New to the game. Need advice on how to cut glass, make percs, slits etc. Best method?

[303glass]

I have looked all over and used the search bar, but I must admit I am not the most proficient, being new and all. I have also looked under cold working but it doesn't seem to get much attention. So forgive me for putting this here if you believe it is misplaced but I would like to reach as many people as possible to get the best general opinion. I have no idea how to go about it. I am well aware of how to flame cut glass so that is not the main issue. I am more interested in cutting slits and making percolators more particularly. So can someone please give me advice in how to go about this. What is the best method, best saw, best blade etc...? I have read that depending the circumstances you do not need to apply water. I am unsure of this. Do you need to build a station? I am definitely into DIY so I open to all tips and tricks. Thank you very much.

[EFS]

Yes you need water absolutely. Get a tile saw and a diamond resin bond blade. That's about it

[303glass]

Any advice on what brand or type tile saw? What about brand of blade? Do you have to buy a certain size or kind of blade to match the saw?

[FredLight]

Not knowing that you may need water when cutting glass is troublesome.

Harbor Freight has a saw that is suitable for putting slits in your downstems, shower-heads,waffles. Has water feed.

A Dremel with a water bath works for fine cuts.

[303glass]

I knew that I may need water, hence why I worded as such. I stated that I had read the contrary. Which implies that I knew water could be necessary. I was more incurring for a scientific analysis of why it is necessary, and under what circumstances. Thank you for advising harbor freight. Seems reasonable.

[Simian]

I knew that I may need water, hence why I worded as such. I stated that I had read the contrary. Which implies that I knew water could be necessary. I was more incurring for a scientific analysis of why it is necessary, and under what circumstances. Thank you for advising harbor freight. Seems reasonable.

Or incurring.

You say tomato and I say colostomy.

[EFS]

Scientific analysis = glass dust = imminent death = you need to do a lot more research

[menty666]

Not just that, but the water will cool the cutting surface and prolong the life of the tool.

[khan]

Not just that but heat has a way of cracking-chipping glass.

[Kevin Bumble]

Collect the slurry in a bucket, pour off the top don't dump it all down your pipes it will fuck them up, all so not for kitchen or bathroom use, do it out side or in a shed.

You sound kinda resistant on advice you asked for/ don't do that it is annoying.

[aREa541]

Collect the slurry in a bucket, pour off the top don't dump it all down your pipes it will fuck them up, all so not for kitchen or bathroom use, do it out side or in a shed.

You sound kinda resistant on advice you asked for/ don't do that it is annoying.

No shit right?

"Can someone tell me if I need water when I cut?"
"Yes you do!"
"I already knew that I might need it, which is the same as me knowing I need it, hence me asking. I just wanted to know on a molecular level whether I needed it or not."
"Yep, you still do."

Sorry to make light of the situation, but you need to understand the dynamic here. People get crabby when as a first time poster you ask a question that could be answered with a very small amount of research. Whether they should or shouldn't doesn't really matter cuz they do, so it is best to read more and post things other than really basic questions at first. I guarantee you that if it is something basic it is covered here, or on google somewhere.

Not trying to beat you down, just trying to help you along so you aren't bewildered by grouchy glass blowers.

[303glass]

Things do escalate quite quickly. I was simply trying to decipher information I am receiving. The use of water was merely a single facet. I am surrounded by half ass glassblowers and tons of bullshitters, which have implied its importance but had not done so adequately apperently. He made it seem more of a luxury then a necessity. I now understand the importance, which was exactly why I asked. I was questioning, for what reasons. For example, were it mostly for health benefits, one could guess that it might be cheaper to wear a respirator, which I was planning. I did not want to assume that that the life of the blade or quality of the cut were effected. This was exactly the information I was looking for. I was in no way demeaning the helpful replies for which I had received. I was just trying to differentiate which reasons where more important. I am still curios of any particular brand for the blades. One would assume that this facet would be more important then the brand of the saw and what not. Does any body have any advice?

[istandalone24/7]

pm funksizzle for more info.

[Riley]

The blade actually depends on the saw. There are a number of diamond blade manufacturers. There's an equal multitude of saws and saw sizes. There are 4" tiny trim saws all the way up to gigantic and not so useful 24-36" slab saws. For blades you want a continuos rim blade. You will want either sintered or resin bonded diamond blades, in whatever thickness cut you desire as well as the proper arbor size to fit your saw.

You will want to use a water feed system, either recycling or continuos feed with a catch basin. You can also add coolant/lubricant to the water to further soften cutting. Water is a necessity for heat, equipment wear, and your health.

As for the rest of your questions about making percs, diffusers and the like.. you will need to be more specific. Otherwise it's like this "hey guys, how do I cut glass, diffuse it, make percs etc" .... You are stringing questions together with a minimum of specificity. The more specific your questions and the greater proficiency you convey, the greater liklihood that someone will have the time or desire to respond.


So welcome, lets go forward from here.

[Kevin Bumble]

^^^^ thx

[Riley]

Also please take note to space paragraphs. We blow glass and put enough wear on our eyes without having to read a block of text like the last one you posted.

[Greymatter Glass]

I am more interested in cutting slits and making percolators more particularly.

Welcome to the world of making Sick Headies™, I'm certain you'll find our attentive staff and wonderful guides a veritable treasure trove of both solicited and advised information - All this is available for free, on demand, at your finger tips, 24 hours a day from the comfort of your hotel room, passenger seat, and at 35,000 feet up on select Delta Airlines flights.



So can someone please give me advice in how to go about this.


You like, you get some tubes, right, and you like, use a saw ok, to like, cut slits in the glass mang.



What is the best method, best saw, best blade etc...?


Well, the best method involved lasers, space based atomic probes, highly skilled Asian iPhone assembly plant workers, and a freshly caught trout. There are no saws or blades in the best method, as it relies almost entirely on telekinesis and the limitless powers of the Human Spirit.



I have read that depending the circumstances you do not need to apply water.


You don't need water to cut glass. If we're going to operate on pure logic and semantics that much is technically correct. Now, in MOST cases and using MOST standard equipment used in cutting glass, water or some other coolant/lubricant is useful and advised.

In the same vein you don't need oil to drive a car...



I am unsure of this.

Congratulations, you've just used the days Bonus Existential Phrase! You win something!



Do you need to build a station? I am definitely into DIY so I open to all tips and tricks. Thank you very much.

No, you do not need to build a station. See the above water question for more details on this and other questions of deep rhetorical consequence.


Any advice on what brand or type tile saw?

Covington, Gemini, Taurus, Central Electric, Husky, MK, Baranca Diamond, Pistorius, Rigid - All those companies make some form of saw applicable to cutting glass with a diamond blade. What's your budget?


Do you have to buy a certain size or kind of blade to match the saw?

Yes.


I was more incurring for a scientific analysis of why it is necessary, and under what circumstances.

http://www.greymatter.org/pandas/jackiechan.jpg



I am surrounded by half ass glassblowers and tons of bullshitters

Yes. Yes you are.


Does any body have any advice?

See:
pm funksizzle for more info.

[aREa541]

/thread.

Doug should be nominated for post of the year on this one.

[Simian]

Or he will get an infraction like myself for stating the obvious.

[H1JACK3R]

pm funksizzle for more info.

lol.

[303glass]

I appreciate the effort some have taken to reply. All of the quotations are quite flattering.

So just to recap. Water is essential for multiple facets such as, health, conservation of the blade, and prevention of damaging the glass through chipping and cracking. Thank you for the list of saw providers. I am willing to pay for quality, so if it is beneficial to spend the extra, I am open to whatever. Is there a preferred company?

Thank you for the helpful information Riley. I was looking for tips and tricks, common mistakes to avoid. To be more specific, I am very impressed by the mothership percolators, does anybody have any idea how they go about producing them? Also, you advised having a circulation system for the saw. Do you think it wise to buy the cheaper tabletop saws with the blade dropping into the reservoir and modifying it with a little water pump, or would you advise spending the hundreds more for the built in drip system?

[Kevin Bumble]

I would just go to the source and just ask mother ship what they use!


Riley was more than helpful I learned lil bit too.

469594696046961

[aREa541]

To be more specific, I am very impressed by the mothership percolators, does anybody have any idea how they go about producing them?

I really think you need to get in front of a torch before you ask any more questions on how techniques are done. It will put everything into perspective for you. I don't know how many of my friends have watched me blow glass, then have all kinds of ideas of what they want to make when I let them get behind the flame for the first time. The feel of panic that a hot gather of glass gives you as a noob, quickly erodes all the lofty goals set before that point.

In this game, the phrase "walk before you run" couldn't be more true. Basically, you don't even need to think about getting a saw in your first 6 months (something I am surprised hasn't even been mentioned yet).

[303glass]

You are correct assume I am new. I have however taken a few classes at Glasscraft in golden,Co, known and seen multiple artist and seen multiple lengthy
demonstrations, read a good part of contemporary lamp working and other lamp working books, as well as scoured youtube and all of the other forums which are shit compared to here.

I understand how one might feel the need to inform a giddy newcomer, of the realistic expectations, however I have not logged many hours behind a torch, but what I have I feel the time been very useful and informative. I am well aware of the necessary steps and I try to maintain realistic expectation. Is it wrong to specify a
particular curiosity to know how something is done, especially in what I thought was the proper forum?

The information from the last 24 hours has been very useful, what I could extrapolate from the condescending comments and hazing anyways. I guess what I can deduce is that some people have somehow managed to intentionally skip over some other points to focus on the apparently atrocious misjudgment of the use of lubrication, rather then be helpful. I understand, how I talk can sound pretentious, but I mean no harm.

Apparently the trend is to figure it out on your own and deal with it, don't skip ahead or try to hard. Pay your dues.

[H1JACK3R]

People have actually taken it pretty easy on you.

[aREa541]

Sorry, totally my bad to assume you had never been in front of a torch before. Some of your posts just reminded me of friends I have prior to their first session. Really I am trying to help you, and honestly I would just save your money on a saw and spend it on clear at first. You need a lot of basics down before you start putting anything with diffusion in your pieces.

Nothing wrong with trying things out of your skill set, provided you have the time and money to burn. I did it frequently when I first started, it's a great way to stay interested. It's just a way easier and faster path to focus on the basics first.

[Colin Allhose]

speaking from one newb to another,
i don't think anyone is telling you 'You are on your own' but understand you are speaking to a community of lampworkers that have been doing this for years. It is good to push yourself and strive for what your desires in this art may be, but I think the moral of the story is to listen to what these guys are telling you- if you read through here, time behind the torch (a lot of it), taking time to research and educate yourself and even further keep going with the lessons. If you have barely logged any hours with the flame, you simply still have a ways to go before "monster headies." Reading through these forums or on the internet in general you can find a lot of information on glass cutting and "cold working." With some small research you can easily find the answers that you are asking for here... but jumping off the deep end of "How do you cut glass, do you need water, I wanna make these perks" is a very sporadic inquiry for somebody who is still learning the beginning steps of the science of glass.

Read lots, Research More, Get behind the flame and go go go, listen to what the guys here tell you because sarcasm aside they wont lead people in the wrong direction; they know what they are talking about - I think you will find a lot of your answers in that effort... without being lectured...

This post amused the hell out of me today, but it seemed to be running in circles with your responses....

my 2 cents- good luck!

[Riley]

the question of budget still looms, and the advice of lube is your choice alone. i find its slippery and greatly reduces dexterity and grip. as well, when people use water cooling lube they tend to recycle to fluid alot, and it gets gross. i use a 12" target brand wet saw. i do not use resin bonded blades at this time. i have friends that solely use them, and they have sources, as well if you search for "diamond resin bond blade" or "resin blade" or "resin bonded" , one of these is bound to turn up a thread where someone like vertigo glass, somewhere, greymatter, or another well informed individual has already taken the time to help.


i'll also add that because i use a 12" saw, i can actually put any size blade (12" and under), with the same arbor size into it. i use a standard continuous rim lapidary blade, probably mk or diamond pacific. i think the blade width is somewhere around .035" to .050". you will have to determine what you are cutting for diffusion, the number of cuts, and the type of perc or diffuser you are going to make. that will help decide what width works best for what application.

again, i don't use resin bonded blades at this time. i have used them plenty at other shops and i find that even though there is a minimum to no chipping, they can be incredibly slow to cut. when i do my cutting prep i am cutting literally hundreds of cuts per hour, sometimes on glass as thick as several millimeters. i grid alot of my cuts so the need for a chipless cut is not greater than my need for speed in cutting. i will also add that resin bonded blades are often twice the cost of conventional sintered blades, and they break very easily, and by this i mean sometimes in a few weeks, whereas some of my sintered blades last a year. knowing how to properly use a saw blade, and maintain it will go a long way to keep it running properly.


now to the mothership question. i am told they use lasers. for real. i have no idea if this is true but the complexity of the cuts on the flower of life percs would be hard to achieve otherwise. the only options aside from that would be maybe something like a water jet, or using photo resists and somehow sand blasting it just right, sure. the laser method sounds more realistic although i myself haven't quite grasped how the glass is held in the machine. is it some kind of rotary laser cutter, who knows? i personally feel that as cool as those flower of life percs look, they don't function amazing, and the time and resources needed to achieve it do not warrant my small operation to use.


anyhow, i tried to touch on a number of tips so i apologize if its somewhat jumbled and i'll add that although there is a veritable shit ton of information here, there is also a lack of specific information about company's or individual's proprietary techniques. that's because this is an industry. people forge their own way, and spend years doing it. you can find and know much about what most if not all people do to achieve their work. the question then becomes, what do you respect? what do you value, and how far are you willing to go to achieve your goals ? also when you spend years doing something, would you then be willing to share everything and anything with anyone who just walked in the door.

[Mr. Whale dick]

Dude did not know to use water with a saw and is ready to crank out mothership designs...


Fucking classic...

[aREa541]

now to the mothership question. i am told they use lasers. for real. i have no idea if this is true but the complexity of the cuts on the flower of life percs would be hard to achieve otherwise. the only options aside from that would be maybe something like a water jet, or using photo resists and somehow sand blasting it just right, sure. the laser method sounds more realistic although i myself haven't quite grasped how the glass is held in the machine. is it some kind of rotary laser cutter, who knows? i personally feel that as cool as those flower of life percs look, they don't function amazing, and the time and resources needed to achieve it do not warrant my small operation to use.

As crazy as that might sound, it is actually quite believable. Last year I did quite a bit of research into laser etching machines that worked on glass, and there is a wide variety available for many different uses. Some even etch inside a chunk of glass like those kitschy crystals you can get in a mall kiosk.

[cheesebox]

My shop has a pistorious and a nice diamond blade, aswell as a sawcutter willing to whore himself out for your money. and we are in the 303.

[Riley]

i have no doubt that the technology for laser cutting glass exists. i guess i just don't have enough interest to understand the complexities it takes to do. i imagine alot of the disc perc designs hitman was doing were also done the same way. the stuff looks cool, but to each his own. who knows, maybe someday with the right idea and the funds to pursue it i may get into it. though, it would have to be unique in function not just cutting some other design into a perc. there is plenty to do with a wetsaw and torch for now.

[aREa541]

If your shit ain't broke........

Or in your case, if your shit's on point, don't fix it.

[Greymatter Glass]

the more advanced perc designs use a water jet cutter, not a laser. lasers and clear boro don't play well together. A decent used waterjet cutting system will set you back $100,000-150,000. You can, of course, find people who own the machines and rent time on them.

As for saws... you're looking at (new costs) $500-1500 for a basic wet saw set up, $3000-10,000 for a high end machine and blades.... there's plenty of used and cheaper equipment out there as well... so of course you can eventually find a used pistorious for $1000 and buy some blades...

But is the time, effort, and money you're putting into this project better used elsewhere to increase the base skills you'll need to have work deserving of some higher end work?

KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid.

[Riley]

the only options aside from that would be maybe something like a WATER JET, or using photo resists and somehow sand blasting it just right, sure.


glad to know my half ass assumption was correct, thanks doug. when i was at graffix some years back they sent out some tube samples to a laser place to have them test some etching. they came back with micro fractures and the idea was canned. i think we've talked about this here at some point. i just wasn't sure if maybe some more advanced laser techs hadn't come down the pipeline. pun intended.

[dnug42]

ah there is a ton of post on wetsaws, blades, wetcutting, ect...type diffent word combos- look deeper man- do some leg work....and mr riley hooked you up...good luck!
goldy

[VertigoGlass]

My advice to you is to read and learn and shut your condescending mouth and learn to take advice. You must come from the instant gratification generation. To those that have put their time and effort into leaning and developing tech wasted countless hours and dollars on trial and error just so you can prance up with your hand out wanting the world given to you is insulting to those before you and those before me. A little respect goes a long way with some of these salty cats. Beyond the free hand outs that have been given to you in this thread there is plenty of info on this site about saws and blades, I know this because i have gone into detail not only on blades but saws and water delivery systems as well. You start this thread off about wanting the best then slide into the will a cheap saw work. I have a cheap ass HF saw that the blade cost more than the saw and an MK saw that cost 8 times the HF that leans up against the wall unused and if you did a little research you would know why........

as far as you making percs i dont care how many videos you have watched or books you have glossed over or how smart you think you are chances are that stuff is beyond your level as of now. Start where everyone else has pay your dues and learn this wonderful art the right way. I know you have these great dreams of making 5k+ tubes your first day week month out but chances are it aint gonna happen no disrespect but pay your dues. No video book and so on will replace physical time behind a torch point blank. Im shocked that you didnt get trolled harder than you have so far and BTW I LOVE SAMMMICHES

[Riley]

^ glad I name dropped this gent in regards to the search function and specific blades already being readily available. Chris, you are a beast. Your knowledge and extensive technical interests make me smile. There are so many intricate technical fields out there that I have no idea about that it's a true pleasure to glimpse and get a vicarious high through it.

[Endersion]

Posting in epic thread. First page was hilarious. 303glass is just as pretentious in person.

[Aaron Ellis]

^Hahahahahahahaha. I was thinking the same thing vertigo.

[menty666]

I've never forgiven Delta for those crappy bagels they were serving on the Boston > NYC shuttle years ago. 6 in the freaking morning and that was not what I wanted to deal with.

As for the other stuff....

I think you'll find as you gain more experience, you'll begin to puzzle out the harder stuff based on what you've learned. There's a metric sh** ton of stuff on here that I see that I can't figure out after 7 years, and there's stuff that makes sense now that didn't make sense even a year ago. When you're ready skill-wise to make a perc, you'll realize you have a basic understanding of what might be involved. Until then, even if someone tells or shows you, you likely won't be able to pull it off with any degree of skill, so work on the basics.

Oh, and I've love to see a video of someone trying a laser on clear boro, but I sure as heck wouldn't want to be in the room.

[VertigoGlass]

Oh, and I've love to see a video of someone trying a laser on clear boro, but I sure as heck wouldn't want to be in the room.

ask and you shall receive

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4Q2F9To21M

[menty666]

ask and you shall receive

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4Q2F9To21M

Darn it, that was just really interesting and a crazy clean weld. I was hoping for an industrial accident worthy of the Darwin Awards.

[Colin Allhose]

ask and you shall receive

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4Q2F9To21M

There you go 303, just hit up that company and get one of those, You'll be cutting mothership percs in no time!!! hahahahaha :dieslaugh

[byron3]

As crazy as that might sound, it is actually quite believable. Last year I did quite a bit of research into laser etching machines that worked on glass, and there is a wide variety available for many different uses. Some even etch inside a chunk of glass like those kitschy crystals you can get in a mall kiosk.

That would be our American tax dollars hard at work, thee military developed the technology for possible HUD use and was a miserable fail. The Technology was then released to the general public, thereby creating the worlds most expensive glass paperweights!!

To the OP, Welcome to the forums ................ may your stay be both enjoyable and informational!!

[Greymatter Glass]

Typical desktop lasers used for etching and cutting wood, paper, thin metal, and plastics will only crack and shatter tubes... it's nasty, someone brought one to AGI years ago and we played with it a bit, couldn't get it to cleanly etch boro.

I would suspect the laser HA is using on that machine is not your typical ebay laser, probably something made for the machine and costs in excess of $250,000...

[FredLight]

I'd like to see proof that MALL KIOSK paperweights are glass and that lasers are used to create the little sTinkerbell inside.

I think they are Lucite or Acrylic.

[somewhere]

ask and you shall receive

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4Q2F9To21M

Wow that just made this shitty thread worth something !
Thanks

[somewhere]

I'd like to see proof that MALL KIOSK paperweights are glass and that lasers are used to create the little sTinkerbell inside.

I think they are Lucite or Acrylic.

Seriously? They are glass go find out yourself. Maybe it's just because I live in FL but you can find these at gas stations everywhere not to mention mall ,flea market ,airport ,etc.

I know I saw a video of one of the cnc laser machines in a promotional vid.. I was,surprised to find out they are not as crazy expensive as one might think.

[aREa541]

From what I read, lasers that work on boro use a succession of short bursts of laser to help alleviate stress, and the technology is mostly fit for thin wall ~1mm.

The kiosk kitsch lasers cut into "crystal" whatever that may mean, but the material is definitely a glass like substance.

Keep in mind this shit advances really fast, and what may be true today might not tomorrow...

[VertigoGlass]

The kiosk kitsch lasers cut into "crystal" whatever that may mean, but the material is definitely a glass like substance.


"Crystal glass: Its content includes 55％ of silica sand, 30％ of lead oxide, and l5％ of potassium carbonate. It was called crystal glass due to having the same transparency and lustre as crystal. Since there is 30% lead content, the weight is relatively heavy. If you tap the glass by finger nail, it will sound like metal. It is much easier to produce lustre by polishing due to high refraction rate. It contains more lead so that it tends to be soft and much easier to cut and polish. But it also tends to get scratches and needs to be handled carefully."

[somewhere]

"Crystal glass: Its content includes 55％ of silica sand, 30％ of lead oxide, and l5％ of potassium carbonate. It was called crystal glass due to having the same transparency and lustre as crystal. Since there is 30% lead content, the weight is relatively heavy. If you tap the glass by finger nail, it will sound like metal. It is much easier to produce lustre by polishing due to high refraction rate. It contains more lead so that it tends to be soft and much easier to cut and polish. But it also tends to get scratches and needs to be handled carefully."

Your thinking lead crystal and what your saying only applies in the UK.
Any clear glass is considered crystal by us standards.

[VertigoGlass]

Yeah well US standards are stupid =0) no way would i ever consider quartz boro or anything below 114coe crystal but thats just me

[FredLight]

I used to work at a mall "kiosk" by the food court.

We made roses,bears frogs,pigs, etc. I only made bears,pigs and turtles. Got paid a buck apiece. Pay sucked.

BUT....we sold those paperweights. The owner said he just ordered them from a catalog and they ranged from $3 to $5. From that info, I assumed they were plastic.

I have one here somewhere........

[aREa541]

I almost bought one of those machines, I guarantee you they are not plastic.

[FredLight]

Ok, paperweight weighs just as much as boro marble of roughly same size.

My Ti-pen doesn't want to write on it. There's a coating, I think.

[Greymatter Glass]

I'd like to see proof that MALL KIOSK paperweights are glass and that lasers are used to create the little sTinkerbell inside.

I think they are Lucite or Acrylic.

I don't know what you would accept as proof....

I know someone with a business ( http://www.memories-in-crystal.com/web/intro.php )that makes the crystal image things like you see in malls and stuff, it is real glass. Most of it comes from Korea and China. The owner of the local company here called me a while back looking to see if I had any of it (I have a bunch of Schott crystal, no good for the lasers).

Some of the stuff you'll see at the mall and super cheap at gas stations IS in Lucite (plastic) but the better stuff is done in actual glass crystal.

[Riley]

New to crystal paperweight game, Need advice on what kind of saw I'll need. How do I specifically make every design? Can anyone tell me what I need to accomplish this ?

Please help. Iv read contemporary crystal paper weights volume 1 and 2 and Iv been to every mall around here to study these objects.

On an semi-unrelated note, how does Paul Stankard make his designs ?

[aREa541]

Riley, you might ruffle some feathers around here if you try to cut through all the hard work of the crystal paperweighters that came before you. Browse alibaba.com, use the search feature, and learn to speak Chinese on your own so you can get the best deal. I don't think most around here rent a $2000 kiosk next to Hollister so they can just spoon feed you the game.

The problem with those books is they are incomplete. You want "The Crystal Paperweight Bible" by a guy named Greg Hellinger.

Paul Stankard's designs are made with a particle accelerator, stump sucker, and a coloring book. That is how he gets such detail into his lucite encasements.

[Mr. Whale dick]

Classic!!!

[nodice]

....I am surrounded by half ass glassblowers and tons of bullshitters...

Felt compelled to quote this again. It's my favorite.

[dnug42]

half ass glassshitter and bullblowers

[LarryC]

Paul Stankard's designs are made with a particle accelerator, stump sucker, and a coloring book. That is how he gets such detail into his lucite encasements.

I knew that stuff in those weights was real! Always wondered how it got in there but I assumed it was done the same as the live jellyfish in those chinese weights.

[Bluemoon24]

pm funksizzle for more info.

Hahaha threds like these start up almost once a month on the melting pot........

[byron3]

http://www.engraversjournal.com/article.php/2503/index.html

Love these threads!!

[byron3]

Sub-surface laser engraving (SSLE)

Sub-surface laser engraving is the process of engraving an image in a transparent solid material by focusing a laser below the surface to create small fractures. Such engraved materials are of high-grade optical quality (suitable for lenses, with low dispersion) to minimize distortion of the beam. BK7 glass is a common material for this application. Plastics are also used.

Since its inception in the late 1990s, SSLE has become more cost effective with a number of different sized machines ranging from small (~US$35,000–60,000) to large production sized tables (>US$250,000). Although these machines are becoming more available, it is estimated that only a few hundred are in operation worldwide.[5] Many machines require very expensive cooling, maintenance and calibration for proper use. The more popular SSLE engraving machines use the Diode Pumped Solid State or DPSS laser process.[6] The laser diode, the primary component which excites a pulsed solid state laser, can easily cost one third of the machine itself and functions for a limited number of hours,[5] although a good quality diode can last thousands of hours.[6]

In the past five years, use of SSLE has become more cost effective to produce 3D images in souvenir 'crystal' or promotional items with only a few designers concentrating on designs incorporating large or monolithic sized crystal. A number of companies offer custom made souvenirs by taking 3D pictures or photos and engraving them into the crystal. Quality of the designs and images varies greatly between vendors in the promotional and personal services sector (photo engravers) – the mass producing curio vendors have the habit of reducing resolution of the points and lowering output to maximize their laser diode's lifespan.[5]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laser_engraving#Stone_and_glass

http://www.leaguelaser.com/products/LGYAG_800_series/LG804A_B.htm

[byron3]

Just Google "Sub Surface Laser Etching" ......................

http://www.princessglassworld.com/world-of-glass-decoration/sub-surface-laser-engraving

[themoch]

god i love you all,

everything i could have said has been said already.


everybody: Major Props!!!!

[byron3]

The only nail I did not drive in that coffin lid would be a direct connection to boro ................ Well doing research on BK7 Glass yields the final stroke!!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crown_glass_%28optics%29

[FredLight]

This is so much better than sandwiches.

[LarryC]

This is so much better than sandwiches.

Ohh. I dont know. Aliensciences sammitch thread was the shit.

[PyroChixRock]

This thread needs a lot more sammiches.


47115

47116

[Colin Allhose]

see # 1
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=sammich

[funksizzle]

Don't cut at all, sell it as pure, uncut downstem.