Unwanted encasement color reduction

[Burningsunsglass]

It's pretty much as the title implies. I work on a Carlisle cc and can't seem to get the striking right on encasements pieces. I read the flame chemistry recommended for each color and can always get the desired effect for smaller applications of the colors I use, which are primarily Northstar, but struggle with encasements. They generally appear with striated lines of an ugly tan reduction. I use to make serendipity encasements on a Carlisle at my last production job and didn't have this issue. Also not sure if it's worth mentioning but the encasements I'm struggling with are on clear not color tubing. I know Carlisle's aren't known for being easy on colors but there must be something I can do to help. Most recently I made an encasement piece with black lightening with just a super oxidizing inner flame, it took much longer to make and still became reduced. Can the ambient heat of large pieces effect the strike, if so how do I compensate for this? You can look at my stuff on instagram for a reference, I recently posted a bubbler with an encasement section with the same reduction issue. Someone please help.

[BORO]

72125 this?

[BORO]

We need more info.

1. What are your pressures at. ( I use 28 02 and 3-5 psi propane) , I used to use 6-7 psi propane and saw no advantage. Just more muddy colors.

2. How do you go about encasements ? Do you coat in clear? Do you vac it in a sleeve ? Do you draw the color on?

3. How do you prep the fume color before use? Have you read north star's directions for double Amber purple? Certain strikers need to be pre heated , and you burn off the extra haze FIRST...

4. Is it a #3 centerfire or a #5 ? All pre mix flames seem to be reducing. Keep that in mind. It is not uncommon for cc users to run the center 02 with no propane , when useing the outer fire on certain strikers..

5. What were the pressures at the old shop? Was it the same torch ? With the same size center? You REALLY did everything the same?

6. If you do not use a vacuum of some type to sleeve, your missing out on speed , and clean quality.

It almost looks like the fume is on the outside? Is it? Your exposing it to something if it's on the outside. < pre heating fume color when the piece in the rear of the flame ? (Sounds dumb , but anything is possible. )

[istandalone24/7]

my guess is that if you're getting lines of reduction between stripes of silver color, somehow you are working in a more reducing environment then usual. when i'm striping a silver color, i usually have to go back and blast any haze off the line i just layed, before laying the next one down.

also, under heavy encasement, most of the amber purple type colors won't "pop" as much. it's harder to get that bright shift of colors under a ton of clear. there are ways to do it though. some of the a/p's work better then others under encasement. for instance, GA's passion line seems to do better under encasement then NS's a/p's.
likewise, TAG's double mai tai, and mega mai tai are great under encasement.

your brand of clear matters as well. simax is the best for silver strikers.

[brads]

... I use to make serendipity encasements on a Carlisle at my last production job and didn't have this issue...

...Can the ambient heat of large pieces effect the strike, if so how do I compensate for this? ...

To take these two things in reverse order - yes, the longer cooling time of a large piece can overstrike the color by keeping it in the striking zone too long.

Were the encasements you did successfully at your previous job smaller/thinner, or the same size as the ones that aren't working now? If smaller, that may be your clue as to the problem.

[LooseSeal Baller]

crank that o2 pressure up to 40, prop @ 4-5, turn off center propane.

[BORO]

It looks like it is on the outside (if I read the o.p. Right )

If you are drawing on a clear coat with clear rod. I imagine the fume gets on the outside some. You later shape it , and that fume strikes , and gets pushed around into rings of fume.

If it Only happens on fume color pieces, I think that's it. (The tan ring looks like that )

If it just happens randomly , it may be a combination of bad and or rusty propane. And or traditional devit from over working it. And or a reducing flame. (The white mouthpiece looks like devit ) devit will spread and grow when you try to melt it in. fume will disappear , and reappear right next to where you were heating.<ymmv

Devit is ruff , fume is still pretty smooth most times.

[istandalone24/7]

i think you're correct, Boro, as that Black Lightening does fume surrounding glass pretty quick/easy.
i used it once in a dot stack on top of white, and the white got fume all over it. looked neat, but not what i wanted.

[Burningsunsglass]

Thanks to all who took interest and time to help. @BoRo
1. Oxy at 25~30 Psi propane at 5 Psi
2. I draw the color on
3. I do make a habit of reading notes or instructions. The only prepping I do is test the color with flame I intend to use to see how it reacts first.
4. #3 premix/I have worked with inner propane off for honey combs with darkmulti have not tried this with these encasements yet.
5. Pressures were indeed the same, however when I left I did buy a new Carlisle.
6. I do not have a vaccum for encasements yet.

Lastly the fume is on the outside, from the encasement section when I was sealing the wigwag section.

Thank you all again for your insight and concideration. I certainly have a few things to try out. I will be back at it again in a few hours and will post again with the results.