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slaughter
07-13-2014, 07:04 AM
What size blow tubes should i order??


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slaughter
07-13-2014, 07:05 AM
Sorry for posting twice, didnt know


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quix
07-13-2014, 07:08 AM
lol, 9.5mm, 12mm and 16mm. Depending on what you are making.

LooseSeal Baller
07-13-2014, 07:10 AM
for small hollow work i usually use 9.5 heavy wall, and for a little larger 12 mm heavy wall, and if you're going bigger probably 15-16mm heavy wall.

but for most stuff i use 9.5 heavy.

khan
07-13-2014, 07:25 AM
I do the same sizes that Berry uses but mid wall rather than heavy.... its just your preferance. I find the medium a little cheaper is all.

Khan

slaughter
07-13-2014, 07:38 AM
Simax, pyrex, kimble?


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art vandelay
07-13-2014, 07:43 AM
Should have told me I could have thrown in some 10 mm for u

slaughter
07-13-2014, 07:54 AM
Damn wish i would have known


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artisticdave
07-13-2014, 08:21 AM
9.5 x 2.0 for pretty much everything unless really large then 12 mil the brand is on you I use schott ba, simax and corning whatever is available at the time but prefer simax

LooseSeal Baller
07-13-2014, 08:22 AM
i try and pay around 2-3 dollars per lbs on clear whatever brand you choose.

quix
07-13-2014, 09:02 AM
you could probably use chinese for blowtubes and tearing rods. They come bundled in plastic so you can take them directly to the saw and cut a whole case down into blowtubes/tearing rods in a couple minutes.

dplaza
07-13-2014, 10:14 AM
yah i use china only for now, its super cheap and i get it dropped off so i dont have to pay shipping. thing is for blowtubes the glass is a bit shocky, if i score and snap a piece of 12.7 and then just dunk it straight in a hot flame sometimes a crack shoots down an inch or so and i have to pull it off. the price probably makes up for it but its a bit of wasted time having to pull off glass reopen the hole etc...

quix
07-13-2014, 11:26 AM
It might take less time to start farther out in the flame than it would to turn polishing a tube end into opening a hole etc. I polish two at a time and in bulk, all pre warmed in the kiln. After they are polished they will not crack. It takes way less time than schott because I do not have to bundle in order to cut them down and the price is 1/2 of schott.

slaughter
07-13-2014, 05:18 PM
Would i be able to pull a blow tube out of a larger tube?


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itssteve
07-13-2014, 05:23 PM
You could, but might as well just pull points then

artisticdave
07-13-2014, 05:45 PM
Pulling points are a good skill to have

slaughter
07-13-2014, 06:07 PM
Yeah i m pretty sure i know what your talking about but incase im wrong does anyone have a link to a video?


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Organik
07-13-2014, 06:11 PM
give this a view https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8no68RxYpNo

art vandelay
07-13-2014, 07:44 PM
imo pulling points is better than attaching blow tubes.

dplaza
07-14-2014, 01:48 AM
on no not the points and blowtubes thing again! haha i think the conclusion of every debate i've read about that on the internet is both are important to know and be able to do, and for certain processes one makes more sense than the other...

yah with the china blowtubes i learned to flash them in an annealing flame for a few seconds to avoid that cracking, but sometimes i forget :\ after i hit them with an annealing flame once it usually isn't that bad from then on out. i think the tubes are just really stressed right out of the box.

blueburnsorange
07-14-2014, 04:22 AM
I use china blowtubes too.... 9.5 and 10.

I've been using this method of opening them lately - getting pretty good at aiming for my water bucket too!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aq8KBB15FQo

Tj
07-14-2014, 05:26 AM
I still can't make a good one touch but using China 12mm I can make a shit one touch then pull some of the big tube out like a point, that way I can heat right to the tip of what was the big tube without shocking that weld.

Chewie
07-14-2014, 05:35 AM
I use 12mm heavy, it is a lot easier to fit my hose to than the 10mm. But anything 25mm or smaller I just make strait off the tube, saves a ton of time.

Kaizen
07-14-2014, 06:09 AM
12mm tubes for beginners. The more experience you get the smaller/thinner you can go. Unless you're makig massive rigs you won't need anything larger; no need to buy extra glass that you won't benefit from.

Matt Eskuche uses used points for his work.

dplaza
07-14-2014, 08:31 AM
when i started out i got a bunch of free glass and the only tube i got for blowtubes was like 7mmx1.5 or something like capillary tubing and i had to figure out how to attach that to 38x4. that was a fun challenge for a beginner!

i have large hands i feel like 12.7 fits in my hand better reduce cramping but i am a newb so maybe that explains it. i got some 9.5 schott i got to use for a product ill try it out as a blowtube tonight after work. i pull my points on 38x4 as thick as i can they end up about 10mm diameter not sure how thick.

BORO
07-14-2014, 08:50 AM
I actually learned something about points yesterday, It was in this emilo video ... starts at about 3:50


He talks about "necking" the point a.k.a. The way you pull out the wall thickness right where the point meets the tube vs. How much work you have to do at the end to clean up that area.

lots of good tricks in this video , talks about cold seals ect...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_CPx-q0FWM

The first lamp worked glass I ever held in my hands , and knew what it was, was emlio work... so, so, thin and perfect...may be the most "perfect" glass I have ever seen.