sport climbing instruction/glass instruction or material trade

[Glassroots]

looking to expand my climbing skills into sport climbing. I have all my own gear and read some books on the subject of sport. I have done a lot of top roping over the past years and recently climbed a 5.11 a but consider myself a strong 5.10 climber on top rope.

Looking to trade my years of experience and knowledge of glass technique and equipment and even materials. Eventually would like to do trad but need to start somewhere so I can lead at some point. Not trying to rush into this, I just want to get going with some hands on! I'm in central NC, willing to drive of course or meet at the crag. I also have a climbing wall in my shop. much love! J

btw I have posted this on some climbing forums but thought I would try here too because I have seem some of you talking about climbing before.

[Chris Juedemann]

Have you been up to Ship Rock by Grandfather? There are a lot of 5.5-5.9 routes that are multi pitch and get very exposed. They are great to get comfortable leading. Theres always a group from ASU heading there, maybe check their rec site.

[Preinkarnation]

No offense, but I'm confused... you have a wall in your shop, you climb solid 5.10, and you dont sport climb... just never seen anyone get to that level without doing some leading. Anyway, with that level of skill you should have no probs getting your lead-on in short order. Just takes some getting used to things, and a few skills if you dont have the rope/gear knowledge yet. But do it safe (like you are trying) and have someone show you the ropes (no pun intended). I would love to help out (and love to get some glass skills - I'm a noob, just turned on my own torch in my garage for the first time last night - but I'm out here in Portland so its a little bit far... but if you ever come out this way give me a buzz. Smith Rock State Park is considered (by some) to be the birthplace of Sport climbing in the US (with enough trad routes sprinkle around to make people happy).

Do some 5.6 sport routes and then just just keep working your way up. I'm pretty much the same level as you (solid 5.10, ticking 5.11) and I will sport lead a 9 any day and hit some 10s now and then (or all day in the gym), and I'll trad lead 8's.

Does your gym have a lead wall? I would think you would do best finding someone at the gym to take you out.

And if anyone in Ptown wants to offer this deal up I would totally jump. I actually help teach climbing (rock and mountain) for a local mountaineering club, so I have some experience here - but can't blow a decent bubble for shit ;).

[SNYD]

Come to Utah!

[Glassroots]

No offense, but I'm confused... you have a wall in your shop, you climb solid 5.10, and you dont sport climb... just never seen anyone get to that level without doing some leading.


I think I could lead pretty easily but everyone tells me to work with someone more experienced than me and I don't know anyone willing to devote some time. I guess I just never pushed that hard before cause I am scared of messing up the safety aspects but the books I'm reading are making me more confident. I just dont want to get ahead of myself until someone shows me the mistakes before I make them.


Do some 5.6 sport routes and then just just keep working your way up. I'm pretty much the same level as you (solid 5.10, ticking 5.11) and I will sport lead a 9 any day and hit some 10s now and then (or all day in the gym), and I'll trad lead 8's. good points, I am looking for a gym now but am also setting up anchors in my shop to practice clipping quickdraws and cleaning them.


Does your gym have a lead wall? I would think you would do best finding someone at the gym to take you out.

thanks for the advice.

[Glassroots]

Come to Utah!
If thats an invite I definitely will!

[Glassroots]

Have you been up to Ship Rock by Grandfather? There are a lot of 5.5-5.9 routes that are multi pitch and get very exposed. They are great to get comfortable leading. Theres always a group from ASU heading there, maybe check their rec site.

thanks for the help, I have not been there but do go to table rock at linville gorge regularly. I'll definitely check it out!

[Chris Juedemann]

thanks for the help, I have not been there but do go to table rock at linville gorge regularly. I'll definitely check it out!

Hit me up if you decide to come up. I have a cabin about 6 miles from there.

[Glassroots]

And if anyone in Ptown wants to offer this deal up I would totally jump. I actually help teach climbing (rock and mountain) for a local mountaineering club, so I have some experience here - but can't blow a decent bubble for shit

How far are from this?

turkey monster,oregon

[Glassroots]

Hit me up if you decide to come up. I have a cabin about 6 miles from there.

thanks man, that's solid.

[$Y$TM]

If you ever get to Cali hit me up. I used to climb all the time but my partners have since had kids and they are never available. I usually spend a few weeks at Joshua Tree every year. One of my favorite places. That and Tuolumne.

[Glassroots]

Hey All, So by happenstance, I found someone to climb sport with, heading up to West Virginia this weekend to learn and practice as much as I can. They aren't even interested in glass, just helping a noob out. AWESOME!!!

Just wanted to say that if anyone out west is interested in learning glass techs from me, I am still down to trade, and maybe trad will be the next monster to slay. I know many techs and have been teaching for 8 years.

$y$TM if your serious, I will be in touch kind sir., or let me know when your going out. Should have some good skills by summer!

Much love, J

[Preinkarnation]

Awesome, glad you found someone to show you the ropes (slight pun intended). And of course if you wanna come out and play at Smith Rocks, OR hit me up. Season is pretty much over now. Just got back from a great weekend. Smith is the sport climbing arena but has a fair amount of trad as well - which I would be happy to do some schoolin for ya. But like I say its pretty much over until May/June now.