substitute kiln relay from granger?

[nicko0]

relay in my f240 is crapping out as i type. used the spare. never ordered another. i suck.

so i figure i can get a relay from grainger to replace this relay. anyone want/can help me get the right one?

i know i can figure this stuff out with the interwebs. but i dont want to.

sry.

[nicko0]

ps: ive given it a good beating and put a fan on it. hopefully it will behave till tomorrow.

[nicko0]

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Relay-1EJH8?Pid=search

will this one work?

[Bglass]

I don't know if it will work for you but I took peep at my relay already in the kiln and the one i got from grainger had the same prongs and ratings as my original. Except the original was obviously a diff brand, diff country make aswell. Anyways ordered it took a day to get to me. Replaced it exactly as my last was installed. Running in two mins, Been working fine for the past two days 8hrs each. So far I'm pleased and its a lot quieter then my old 6yr one which went clunk clunk when it did its thing. Now the new one is a nice quiet click. Had me worried at first but many hours in and the relay looks, smells and function fine.
So I suggest looking at yours in the kiln jot down the specs and see. I have a 9169 and don't know if its components differ from yours. Hope I could help even tho I just rambled about my experience.

[kage]

^ what he said. Read the specs and part number on the side of your relay. Might even find the same one just by google, or amazon. Tyco was bought by potter-brumsfield but the part numbers stayed the same.

[nicko0]

f240 original relay t93p7d22-12 replacement part number at grainger is 1ejh8 they have a couple other relays that are the same just different mfg. they have a couple 8 pin relays that will work too. just use the comparison chart.

its easy enough to find the same part online. i figured with two graingers and a handful of industrial electrical suppliers in my area id find a comparable part. i did find the same part different manufacturer with very similar part number. turns out the the numbers mean something. although it is obvious the way to word the specs of the part vary from supplier to supplier mfg to mfg. so i found a few other mfg. called all the suppliers in my area to see who had it in stock. non had anything in stock but din mount relays(which can be used with a base) and they only had ones that go to 16amps only 16. dunno why but it was across the board for anything 12v switched.

grainger does carry the part i need just not in stock in town. in stock 65 miles away. oh and it is a similar part with wierd mfg number unlike aLL THE other alternate but exactly the same parts' numbers.

so i oredered it over the phone this morning for pick up. she said it would be ready in 30 minutes. and there are three in stock.

arrive at grainger. they dont have my order. apparently they were supposed to give me an order number. im going with the person i placed the order with didnt knowhow to do her job cause she was rude and condescending to me. which is very raRE for me to get treated like that.

so there were only two in stock, not three.

i have installed the part and it is working properly.

i have ordered three to my local grainger so that they will be on hand when i need to replace it again in a year or so.

[nicko0]

1ejh8 dayton is a piece of junk

it crapped out today

thats only seven weeks!!!!! 10hrs a day five days a week.

1 year warranty but damn.

[nicko0]

dogwood ceramics was very surprised that the dayton relay failed so quickly.

never the less i will stick with the original manufacturer, potters brumfeld

[nodice]

The specs on relays usually tell you how long you can expect them to live. I wouldn't think one brand would make that much difference over another, at least without seeing the specs.

[nicko0]

so i fried another relay, a potters brumfeld.

im pretty sure its the wire terminal oxidation causing the terminals to get tooooo hot and melt (you can see where the plastic bubbles on the last two relays)

so im removinf a bit of the overheated wire
cleaning the new ends with a vinegar salt bath neutralizing it with baking soda
new push on terminals

cross fingers

ps i feel like i should have known to be checking the temp of that area of the relay but it didnt cross my mind till it showed melting on a proven part.

[Bglass]

geez.. sorry to hear about your luck. that sucks
id say do like you are about to do, check the fittings etc.
mine is still going strong since i last posted in this thread. so almost four months next week, im keeping my fingers crossed that i just didnt jynx myself:}

[kage]

I've kept a fan mounted on the side of my table, blowing air through the slits of the kiln to keep the electronics from overheating. Could just be luck, but no problems for a few months now.

[IsthmusColor]

I'd get a mercury relay with same specs.

[somewhere]

so i fried another relay, a potters brumfeld.

im pretty sure its the wire terminal oxidation causing the terminals to get tooooo hot and melt (you can see where the plastic bubbles on the last two relays)

so im removinf a bit of the overheated wire
cleaning the new ends with a vinegar salt bath neutralizing it with baking soda
new push on terminals

cross fingers

ps i feel like i should have known to be checking the temp of that area of the relay but it didnt cross my mind till it showed melting on a proven part.

Terminal oxidation is a clear sign of loose wires. If the wires are not loose no oxidation can build up no oxygen can can in-between those wires. It is very common for connections to get a bit loose from heating and cooling. When this happens that connection will start to overheat melting wires relays and just crapping out on you. Anytime you replace a relay or a connection in a kiln you must go back after fireing and retighten all connections. Many of these ovens are sent from the factory never being taken up to temp. Loose connections sink ships.

A tight connection with properly sized wire will produce zero heat. None. Solid state relays do produce heat but I'm guessing all kiln companies mount them on heat sinks or thin metal to act as one for this reason. The heat from an ssr will be at the base of the relay not the terminal ends.

Sounds like your all set now but definitely keep an eye on wire connections. I like your idea of monitoring temperature inside the control box. One of those point and shoot thermometers from hf for $25 can save you a bunch of money down the road.

Warnings: never try to tighten element leads on a cold kiln. Elements become brittle after fired. If you need to address these connection heat up your kiln pull the power and tighten while still hot. This only applies to element connections.

[nicko0]

i aways retightened my push on terminals.

the crimps are still rock solid from the factory.

the wires and terminals are well oxidized though

and i would consider the wires to be brittle near the terminal

exactly why they ended up this way, im not sure, but felt like ive operated and maintenanced the kiln properly
so im kinda frustrated that i know its gonna happen again in at least the nxt 8 yrs (thats how old the kiln is and has been used full time)

i live in a very hot very humid environment so i wonder if i need to be doing something extra.

[nicko0]

so removed the old terminals and .75 inches of wire.

there was still heavy oxidation that far up the wire

tried vinegar solution. wasnt really working. neutralized it with baking soda.

scraped wires clean w wire brush

crimped on new terminals with giant vise grips

full speed ramp up to 1060.

20 minutes in and kiln just starts to cycle to prevent overshooting temp. relay got a tiny bit warm near the connections, like barely detectable.

(once up to temp it runs cooler cause kiln starts cycling)

so id say the repair is a success.