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View Full Version : More questions about goblet feet.



SexualHarassmentPanda
12-18-2012, 05:30 AM
I am not trying to bore you to death but this is what i am working on.

I was taught how to make feet by Chris Rice (thank you) about 10 years ago. Then i was taught by Mike Plane.
Then I was taught by Robert Mickelson. We have all worked with RAM so maybe it was basically the tech he was using at the time. EVERYONE swore by medium wall tubing only. especially not heavy wall.

So generally I listen.... So I make almost all my feet with contorex. They come out tight.. I'd be happy to explain the tech, if anyone wants.

But I want to move on to the striped tubing by GA. and color rod covered tubing encalmos.

A walked away from glass for like 6 years. Because i was selling way more photos. but before i did i was working all the time.... I tried color application on a piece of hvy 25.4 alot and would try to open them up and they were really wonky. I would just use them for disc flips...

Any advice or thoughts on using thicker tubing like the GA and opening them up perfectly? yes trial and error is cool and i will practice on some regular 25.4 hvy but the GA tubing is expensive and I do not want to blindly attempt this and waste a bunch of expensive tubing......

Hope you can help.
Thanks

misticglass
12-18-2012, 06:01 AM
the lined tubing can be very uneven because of the many different colors they use. I would definitely rip off the size section you want and Spiral it and puff the way you would with the countrax to even out the wall thickness and color differences around the tube befor blowing it out thinner and flaring...

ps. nothings wrong with heavy wall if its the effect your after. I like my goblets dishwasher safe (thick) :-)

Dirty
12-18-2012, 06:48 AM
I would honestly make your own tubing, pull down as thin as you want, work to desired effect, and shazam. Make your own tubing by going very small at first. 50x5(outer)/color/25x4(inner) vac stack, Make this like3-6 inches long and pull down to about 1 inch in diameter for stock, and you can later pull down much further for your worked piece.

SexualHarassmentPanda
12-18-2012, 06:55 AM
I'm looking for a flat perfect circle. Thanks so far...

Mecha
12-18-2012, 08:29 AM
Mistic is on point with the spiral and puff. Get it really, really tight and condense/blow it out a couple of times. Trying to flare solid color tubing or lined tubing without spinning it up first has proven to be impossible for me. You will inevitably get some wonk point that pulls the nice flat round into an egg. Maybe even only slightly, but that is enough to ruin the look in my opinion.

Same goes for each encalmo section. Spin the solid color up nice and tight to remove any wall thickness irregularities and then assemble those sections.

barefoot stash
12-19-2012, 09:46 AM
To add to what Mecha said make sure your bubble is nice and squat, let it ride on your reemer until the lip and wall are a full 90 degrees, then spin it open a little slower then you normally would to flare clear. The reason I don't like heavy wall tubing for goblet work is not because it doesn't come out round but rather when I blow it thin the glass looks wavy and not optically clear.

barefoot stash
12-19-2012, 09:47 AM
btw..nice to hear you are getting back into glass Mike

misticglass
12-19-2012, 10:41 AM
^ if you meant solid color tubing i wouldn't spiral just melt evenly. The furnace tubing can be rediculously thick sometimes. Id recomend finding a supplier and handpicking your tubes

SexualHarassmentPanda
12-19-2012, 12:44 PM
Thanks Dave

Din
12-20-2012, 01:27 PM
If I were to add anything to the excellent advice of Mystic and Mecha, it might be to add a lip wrap to the rim of the foot before opening it, of a color stiffer or as stiff as the stiffest color in the tubing. I find that sometimes just the differences in the consistency of the stripes will cause a little wobbling in the rim of the foot. That being said, I've only ever used thick tubing as the base of my feet. With thicker tubing, it's all about the squat door-knob shape of the bubble before opening, and slightly reaming the mouth before the whole opening process, so that the lip is a bit proud (or pouty, depending on how you look at it I guess). I presume this process is the same as the one you're familliar with, starting from medium wall tubing though.

Mr. Whale dick
12-21-2012, 11:29 PM
Good tip on the lip wrap