, fireproof something on the ground. It would pay off in the electricity as well as time.

I bolded an important part. What exactly do you mean by that? I hope you don't think that you won't need ventilation. :twitch:

[funksizzle]

or Better yet beer 30. $7.50 for 30. My first one, drank 1/2, instant headache. I no longer drink, and never really did because it's for sissy pansys.

For the shock I just meant walking out from 70 to -10 and the sudden temperature change. I suppose I be all right with some blankie's.

Ya, On a strict cheese budget as far as the quartz heaters are concerned, but thanks for the tips. I've worked in freezers and coolers in Minnesota, hands frozen everyday so any heater like the one we got is good enough for me. Sometimes, after a smoke break outside, you'd go in the 0 degree freezer to warm up! No longer smoke just vape. Minnesota ain't nothin compared to Canada though, I'm lucky. But sheet, compared to california, I'm pretty sure California is just made up to taunt everyone else. Let's make a poll guys. Who all thinks California is made up to make you jealous?

[funksizzle]

For a hot head, don't need ventillation. I'm a hippie, but not an organic type, the type that doesn't need organic because I still care for my health. Do we really even need vitamins, take a wallmart multi to be one safe side and be healthier than those spending who knows how much sorry mother nature I still enjoy the plants. I got the garage door cracked now, and other door open, but in the winter maybe just the reg door cracked.

[funksizzle]

Of course I'd like ventillation, and when I get anything bigger than hot head I'll construct one from those metal tubs, and stuff. I'm reallly cheap, the type that reads the back, ingredients, fine print, misses 5 sales on it, but still thought about it for a few hours, then finds it on sale 5 years later for the price of a can of dog food. You know the type main.

[Icarus]

For my mothers sake (since your location says that you are handcuffed to her), please get yourself some ventilation before you light your torch. You'd be surprised how much cheaper it is than a new set of lungs and possibly central nervous system.

[yourhighness]

Considering how many times I've thrown bottles of butane down these glass tubes, that gets it pretty cold. Way colder than it would ever be in any part of the USA/Canada.......

You'll be fine!

[Shatner]

For a hot head, don't need ventillation. I'm a hippie, but not an organic type, the type that doesn't need organic because I still care for my health. Do we really even need vitamins, take a wallmart multi to be one safe side and be healthier than those spending who knows how much sorry mother nature I still enjoy the plants. I got the garage door cracked now, and other door open, but in the winter maybe just the reg door cracked.


Of course I'd like ventillation, and when I get anything bigger than hot head I'll construct one from those metal tubs, and stuff. I'm reallly cheap, the type that reads the back, ingredients, fine print, misses 5 sales on it, but still thought about it for a few hours, then finds it on sale 5 years later for the price of a can of dog food. You know the type main.

Uh... yes, you do need ventilation! You seem to be getting in over your head. If you're melting glass, even 'only' clear on a hothead, you need ventilation!

[Icarus]

Are you sure your ears were hearing what you think that you heard? Maybe your perception was altered from all them fumes? It can take laying down patiently for a few hours to get back to thinking in a straight line. You actually want to stay in the light with these fume headaches and let things take their course. I'm just funking around. Town in my lowryder bicycle. Youre just a Wallyworld hater! Didn't walmart raise you, nourish you, hold your hand while you were peeing, smily rollback put an arm around your shoulder and tell you that you could sleep in the parkinglot if you decide to be a good boy and not scare the customers off with your strange foot odor.


This is precisely why you want ventilation. Those fume headaches seem to be affecting your ability to write an intelligible sentence.

[Julian]

If you look at the flame from a hot head, it is about the same size as a minor burner. Except, it doesn't have an oxygen supply and therefore takes more from the atmosphere. Why would one require ventilation and not the other? And then, soft glass melting produces plenty of fumes, just the same as boro.

I don't think the Wal-Mart multivitamin is going to help. Might as well comment, all the vitamins at WM have artificial colors and total crap in them - including the prenatal ones, I thought that was a nice touch.

Anyway, we don't care about all of that. If you have actual questions about how to set up a safe studio and how to be as non-stupid as possible, just say so.

[Greymatter Glass]

1. If you're burning gases of any type you need ventilation. If you refuse to abide by common sense and follow advice you will not be helped here, period. We will ridicule you, scorn you, and make you feel unwelcome. We're not getting paid to help you, so we're not going to make it up and pad the advice.

YOU NEED VENTILATION EVEN FOR A HOTHEAD TORCH

If you don't know what ventilation is, I suggest you search the forums for ventilation threads.


2. If you're going to use a heater make sure it is IR / Radiant type. There are electric (quartz and parabolic reflector type) and propane (sunflowers, honeycombs) types. Make sure it says IR and/or Radiant on the box somewhere. A space heater will not work.

3. You do not need an insulated box for a kiln, a kiln IS an insulated box. You will need a kiln, especially working soft glass.


....

and for those following this that have trouble with kilns in the morning.... if it's just the "cold" error, you can jump start it with a lighter under the TC for a few seconds, that will trick it into thinking it's warm enough to run, then the elements will take over.

Also, homedepot.com had the best deals on heated floor mats when I got mine... worth every penny even in relatively warm winter climates like NM... cold concrete floors suck the energy right out of you.

[funksizzle]

Aight. Aight. Chill. Thanks for getting me to get this going yo. I'll get my cheapass to figure something out for now until I can get my own shop, and actually modify it. I just got my propylene here, and I'm patient so. I am one who preaches the dangers of combustion. I also exercise and take mulit's which Julian says are fake and I've heard the same thing. I am a straight Hippie. I got dirt on my arm to prove it.
I also have blended quite a bit of fine powders in my work history, and I was always the one telling others to get there dust masks on, and was always nit picky about artificial ingredients, which can go through dust masks so I know where you're coming from, and taking extra procedures, wearing respirator a lot of the day.
Thing is that I can't go through the ceiling, and the windows do not open. I suppose I could move by the door, setup walls for the flame to my setup on saw horse and I'll be good. Can anyone see anything wrong with mirrors for walls, I've seen videos with people doing this before. Can this have a negative outcome for a young glassblower, I don't really use them much inside, and bet I got one I could use? They'd be fire proof right?
I suppose I gotta invest in one anyway so, I'll get er done. Thanks for getting tough on me about this.

Also, is the heater for spark reasons, or fumes? Funny story about my buds house that the peeps who got on me about this would probably think is funny then. He's heating his attic with a propane heater, his cat litter box smells, so he sprays a ton of crap, and covers that with a inscense, and the propane blast at you. I would have been fine with the cat poop particles in my lungs.

Julian, I got plenty of organic crank jokes, but they are fine where they're at.

Thanks for getting tough on me about this guys. I care for your health also, and appreciate the help you have given a lot.

Greymatter, I would appreciate if you changed the color of your extrabold statements, I'm just kidding dude

[menty666]

Bottom line is that if you can't set up ventilation, you shouldn't use that space.

As for mirrors as walls, if you hit it with a lick of flame it's likely to shock and shatter. With a hothead it's less likely to happen, but I'm just throwing it out there. I wouldn't consider them fireproof.

[Julian]

The issue with a typical space heater is that it is meant to heat the air in a room. When ventilation sufficient for flamework is in use, the air in the room is being cycled out and replaced with fresh air too often for one of those heaters to make a difference. So, heaters that shine heat on you work a lot better in these conditions.

Sure, we can keep the organic crank jokes for later, as something to be looking forward to.

[nickglassdood]

dood your set up sounds sick.... i bet your bustin out the sick og phattybumbalatty within 2-3 weeks....... def use blankets keep that sick sheet wizzzarm kid

cali is commie conspiracy//////

[funksizzle]

I know, laugh it up. At least I haven't wasted a bunch of oxy and boro learning how to blow a spoon. Also gives me time to get everything down pat before I delve into majors and boro anyways. I'm too cheap, and I'd just half-arse everything and never learn right because I'd be like aaaaa my money is melting!

So, I decided to opt against squirrel cage blowers most likely and just go for a 1575 cfm 8 in similar to the one at Home Depot in other threads so I have a big enough one for big torches later on plus I got like 80 bucks from something I returned at Northern Tool is this a decent choice here? http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200007224_200007224?cm_sp=Upsells-_-Top%20Sellers-_-Product%20Page

I'll also hook it up to my router speed controller, hooked up to my foot pedal on/off switch. I'll go to a department store and get a feed tub, cut a hole, mount this on top, get a 8in to 6in reducer and run it out the door keeping it level.

I think I'm lucky enough to have a radiant heater in the basement that I can bring out to the garage when I blow. So this type of heat is different and won't be sucked up if I am not mistaken. Otherwise I could run the space heater until I blow, shut it off, turn back on close door between.

Thanks I appreciate the help.

[menty666]

I'd need to look, but I think most folks recommend against ducting an inline blower because you'll burn out the motor pretty fast sucking the heat past it. Typically you'd see them wall mounted with side walls on the work area to reduce the area it's cycling. If you're doing the hood, you really want the squirrel cage fan instead.

[Julian]

Right, those gable fans aren't meant to be ducted from what I recall too.

There's no guarantee it would work with a speed control, either as only certain types of motors can function like that.

[funksizzle]

Yep. The speed controller has been tested on may things, and it works, but loses where it's at and gradually goes down. Thanks a lot. So if it came down to it, 465cfm 6 in squirrel cage would probably be the lowest I should go huh. I was thinking that from the start but reading other threads made it sound like 465cfm wouldn't be enough. I'm trying not to do any wiring or my pops will hound me about the wiring, and fires even though half of his wired outlets are out!

[Icarus]

456 will not be enough. Unless you are planning on having a 2'x2' bench. Please, do yourself a favor and buy "Contemporary lampworking" by Bandhu Dunham. I will save you a bunch of money in the long run, as all of this is pretty much covered in there. Or at least it will give you a strong basis of understanding so you can from better questions.

[brettodie]

call a scrap company. they have furnace fans all day,you can normally get one for less then $50. no 465 cfm is not enough. 1500-2500 and youll be in the right range.

if your gonna be cheap get one like this: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200461071_200461071


dont use duct on this type of fan.

[funksizzle]

Just joined the library, should have contemporary someday here. I know, new guy stuff. Thanks alot Guys. I bowdown to the W once again. I apologize that I wasn't born with a half worked sherlock and a Carebear Zippo. I got that when I was three. I seen the 1575 in other threads through wall, but didn't really think of the heat much. The electricity in garage does worry me a little, and the furnace fans take up like 1600 watts startup, 800 run leaving no room for an annealer, or 1-2 oxycon so that was another consideration in my mind.
Thank yas guys and gals.

[cc_bob]

This is precisely why you want ventilation. Those fume headaches seem to be affecting your ability to write an intelligible sentence.

Funksizzle, I have to say I agree with Icarus here, your posts read as if they were written by Rainman:crazy: Slow down and read what you are writing before you click on the submit button. Also, feel free to include some white space (separate paragraphs) to make it easier to read.

Those with the answers to your questions will be more likely to reply if they don't have to sift through the crap. I'm trying to say this in the most positive way:D

[smolder holder]

Funksizzle, I have to say I agree with Icarus here, your posts read as if they were written by Rainman:crazy: Slow down and read what you are writing before you click on the submit button. Also, feel free to include some white space (separate paragraphs) to make it easier to read.

Those with the answers to your questions will be more likely to reply if they don't have to sift through the crap. I'm trying to say this in the most positive way:D

I was starting to think you had completely fried your brain already (maybe you have). I haven't fully understood a single one of your posts.

I thought headdi was confusing sometimes :D

[nafglass]

I'd wait until your controller warms up before you turn it on julian.


Good Advice! maybe get a pre-heater just for your controller Julian!

[Tzonis]

I was starting to think you had completely fried your brain already (maybe you have). I haven't fully understood a single one of your posts.

I thought headdi was confusing sometimes :D

That makes three of us....... also funksizzle, if you have dirt on your arms then take a shower.

[funksizzle]

Update

I got a vent system worked out for the hothead from a squirrel cage blower, a huge feed tub, that worked good running out the door along with a dust mask.

The fan was weaker than I planned for, but now I ran ducting down from the tub opening rendering the tub kind of useless, and have kind of closed down for the winter.

I'm getting a cricket, and am trying to figure out if I should replace my fan or just add another fan to it.

I might Run two 8in ducting down from the tub with two fans on top and build a micro hood for those tubes to fit into.
I'm thinking Maybe a turkey roaster pan?

Or I can figure out how to smooth talk into letting me put it a vent out the window at the right moment when I notice heavy signs of positive actions.

O and I ended up taking a shower. Peace to all the homies in the rouge

[Zed]

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/an-qCKQbuJu4h747/blade_runner_1982_eyes/

A heated suit like the Asian guy has would be badass. You could probably run it off a hairdryer.

[funksizzle]

DOPE!

Ya, I'm pretty sure I'm just gonna get down on building a 10x12 shed with 16 in fans in the window, a wood furnace/fireplace, intake, and some other sweet stuff.

I'll grab free firewood off craigslist, and get toasty. They'll probably have everything else I'll need too if I'm what? PATIENT! Patient and Patience seems like a coincidence, tricky eh?

If I get too toasty, I'll get buck. Maybe make a leatard out of one them high temp space age material pads that abr's got! Also, one of them hats with the ear flaps.

I gotta smooth talk my dad when I suspect he's gottin some, I'll keep the smoothtalk operation. I'll keep you updated as to pimping my dad out for a shed.

I'm getting down on my plans, forms, electricity, designs, etc. Should be good to build as soon as snow melts, and my dad gets macked. Once I get a maybe, it'll work itself out from there.

[hashmasta-kut]

i got an insulated set of coveralls and electric boots. not too shabby.

[ShttrdSpctrm]

the coldest temp i ever blew glass in minnesota was negative 20something. in a shed with moderate ventilation and one propane heater. also a 30 pack of PBR.



My bucket was frozen solid yesterday when I went out. I didn't stay out there too long. I shoulda got a 30 pack.

[vetropod]

Doug, don't hate me - I was working without ventilation today. But the whole time I was rocking the needle-fine flame. Didn't feel like stoking the wood stove up today, so just bundled up and sucked it up.

Here's a suggestion for everyone, I highly recommend these - they're made to insulate your hand from hot glass, so it stands to reason that they also keep heat in. Anyways, I wear a pair of these throughout the winter - keeps my hands warmer, but still get a good grip on my glass. Plus they're occasionally handy for opening up the wood stove, grabbing things out of the over, etc.

http://www.glasscraftinc.com/home2/gla/page_10085_557/kevlar_glove___knit_small_fingerless_kevlar_glove_ .html
http://www.glasscraftinc.com/home2/gla/page_10084_557/kevlar_glove___knit_large_fingerless_kevlar_glove_ .html

[funksizzle]

Ya thanks for the tips. There was other good threads on shop heat to.

Wafting your hands like a hobo was workin for a while, but my brain, creativity, and mobility were shutting down.
When you can hardly move your arm, you actually gotta darn near tell it where to go which limits everything else.
When you can't rotate your wrists around, it's time to improve shop heat, do some research and prepare for the spring. I'm learnin little by little, but by spring I should have the lab stocked, materials layed out with a plan to build the shed in like a week, learn more from everyone, and be ready to apply myself full fledge. Getting into making my own graphite tools, and various unique custom tools for my style so I got time for this kind of stuff. Study.Study.Study.

[menty666]

Doug, don't hate me - I was working without ventilation today. But the whole time I was rocking the needle-fine flame. Didn't feel like stoking the wood stove up today, so just bundled up and sucked it up.

Here's a suggestion for everyone, I highly recommend these - they're made to insulate your hand from hot glass, so it stands to reason that they also keep heat in. Anyways, I wear a pair of these throughout the winter - keeps my hands warmer, but still get a good grip on my glass. Plus they're occasionally handy for opening up the wood stove, grabbing things out of the over, etc.

http://www.glasscraftinc.com/home2/gla/page_10085_557/kevlar_glove___knit_small_fingerless_kevlar_glove_ .html
http://www.glasscraftinc.com/home2/gla/page_10084_557/kevlar_glove___knit_large_fingerless_kevlar_glove_ .html


I had sleeves like that, and the problem I ran into was that punties would catch and get twisted up in the palm. Drove me bonkers.

[Master Yoda]

for what it's worth I know that I need to take the knobs off of my national 3 and readjust their tightness just about every time the season changes (It doesn't leave my studio which has 0 insulation). They end up being either to tight too tight to turn or too loosey goosey. This is my first winter with a GTT but I haven't noticed any changes with the action of the knobs yet (had it since may).

While we are on the topic I have been somewhat worried about the effect of prolonged humidity exposure on my GTT, it's not actually outside so it doesn't get direct exposure to the elements, but it is exposed to outside air year round. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

[Julian]

GTTs are stainless steel throughout, so humidity isn't a problem. I've used GTTs in very cold and outsidey shops without an issue for a long time.

Menty, maybe you need to clean off and round your punty ends! I know what you mean though, I've twisted up my gloves and it's annoying.

[Julian]

Well, speaking of the winter it basically never happened this year (yet?).

I can't believe it will be 40 here again on Monday. Normal temp is about 10. We've had about 12 inches of snow total, and usually there's been 55 inches by this time of year. I'm out blowing glass at night on Jan. 8th, and don't even feel cold.

[Shatner]

Yes, this is an incredibly mild winter. We've seen freezing temps once and it was overnight. Average temp here this year is high.

[TlkQ]

But as soon as we get one decent snowfall all the lunatics will start screaming "So much for global warming! Har har har"

[Julian]

Totally, I don't see them speaking up at all when we're in a heat wave + a drought in the middle of winter, but one snow storm in Tennessee in February and they'll be ranting about Al Gore.

[hashmasta-kut]

Well, speaking of the winter it basically never happened this year (yet?).

I can't believe it will be 40 here again on Monday. Normal temp is about 10. We've had about 12 inches of snow total, and usually there's been 55 inches by this time of year. I'm out blowing glass at night on Jan. 8th, and don't even feel cold.


its crazy warm on the coast of B.C. too. Usually get a few weeks of below freezing temperatures, but i dont think thats gonna happen. nice warm feet anyhow.

[J Howard]

1. doesn't matter

2. i don't heat my shop, i use heat lamps for my feet. (i live in western NY)