View Full Version : Boro Clearity - your opinion
Orrza
07-04-2005, 03:45 AM
Hi Everyone.
I was just thinking to myself what is the best boro brand to use...
I used simax and eignshaft together and simax seem a bit less clear in the flame, however it's not visible after glass has cooled down.
So I thought about asking your opinion, I bet sone have tried all kinds of clear here, what's your favorit? and why?
Did anyone notice that difference in the flame as I mentioned?
Speak up ! LOL :)
Julian
07-04-2005, 06:33 AM
I don't notice much difference in clarity, or really anything... I have observed that different clears are different colors when heated to the same temperature next to each other. I used SImax 12mm for a couple of years until my friend bought some Corning, and erk... I have hardly noticed.
I have noticed that Simax and Duran (and I suppose Eigenshaft) melt a little smoother than Pyrex and Kimax. Color can display this property as well; I've noticed some colors get whitish-hot and weirdly smooth looking on the outside, and they seem to melt a little easier. The Chinese color tubing and Momka's both do this.
One interesting tip I heard around here long ago is that Pyrex contains some calcium, while the European formulas do not : this is allegedly affects silver crystal growth in some way. This was in a fuming honeycomb thread, I believe.
$$$$$$$
07-04-2005, 02:39 PM
:rollin :rollin you gotta go with the euromax on anything you want to be sick!!!!!
homer
07-04-2005, 02:48 PM
Damn strait, Euromax is the only way to go.
Yea i was thinkin about the same thing this week
Ive only used Pyrex up to now, but i wonder, For DILDO what would be the best glass to use, with none defect, really clear and strong looking .. . ? ?
I need to buy a couple case of 1 and 1½ inch rod... id like to know your experience on this one
i tought pyrex was the clearest but uhhhh :rollin
were can i buy some euromax... i bet there wont be no distributor in canada :(
i can only get simax and pyrex from pegasus-glass i think. other than that. . .. .....
thanks
medicatedMELTDOWN
07-04-2005, 10:55 PM
Damn strait, Euromax is the only way to go.
you guys serious about EUROmax???
:mime1::mime2::mime1::mime2::mime1::mime2::mime1: :mime2: :mime1::mime2:
why is it called euro max if its made in phoenix :hotrod: :hotrod: YA YEE-ah :lol
oh and LÖic euromax's website = http://www.euromaxglass.com/
PyroChixRock
07-04-2005, 11:43 PM
It's not made in phoenix! And it's not clear, they are joking with ya...it's great for prodo, that's about it.
$$$$$$$
07-05-2005, 07:57 AM
Euromax blows, and just for the record, about 92% of my responses are being sarcastic, so keep that in mind.
Orrza
07-05-2005, 10:34 AM
Yea cupcake... I can tell by the avatar :-)
Mike_Aurelius
07-05-2005, 11:06 AM
I've been working with Simax for over a year now, and only occasionally do I notice some "clouding". I've written this off as "my fault, should have cleaned the tube/rod better".
I have seen the occasional bubble in the larger diameter rods, but nothing larger than about 1 mm, and then only one or two per 5' length.
I've had some issues with fuming the Simax, finally found the "sweet spot" on my Barracuda (Thanks Kristian!!!), but still having problems fuming with gold.
I can get a nice light/heavy/solid silver fume, but unless I put a light layer of silver down first, I can't for the life of me get the goddamn gold fume to stick to the Simax...
rassin frassin frickin fracken...
KT-Old School Glass
07-05-2005, 12:03 PM
I have used Pyrex, Simax, Eigenschaft, Kimax, Euromax, Schott, Chinex, and some other Chinese clear. By far the 2 best are Schott and Simax.
From best to worst this is my list:
Schott (Duran)
Simax
Eigenschaft
Kimax (Kimble)
the Chinese that I can't remember the name
Pyrex
Euromax
Chinex
If you are using 24k gold it will rub off on your hands. It also burns off quicker.
Are you wanting to leave the gold on the surface?
sunray
07-05-2005, 01:01 PM
At the request of our customers we carry just Simax. and thats at least 100 people's opinion out here
sunray
Mike_Aurelius
07-06-2005, 05:39 AM
No, just trying to get a "pink" fume on the surface. I was able to get it with the Lynx, the Mirage, even better with the pre-mix on my Red Max, but haven't been able to duplicate it with the Barracuda.
Jme glass
07-06-2005, 06:19 AM
Mike are you keeping the piece your fuming farely hot. i found the gold "sticks" better when the piece is hot
Jme
KT-Old School Glass
07-06-2005, 06:40 AM
I agree, pre-heat your piece in the flame good before fuming.
Remeber the flame that I described for the silver fume? Now back the propane back down so that the flame starts to sharpen slightly. This is a good flame for fuming gold.
Mike_Aurelius
07-06-2005, 08:09 AM
Ahhhhhh....(the sound of light dawning...) LOL
Yeah - the piece is always hot before I start to fume - I heat it to red, let it cool, then reheat to just under red.
steven p selchow
07-06-2005, 11:26 AM
I didn't want to start another thread and Im sure we lost the old one to ez-board...so I'll ask it here, whats the best glass rod to fume and honeycomb, especially getting the crystal growth? I beleive I used pyrex, only because thats what I used last year, but switched to artists series kimble this past year, anyway, I got some deep honeycomb by mistake and haven't been able to repeat it again, I had no kiln cycle, just put it in and let it sit all day at 1100 degrees, damn I miss that effect...any suggestions?
Steve
Orrza
07-06-2005, 03:17 PM
Well, by what I know it's definatly not simax...
Greymatter Glass
07-06-2005, 03:52 PM
I think the thread on ez boards kinda devolved into magic and fairy dust there....
From what I've heard anecdotally, Pyrex has more calcium than other glass, and this aides crystal growth. I haven't heard anyone with a technical knowledge of the matter voice an opinion, but I'm sure someone knows, or could figure it out for certain.
From Corning, they claim their glass is:
SiO2 80.60%
B2O3 13.00%
Na2O 4.00%
Al2O3 2.30%
Trace <0.10%
Now, I guess calcium could be the exclusive trace element, but I would think stuff like potassium, lead, iron, platinum, and other stuff would also be included in traces... basically anything from the source silica or the crucible... so why would that be exclusive to Pyrex?
I think it's another myth. The best advice I've received was from Dellene Peralta who told me to make sure I use the same brand of glass for the tube and the rod, otherwise you get that weird shadow/striation effect. Don't over fume, and be patient with the technique... I've done a ton of failed honeycombs before I started getting consistent results.
Another technique I learned in Seattle from someone at GWP (if yer here, I forgot your name, but I rememebr talking to you, thanks a ton) that was mixing down GA Warm Yellow with clear and using that as the silver base for a honeycomb. I've done that a few times, but it strikes more solid than just silver fume work.
Dot size and spacing is also super critical.
Good luck with 'em
-Doug
$$$$$$$
07-06-2005, 05:03 PM
I'm claiming Simax, that's what i like. It's mostly in the user.. If you dont know how to make it deep before growing crystals then it will never look good. then you have to know how to strike it correctly, which i think a lot of people, think they know but really don't. It took me about a year and a half of experimenting and learning before i knew exactly how to strike things megatron and how it really worked, i honestly think this is an experience thing. and it's all about practice.
steven p selchow
07-06-2005, 11:38 PM
Ok then..I'll make you an exceptional cupcake outta some old simax if I can brush off the cobwebs and chase the black widows off. Im sure grasshopper has the wisdom heh heh.... what color frosting do you want? Sprinkles are my choice. You lite the candles at AGI.
steve
timinny420
07-06-2005, 11:44 PM
adam - can you hook up some kiln cycles for us or is that in the dvd?
$$$$$$$
07-06-2005, 11:48 PM
I don't really use the kiln for much of my comb striking.
The Bigles
07-07-2005, 01:09 AM
Ok, you're all going to think I'm kidding and Adam might get pissed at me but I don't really care. I spent 5 days in Michigan at the shop that he works at and I watched him from a distance.
Adam fumes his point, then puffs it out, then dots it like everyone else. But then, BEFORE he condenses the bubble back down he spits on it! Seriously, I flipped out when I saw him do it. I thought he was just shit-faced wasted and being the total jackass that he normally is. But I watched him do it three seperate times and each time the results were megatron.
Now, don't get me wrong, it's not like he hawked a loogy on it or anything, he just "misted" it with saliva. I asked him about it and he was very quick to change the topic.
If you don't believe me go to glasspipes.org and look under the collab piece category. The midwest collab piece 2005 was made at this same shop. See that crazy looking PURPLE honeycomb atatchment on it? Adam made it and it's all fumed silver and a fine mist of his spit.
If you don't belive me go try it for yourself.
Adam's probably PMing the mods right now telling them to delete my post.
NUBBLET
07-07-2005, 03:31 AM
probably to change the core temp in spots , which greatly increases the striking and silver colors effect . You can also just touch it in spots (with tools) or blow on it . Although it may give trace minerals and hence greater effect . I bet more on the first one.
Mike_Aurelius
07-07-2005, 04:37 AM
Ok, just to add some confusion to the issue, the last issue of The Flow had an article on fuming, and the writer basically said if you wanted to make good fumes every time, use Kimble. Any thoughts on this?
broken glass
07-07-2005, 07:13 AM
The good thing about Kimble, is that silver reacts REAL good with this tube, I have not done a fume comb in a long time, but when I stick stacked some silver beach, in Kimble, it turned out sick like silver fume, ghost lines........when I do it with Eigenschaft, i get this wierd amber to see thru purple colors?? I was new to eigenschaft, and like the fact that youcan work it for a longer amount, but kimble does make the silver beach for one look dope as fuck, like a thick ghost fume lines.
broken glass
07-07-2005, 07:16 AM
What bigles forgets to say is that Adam has a cup full of his initial morning urine, and takes a swig, and then sprays the piece liberally with that mixture. Something about the chems in the first pee, i forget the exact science behind it, but has been proven to work
$$$$$$$
07-07-2005, 07:28 AM
:mad1: rigles check your inbox!!! :mad1:
NUBBLET
07-07-2005, 03:46 PM
Adam have you tried touching with tools or blowing on it ? Do this "mist" gig to some Amazon colors , youll be suprised by the results . I use a mist bottle , have you tried this ? If so , have you noticed a difference between spit mist and water mist ? I hope that is a joke about the piss , if not WHOA some nasty dedication . I , from your pic can see how this may be true though . Bitter Piss Face .
IrieGuy05
07-07-2005, 08:56 PM
Damn antony just gave away doods old family recipe for honeycombs...
Orrza
07-08-2005, 05:27 AM
Guys... are you sure it works?
I tried it all night long, with different amounts of spits and in the morning I went to collect my urine, Nothing!!
Did anyone see what his nutrition based on? It must be something about it...
Let me know please.
:rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin
:lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol
steven p selchow
07-08-2005, 08:46 AM
I like to submerge the whole piece underwater right outta the torch...gives this neat crackle appearance.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.0 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.