Beads

[dirty-d]

I'm new to lampworking and i'm having some trouble getting the beads off of the pick anyone Have any Tips Or tricks

[maxtsunami]

I assume you're using some kind of bead release? If not.... fail.

[Captain Glass]

Lol yea that would be a fail

Assuming you are using a bead release try soaking the entire bead in vinegar it should loosen things up. Like ex lax

[menty666]

Like the others said, make sure you're using bead release. If you are and it's still not coming loose, you might try a second coating next time; make sure it's well dried before you try to make your bead.

You mentioned a 'pick', you're not using your tungsten pick, are you?

Normally you'd use stainless steel mandrels. You can buy them premade, or save a ton of cash and get some 3/32" stainless steel stock from the welding shop, cut them into 9-12" lengths and grind down the ends a bit to smooth them out.

[kbinkster]

To expand on what Tom and company said, clean the rods (mandrels) well to remove any residual oils on them and maybe rough them up a bit with some steel wool or fine grit sandpaper. This will give the bead release something to hold onto.

Make sure your bead release is the right consistency: not too thick, not too thin. You don't want any cracks or bare spots that would expose the mandrel to the glass because the glass will stick to the mandrel.

If you can get the beads loose, but just not off the ends, check to make sure that the mandrels are not bent and check to make sure that the ends are not burred. I have the ends of mine tapered ever-so-slightly.

[dirty-d]

Yeah, I'm using sludge plus bead release. I don't know the proper procedure for after i put the release on the mandrel. Also my kiln is a paragon firefly with no slots.

[dirty-d]

Yes, i was using my tungsten pick, I already know that's a fail.

[Captain Glass]

Ouch ^ don't waste a good pick that's like one of my favorite tools

[kbinkster]

Get some mandrels or make some from the welding rod. :)

Once you dip your mandrel with the release, you will want to let it dry. I have a block of wood with a bunch of holes drilled partway into it that hold the dipped mandrels. Some people use a big can with sand, or some other filler that will hold the mandrels upright so that they are not touching and so the release can dry evenly.

You can let bead release air dry or you can flame dry it (depends on the brand - Sludge Plus does not flame dry very well from what I hear). Don't let the mandrels sit around for too long before using (a day or so, longer depending on the humidity where you are) or the release will start to break apart. When you are ready to make a bead, take a dipped mandrel and warm it (the dipped part) gently in the flame. You want a nice warm glow to it, but don't get it too hot or the release will flake off. Melt a gather of glass and get it really soupy before you lay down your glass footprint. You don't want the glass to be too cool and stiff because you don't want to push the glass into the release. Doing so could cause it to break apart.

[kbinkster]

If you want to, you could practice by making simple round beads and cool them in a fiber blanket and batch anneal them later when you have a bunch. You need to be careful putting your beads in your kiln, avoiding the heating element.

[dirty-d]

Awesome thank you all for the information. How long should an 80 pound oxygen tank last if i'm working on borosilicate glass?

[dirty-d]

Also i dropped and cracked my first marble it didn't break into pieces, is there any chance that i could fix it?

[Aaron Ellis]

Depends on what torch your using and how much you work. Assuming you mean an 80 cf tank I would use that up in a cpl hours at best. I used one on my major minor a while ago and it was just a back up for when my k tanks ran out.

[Captain Glass]

An 80 would last a few hours on my lynx if I were making pipes and a marble. Without seeing a pic it would be hard for anyone to tell you if it were salvageable, but it more than likely wont end up looking like it would've if hadn't cracked it plus you'll just be using more time and gas to fix it. Might wanna cut your loses and try to look at what you learned or could've improved on the next one and spend your time and gas improving their. Good luck man.


Holy short story Batman !!!!

[dirty-d]

I'm using a nortel minor. Thank you all again for all of the advice.

[dirty-d]

Also do i put the mandrels in the kiln with the bead still on it?

[kbinkster]

If you are putting the beads in the kiln right after you make them, you leave them on the mandrel. If you are batch annealing them, you could leave them off or remove them. They might have a better chance at survival if you leave them on the mandrel until after annealing them.

Once you finish making your bead, heat it all the way through with the flame (not making it soupy or anywhere near that hot, just enough to get the glass to the annealing temperature) - further out a little bit in the flame from where you were working it, where the flame is not as hot. Take the bead out of the flame, still rotating it, and let it cool to a soft cherry red. Hold it under the bench to see the glow better and as soon as the glow disappears, put it into the fiber blanket (or vermiculite) or into the kiln.

[LarryC]

Also i dropped and cracked my first marble it didn't break into pieces, is there any chance that i could fix it?

Just think of it as an opportunity to make another :)

[dirty-d]

If the kiln fluctuates between 1049 and 1060 during the annealing process is that normal?

[Captain Glass]

As Dave Hester would say

Yuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuup !

[dirty-d]

One more question then i will post on a new thread. At what temperature is it ok to take stuff out of the kiln?

[Captain Glass]

I turn my kiln off at like 400 or so if I'm still awake. And take them out in the morning.

You'll know, if not you'll find out after one try.

[menty666]

Room temperature

[May Fern]

You have gotten good advice thus far. You might also want to try a different bead release if the Sludge is giving you problems. I have used that in the past and didn't care for it. Foster Fire Smooth n' Tuff for boro and soft glass is wonderful, the beads rarely give me any trouble coming off the mandrels. It's flame or air dry. If you can't find a supplier that carries it, Robin Foster is on Etsy.

[istandalone24/7]

another vote for foster fire smooth and tuff here. good stuff!

[menty666]

I recently switched from that to fusion, the stuff's awesome.