What temperatures should I use to create different boro effects?

[HJCourt]

I have a glass hive tall guy kiln and I'm looking to start experimenting with my annealing schedules. What temperature is best for annealing for durability? How do I strike for more brilliant colors in my kiln? I currently only have a batch annealing and a standard annealing schedule both of which hold at 1080 for a half hour before ramping down. This is my first kiln and I'd really like to optimize my schedules and see what my kiln can really do. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

[misled youth]

use the search engine, you will easily find more then you ever want to know on the subject...

[HJCourt]

I used the search engine and I couldn't find any answers on annealing for durability.

[Shattered Dreams]

The slower the better.
but there are charts and formulas for the thickness vs. time.
get bandhus book if you don't have it, theres a section in there.
it explains about using temperatures between 1050 and 1090 depending on thickness,
and around 1/4" I think it was something like 4-6 degrees per minute.

[TlkQ]

I used the search engine and I couldn't find any answers on annealing for durability.

You didn't look hard enough. This is discussed constantly.

[p.j.]

1050 is 1050

[hashmasta-kut]

aha! i knew it.

but what if your pyrometer isnt accurate, then 1050 may be some other number. i wish i knew for sure.

[Slow]

Get these books. (http://www.salusaglassworks.com/CL3_v12.html)

And kut, you could always get some of those pyrometric cones if you want to be sure.

[Greymatter Glass]

many ceramics places will have calibrated thermocouple probes they will lend (with a big deposit) that you can use to set the offset (calibrate) your kiln.

As to the OP....

there's no such term as "annealing for durability" just try "annealing" and you'll have better luck. Poke around in the kiln section, I'd bet there's good info there

[RamblezMarblez]

I have a ramp schedule for Ruby'z, Amber Purples, Dillyz, and one for slumping bottles flat... I'm sure I could come up with more but my kiln only stores 4 presets.

[mellofello]

I'd agree with greymatter on this. Annealing is the process of removing stress from the glass, if its annealed its annealed thats as durable as it gets.I suppose a longer soak time and a slower ramping down may help but only to a certain point. If you are unsure how well you are annealing you pieces you could look to get a polariscope which will show up stress in the glass.

This is a separate issue to annealing for certain colours, some need to be held at a lower temperature to soak and don't liked to be soaked for too long. Other colours may like to be soaked at a higher temperature first before dropping to annealing temperature. Some people use striking programs before annealing which involves going higher than annealing temp then dropping lower then going higher again and so on.

I'm no expert and someone might correct me but those are the principles as I understand them. Bandhus book contemporary lampworking should be able to help you a lot, there is also an annealing schedule on northstar's website for quick reference