!HELP! Glass problem solvers needed!

[FizZle]

So i posted this in my work thread as well....but i wanted more than just peeps lookin at my thread to see this....soooo here it goes :bangHead:

Ok so i need ur guys input/problem solving skills...I made this piece yesterday out of Mighty Mucus and Blue $$$$ tubing...TAG and NS...mighty mucus being Slyme over Mighty Moss...and Blue $$$ being Irrid over Steel Wool...first ill give some info so u understand what happned with this glass during the process:

First warmed the mighty mucus tube at 1050 for like 10 min, than coated in clear and pulled down to 30mm tube, pulled off a chunk and bench cooled rest of tube...put the prepped piece in the kiln and turned the kiln down to 950 which i would garage at all day...

Than prepped chunk of the Blue $$$$ straight into the flame...no warming, pulled into 2 balls honeycombed 1 and blew the other round...kilned at 950

the piece took about 4-5 hrs all togeather with garaging and assembly...so during the process it garaged @ 950 for around 5 hrs...

Once finished i ramped the kiln to 1055 for 1 hr...than crashed it

4 hrs later...came out of the kiln fine...as i was examaning/admiring it...snap crackle pop....like rice crispies....soooooo im stumped

My ideas was overgaraging? changed the COE of the Mighty Moss...
Or It was a compatability issue between the steel wool and the moss...

I believe it to be a compatability issue, because there are sections of the moss that did not check...only checks were the MM is welded to the B$...this is what i can think of....any other opinions?

http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/EuphonicArts/SAM_0499.jpg

http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/EuphonicArts/SAM_0500.jpg

http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/EuphonicArts/SAM_0501.jpg

http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/EuphonicArts/SAM_0502.jpg

http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/EuphonicArts/SAM_0503.jpg


Ur thoughts and Knowledge are much appreciated!

[p.j.]

i know you are not supposed to deep implode moss. the slyme coat kinda looks really reduced too, which could cause some compatability problems after it is encased

[FizZle]

^the slyme/moss tubing was a pull from TAG...which i bought a half LB of...the thing that gets me about that is...there is the sherlock bend section that didnt check...and the ball with the gong joint didnt check....i will def try in a more oxidizing flame...interesting thought that perhaps the clear coat might have encase the moss too deap though...the tube pull i bench cooled is fine though...hmmmmmm...perplexing thanks for ur input pj

[Abe Fleishman]

The blue money wont crack due to the fact that it is not a chrome color. At least I have never had a problem or heard one. I do not make MM or Slyme but from my tests with them and others I would talk to Paul and see what he says. Remember that you are useing a chrome color and it still can cause cracking problems no matter what you do. Tubing made with the sparkle colors some times acts funny with coe and viscoscity it has some thing to do with the stress of pulling tubing by hand. It is weird but it happenes.
Good luck man I hope u figure it out.
Abe

[FizZle]

^thanks for the info Abe! much appreciated...i will try getting some additional info from paul that may help work the slyme and mm...thanks...i have had no probs with the blue $$$$ it has been baller! only when it was combined with this other tubing...keep up the good work abe!

[J proper]

This was happening to me with alchemy mint

[jr23]

you want to stay away from clear over the TA sparkles, having to re-set kiln and not being able to put loads of clear on em keeps em out of my shop.

I like the lochness, the og moss, I hear the smokey point at trevs is boss. Mixing steel wool and exp green.

I put clear case on all those combos.

Any other sparkle color gets a solid color blow out on 1inch rod to see how it acts before going in a multi section Job.


Use some more of that bench cooled tube on quick stuff.

[FizZle]

i warm anything thats been benchcooled in the kiln before i go back to it and prep it up...i used the Mighty Mucus on a few other pieces and had no issues...which is why i felt comfortable throwing it in this one..i love tag sparkles and have had few issues with them...this one is just kinda boggling my mind...thanks for ur input jr...i also love all the sparkly colors u have mentioned! havnt tried the smokey point from trevs...might have to do so...thanks!

[hashmasta-kut]

i've noticed that slyme is a bit shockier than many. sometimes it checks unexpectedly when heated from cool, or even warm.

[Julian]

It's probably the chromium color checking from overworking.

[smolder holder]

I much prefer steel wool over most other sparkle colors simply because it doesn't have chrome in it and you don't have to worry about it phase seperating on you.

Sorry about your piece fizzle. Looked like it was gonna be a nice one.

[FizZle]

It's probably the chromium color checking from overworking.

i believe this to be the prob as well...dont think i overworked it...anymore than needed...but...i now suspect the chromium as well...damned cool looking colors...blah

thanks for your condolences bois! i fixed that biatch....tore it apart....stuck it back togeather with a new disc...not as nice as originally but...its alive:bouncy:

ill post some pics to my thread, once its out the kiln...

thanks for your help all!

Happy St.Patricks day woooooo guinesssssss!

[Julian]

Indeed, steel wool, disco, satins and OG moss are all safe from chromium checking issues, so I definitely prefer them for anything valuable.

[Monkythrowpoop]

Yeah, I'm with Julian. If you had to go back even just 2 or 3 times to fix the shape of that disc it might not be happy. I had this problem with a section in a big bub recently...sucks. I've heard some weird things about encased slyme not being the happiest, and add that to the moss, which I've definitely had encasing issues with. The only other thing I recommend besides more o2 and quicker shaping is when you're welding sparkle colors together make sure when you're doing the attachment you get them plenty hot and after you stick them together make sure to give it a tug. I know, sounds obvious, but I remember Henry saying that it helps align the chrome platelets in the glass into one piece instead of two stuck togther. Glad you fixed it up, the parts looked sweet :)

[Jestr]

Yeah, definitely looks like compatibility issues, which puts this way over my head. Sick work though, fuckin tragic the way that thing was cracking.

[AdamCotter]

bummer, reminds me of the bad old days of crappy color. maybe too much carbon got absorbed changing th e coe? how long did you work it, and did the green get reduced bad?

[FizZle]

took about maybe 15 min to enclamo the blue $$$$ HC to the Mighty Mucus...and turn into the disc...pj mentioned the slyme looked reduced...but it looks the same to me as it did on the original tubing...so i dunno..it was worked in a neutral flame and it may have got reduced when coated in clear...sooo i dunno im convinced it was overworked as it was blown out thin and then gathered back down when i was makin the disc...

[FizZle]

...thanks to all who have posted there info in this thread...i will keep all your suggestions in mind while working with these types of colors...and will post up some results from the rest of the MM tubing that cracked as i use it up...thanks again...yall are awesome...and i will be hitting u all up with sum rep when i get to it...here is pics of this little pain all fixed up(minus a marble that was lost and the mightymucus around the disc) thanks thanks thanks!

http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/EuphonicArts/SAM_0519.jpg

http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/EuphonicArts/SAM_0523.jpg

[Jestr]

Damn, dude! Clean fucking repair job! I'd say cracking issues FTW. Even if the piece isn't precisely what you were planning, final product is sick & clean and you can take those hands-on cracking lessons to the bank. Repped.

[PTrautman]

Hey Man just saw this thread, I'd say it was the long garaging you did. I recommend the shortest garaging possible . Nice repair Job! Let me know if you have any more problems . I've had very few reports of problems with my chrome colors after the reformulation. But you do have to learn the right techniques with any chrome color. Short garaging/ annealing, get it very hot when working. Use an oxidizing flame . This is what I've distilled from my talks with many people. Really can't say if the "tugging" works or not.

Paul