Kiln Races!!

[PyroChixRock]

Aim 9169gs on 220

0-975 in 24 mins! On solar power! :)

Can you beat me? :devilish:

Edit: Time your kilns to 1050 so we all go to the same point. I will retime mine.

[Oncebrokenglass]

I would like to know more about your solar setup...can you share some details. I am in the process of building a off the grid shop. Thanks

[gomilobster]

Indeed^^^

[PyroChixRock]

Sure! But first go time your kiln haha. Kiln races! :bouncy:

(I have to ask Kris. I've no clue :lol)

[paulsafo]

Paragon F-130 0-1050° in 24 minutes :) dedicated 120

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/04/662e8f44aebb833a08341c2c421d91a2.jpg

[PyroChixRock]

So far the line up goes:

Aim 9169 (16x9x9) on 220/solar - 24 mins to 975.
Paragon F-130 (13x11x11) on 120/grid - 24 mins to 1050.

[KLAW]

Well sweetie... our solar system is on the grid connected(the power we make goes into the grid & we draw from the grid, everything is kept track of and at the end of the year we either pay for anything we used that we didn't create enough to cover or We Get Paid (at like 1/15th what they would of charged us to use that same amount of power) ...If our system is big enough/we used less then we created. So we litteraly use the same power source as someone without solar(or as before we got it installed). Oh and also if our solar goes down we still got normal power from the grid, however the grid goes down we have two "Zombie Plugs" that work when the suns out.

Now if we had a battery bank (& I def want to start building one for emergency situations) and we charged those batteries up we would be "off the grid"...So Apocalypse times come we basically just need to start collecting a shit ton of car batteries and we are all good(otherwise we only have our two "Zombie plugs" that work if the power goes out...& those two circuits could run quite afew things with our 10kW+ system while the sun is out.

OK NOW BACK TO KILN RACES!!! :)

Our other kiln is actually that same Paragon F-130, so tech we have both the kilns on the list so far and can compare the two side by side tomorrow.

BUT FIRST I SAY WE SET AT LEAST ONE RULE/SOME RULES!:
-How about just to round to a single number...say 1050* (Since fairly a fairly common preset.)

-Also must put Brand & Full Model Name (#helps best though).
(Because for instance some F-130s are dif...There's the F-130 "Digital Set Point" (w/elements just in top), the F-130 "Analog" (w/elements in the sides), F-130 Elites (w/elements in the sides & a Sentry 3 Button Controller)...and custom combos of each...So yeah Model & Details go a long way.)

-The Volts, Amps & Watts would be optimal...

-The Height,Width & Depth Sizes in Inches...

-& Full Speed Warm Up



So we will try both our kilns out tomorrow & give results to 1050* :
-AIMS 9169, 220volt, 30Amp (estimated abt 2400wts...will figure out later)
&
-Paragon F-130 w/Top Element & Sentry 3Button Digital Controller, 120v, 20amp & 2400watt

And see how long they take to get to 1050*


~~THE KILN RACES ARE ON!!!~~

[Carl]

Looking forward to legging out my new horse in this. (assuming customs aren't barred from entry :) )

I got (2) 2400W 10A elements on a 240V circuit in a 12x9x16 (1.00 cubic foot).

How 'bout making it an Olympics and adding events like Least Power Draw Per Cubic Foot to maintain 1000F?

[Tj]

Hey KLAW you see that Tesla battery yet.
F130 on 110 I'll not be doing any races with that setup.

[gomilobster]

From what I understand, you would want something more like a bank of deep cycle RV style batteries, but its been years since I have looked into it for living on the bus/out at the farm I was at. Isn't there supposed to be some fancy tesla house battery on the market soon? neat article... I will get on to timing my 99ls analog with a sentry 3 key added to it later :)


EDIT:

Hah someone just posted about it before me... then I found a few interesting links.

http://seekingalpha.com/article/3132996-the-silliness-of-teslas-10kwh-back-up-battery

http://rameznaam.com/2015/04/14/energy-storage-about-to-get-big-and-cheap/

[ThreeE]

Ambient (73f) to 1,000f in 7m29s. Passed 1050f at 8m exactly. Paragon sc2 w/o bead door, 120v, interior dimensions 8" x 7.75" x 5.75"

[PyroChixRock]

Thanks for the solar info honey. I think they wanted info on our system like how many panels and what type and what it produces.

I'm pretty sure I told you that I've run a house and shop off the grid before with solar and generators. We had lots of batteries but not lots of panels so we used the generators for the shop a lot. It was really expensive and a pain to run and maintain but it was also 16 years ago. Things have greatly improved lol.

Kiln races! Sounds good but instead of 1000 degrees we need to time it to either 975 or 1050 which is what most people have their kilns set to go up to. I don't want to inconvienence anyone by having to change their kiln settings which is why I went with the lower temp. But since there's 2 people at 1050 let's say everyone goes to 1050.

We have a new entry! I'll post the line up in the next post.

Ps Carl of course customs can be entered! :) Just include the inner dimensions and outlet output so we have a good idea how to compare. I like the power draw idea. You'd have to have a gadget to measure though. We have one but I doubt most people have one lying around haha. those of us that do can enter our info. Would be great to have.

[PyroChixRock]

So far the line up goes:


Misha - Aim 9169 (16x9x9) on 240 - 24 mins to 975.
Paul - Paragon F-130 (13x11x11) on 120 - 24 mins to 1050.
Three - Paragon sc2 w/o bead door, (8x7.5x5.75) on 120 - 8 mins to 1050



Since we have two to 1050 I will retime mine today to 1050. I wanted to time it multiple times anyway to see if there was much change.

[PyroChixRock]

So I meant to try to take the time at 1000 degrees also but I got distracted. It hit 1050 at 22mins this time. Less time to go higher on the second reading. I will take another tomorrow.

[KLAW]

OK SO KILN RACE STUFF:
So 1050* then at full ramp up it is...

OK SO SOLAR STUFF(really if we want to keep going might need another thread on this one):
As for our solar system questions, things are not cut and dry... We have somewhere around 43x250wh panels, thing is due to the shape of our roof only about 2/3rds are optimally facing. We were supposed to have an 11KWH system (44 panels, but could not fit the last planned panel due to laws about available space to walk around them) Our system was improperly hooked up fully for the first couple months and only was getting half what it was supposed to (teaching new instal techs) and timing of the instal matters greatly weather wise(which is why they calculate by the solar year). But our system is working 100% now and even with the first couple months racking up our meter, we are about to hit Zero TODAY and the meter should start running backwards...saving us money for until we start using more electricity (summer A/C)(but we have central air to help until it's 115* mid summer :() Then there is Winter's less light creation. Thus the bill (or check to us) at the end of a solar year... Now... With our messed up first months, our first "solar year" isn't going to be a full representation of our systems capabilities. Also we did much less glass this year then planned for next (less kiln electricity and with the HVO's oxygen electricity (which ain't really crap compaired to tanked now that it's all paid off :D) So all in all, if we break even or made more solar this year then we might be in good shape...

It's next year where those first optimal months for creating solar power (spring & fall...not full summer because a little cloud cover helps production) are used properly and we have done a "normal" year of glass working, that we will know if we are making money...or just drastically saving it. Our city gave out a deal to like 10,000 (maybe just a 1k) people (that were all gone in less then 2weeks) where they took up to $1k dollars off instantly for every 1kwh of your system, so at our 10.whatever kWh system we instantly paid $10k less then we would of had to normally. Also the banks will do deals where your monthly payments on the solar system (if a size that should cover your full needs) are matched up to your exact average monthly electrical bill would of been! So with basically our down payment paid for by the city being lucky enough to get a voucher, we are paying the same roughly (unless we end up not making enough at the end of the solar year and have to make a payment then) and in an estimated 6yrs (Prob would of been 10 if wern't for the lucky ticket:)) we will be all home free and paying next to nothing (or even getting paid) there after until maintenance/replacement is required(estimated 20yr until panel replacement life...not inverters they should be good/minimally fixable for a very long time).

It's kind of like my HVO (or even newer Truck at the time)...I made the investment when I could, paid it all off...and just so happens that have a pretty bad year the next year and was unable to work and had to empty my savings. Now I don't think I could jump back into K-tank to k-tank prices and it's going to allow me to slowly work as needed instead of work my ass off for that extra oxygen money(that my body and mind won't allow currently) and that $400 on oxygen I was spending before (let's just say at a k tank a day to show extremes) is now like at least $375 a month in my pocket.

Now as for the Tesla Power Packs... Anyone w/just solar panels, freaking great...fill it durring the day and use at night, back up emergency power,etc. Now people without solar of any type, still benefits...one obviously emergency back up power(though not much enough to get you through an emergency on bare minimums like say your fridge until power comes back, AND and ability to Save Money Long Term Too! By filling at night when power is WAY cheaper generally and using it durring the day... No Matter What Its GREENER...So I see Many benefits. Prices on electrical storage (wether straight battery pack or compressing air through solar to run turbines) will continue to get cheaper and fossil fuels will get higher.

Personally I think our world is dying (yeah more threads to discuss:D) because of our unlocking of natural fuels and high carbon foot print that would not naturally (w/the events we have recorded) of been released by now. Melting ice caps quicker (yes tot natural...but question is will the cycle continue and re freeze with what we released early (or might never of been released again?)...even if it was going to be just one more cycle(or a thousand) is there a chance we have/are going to end those cycles now?) Guess it comes down to if you want to risk it for your future generations... I say shame on the ones that it's absolutely no financial risk to go greener and props to those that take the risk when they are right on the edge of financial risk and super mad props to those living a 100% natural life in the woods! Well yeah that's that enough rambling about solar, might try to have this stuff moved to a new thread because I know many people find it very interesting and there are many side topics.

[Nomad]

I would have to time it again tomorrow. But I believe my Aim 99ls with external digital controller heats up in about 15 minutes to 1050 degrees.
I have it wired to a 20 amp braker and the controller is a 20 amp controller. It is really fast with this electric.

[Oncebrokenglass]

Thanks for sharing your solar setup. Not gonna work for me since I can't tie into the grid, be still interesting. I do like the idea of a separate solar thread...

[Nomad]

The controller helps it get hotter faster because it regulates the temperature better. I had it with the infinite controle switch and I had to turn it down when it got to 1000 degrees or it would get too hot.

[Nomad]

I had it plugged into a 15 amp braker and it would take like 30 minutes to heat up before. It take half the amount of time with the new electric I installed. I used the yellow wire and a 20 amp outlet and braker. I made it faster. I think it draws more then 14.5 amps now with the new controler on it.

[Carl]

I had it plugged into a 15 amp braker and it would take like 30 minutes to heat up before. It take half the amount of time with the new electric I installed. I used the yellow wire and a 20 amp outlet and braker. I made it faster. I think it draws more then 14.5 amps now with the new controler on it.

that 14.5 amps used to be going through wire only intended to carry 12 amps continuously. (15A at 80%=12A).

Good thing ya upgraded 'cause that's danger you were playing with there and I bet your 14 gauge wire was gettin' pretty warm when the kiln was getting up to temp. (unless it was 12 gauge wire that was just wired to a 15A breaker which is still not good but way better)

[CheeseNip]

Ooo, I Wanna play, but I have a relay out in my kiln. Using a buddies small Paragon until I get my relays. I'll time his tomorrow when I ramp up again, and will time my Paragon F-500 when I get my relays. I have a feeling I'll be dead last with the F-500. Lol. I'd guess it takes around 45 minutes to heat up, but we'll see for sure soon!

[Nomad]

24 minutes to heat to 1050. 15 minutes to get to 900. 20 minutes to get to 1000. For my Aim 99 ls with external 20 amp digital controller.
I timed it this morning for you to be exact. I start working when it gets to 900 and by the time I have a spoon done it is up to temp. but if I heat up a milli it takes a little longer.
My F-120 took like 45 minutes to heat up milli and ready to make a spoon. I hated it. I think it was because it was so old. So I replaced it.

[PyroChixRock]

So far the line up goes:


Misha - Aim 9169 (16x9x9) on 240 - 24 mins to 975.
Paul - Paragon F-130 (13x11x11) on 120 - 24 mins to 1050.
Three - Paragon sc2 w/o bead door, (8x7.5x5.75) on 120 - 8 mins to 1050
Misha - Aim 9169 (16x9x9) on 240 - 22 mins to 1050.
Nomad - Aim 99ls on 120 - 15 mins to 900. 20 mins to 1000. 24 mins to 1050.

[Keegs]

glass hive regular guy (6 1/2" deep x 18" wide x 4" tall) with one punty door on 120 - 18 min to 1050

[PyroChixRock]

Another reading

975 - 15 mins
1000 - 16 mins
1050 - 22 mins

Set point is 1050. Relay kicked off/on at 1020 (16.5 mins) and kiln started trying to stabilize. Went to 1040, back to 1019, then up to 1050 at 22 mins, then bounced around down to 1004. Thats a substantial swing. I think my controller needs to be calibrated. Time to call Fuji! Maybe I'll have different measurements after I do that.

[brads]

Which Fuji do you have Misha? Most have auto-tuning capability. Since the PXR series is one that a lot of people use, and I think your Aim 9169gs uses the PXR3, here is the auto-tuning procedure for those. What this sheet doesn't mention is that you need to be at or near the temperature you are tuning the annealer for. So heat it up to 1040 before starting auto-tune.

74240

There are some other things that can contribute to large swings, especially if you are using a controller with an electro-mechanical relay, but I won't go into them right now since it may just be that your controller needs to be tuned.

Brad

[brads]

Oh, and speaking of temperature swings. All else being equal, a high powered kiln that uses an electro-mechanical relay will suffer from larger temperature swings at its setpoint than an otherwise identical lower powered one. So a super fast heat-up isn't always a good thing.

[PyroChixRock]

I just switched the controller out a couple months ago. I'd have to look to see what it is. I'll check it out soon.

I switched my kiln from 120 to 240 in 2008ish because it's more stable at set point. And costs less to keep it there. Or that's what john at aim told me anyway. It seems to be the case but I've never plugged it into the gauge that reads how much it uses, all I have are estimates over times and observations of how the kiln performed before and after. I prefer 240.

Thanks for the help. I hope I have auto tune. :)

[PyroChixRock]

Sweet! It has auto tune and is calibrating it now. Thanks for saving me a phone call. Anyone who knows me well will tell you how much I don't like making calls. Too many years on a cc and I can't hear as well as I should.

I'll time it tomorrow again and see what the difference is.

[Wilbur]

Paragon f-200

28 minutes to 1051

Read 71 when I started the full ramp program.

[PyroChixRock]

So far the line up goes:


Misha - Aim 9169 (16x9x9) on 240 - 24 mins to 975.
Paul - Paragon F-130 (13x11x11) on 120 - 24 mins to 1050.
Three - Paragon sc2 w/o bead door, (8x7.5x5.75) on 120 - 8 mins to 1050
Misha - Aim 9169 (16x9x9) on 240 - 22 mins to 1050.
Nomad - Aim 99ls on 120 - 15 mins to 900. 20 mins to 1000. 24 mins to 1050.
keegs - glass hive regular guy (6.5x18x4) with one punty door on 120 - 18 min to 1050
Misha - Aim 9169 (16x9x9) on 240 - 15 mins to 975, 16 mins to 1000, 22 mins to 1050
Wilbur - Paragon f200 - 28 mins to 1051



Hey Wilbur, are you on 120 or 240 and do you have dimensions on the kiln? :)

[matrixmechanics]

Aim 9169gs on 220

0-975 in 24 mins! On solar power! :)

Can you beat me? :devilish:


Edit: Time your kilns to 1050 so we all go to the same point. I will retime mine.


Hiya, can I please also get some more info on your solar setup? I would like some insight and pointers since I plan to go off grid as well. Thank you.
I'm willing to chat over the phone, text, facebook or just pm on here, I am very serious about going off of the grid and am gathering as much information about the process and what others have done.

[PyroChixRock]

Hiya, can I please also get some more info on your solar setup? I would like some insight and pointers since I plan to go off grid as well. Thank you.
I'm willing to chat over the phone, text, facebook or just pm on here, I am very serious about going off of the grid and am gathering as much information about the process and what others have done.

Start by reading this. :) Things just got a whole lot easier for us to go off grid. http://www.computerworld.com/article/2917479/sustainable-it/tesla-announces-gigawatt-scaling-commercial-battery-and-a-home-battery-system-for-3500.html

[dustyg]

Tesla's home batteries are already sold out through 2016.

[OceanMelt]

Elon Musk is the man. A single dude, making so much positive change in the world. Greater good > mass profit = better world.

[PyroChixRock]

He's my hero. :D

[OceanMelt]

I almost got a job at SpaceX last year (a dream company for me), unfortunately it didn't work out, which was heartbreaking, but I never would have started flameworking, so it worked out...for the better :)

Cheers to all you fine people rocking the solar!!

[Wilbur]

My f200 is 240 , top elements only, ( with one section of broken out brick on roof and some loose/ stapled in element action)

24" in wide, 15" deep and 8 in tall. Awesome productoin kiln. Me and my shop mate can both comfortably work out of it, each having a nearly a whole foot of handle/punty door space. Any stand up pieces/ tubes are just annealed on their side, as a rarely make a bubble/can that has a flat spot of more 4 1/2 in.

[brads]

Sweet! It has auto tune and is calibrating it now. Thanks for saving me a phone call. Anyone who knows me well will tell you how much I don't like making calls. Too many years on a cc and I can't hear as well as I should.

I'll time it tomorrow again and see what the difference is.

Thought I would check to see if tuning helped at all with the temperature swings Misha. If not, there are some other possibilities.

[PyroChixRock]

I don't know yet. I had to do a lot of driving today instead of blowing glass yet. Still hoping to get out there. I will post as soon as I have a new reading. Thanks for checking on me brad. :)

[PyroChixRock]

Here's another reading. I forgot to change the set point to 1050, but I will try to remember tomorrow.

66 start, set point 975
975 - 15.5 mins
Relay kicked in at - 970
Up to 980
Dropped to 960
Up to 992
Dropped to 969
Up to 972
Dropped to 964
Up to 982
Dropped to 975
Up to 978

These clicks/fluctuations happen over a few seconds. It stabilized faster today after the calibration in 20 mins, but SP was lower.

I will calibrate it again for 975 and see what happens tomorrow.

[matrixmechanics]

Thank you for the info. :)

[metalbone]

Another Paragon SC2 run; with Bead Door; built in 2002; ramp set to full.

62 degrees to 1050 degrees F, 12 minutes, 2 seconds

Looks like my SC2 is considerably slow than some of the others.

[James Sowell]

9169 gs/d on 110
takes about 1 hour 10 mins to hit 1050
just a bit of a turtle
works fine once its up to temp

[metalbone]

f130 on 120v, built 2010, full ramp.
61-1050 degrees F: 22 minutes, 49 seconds

[CheeseNip]

My buddies little Paragon "Toaster Kiln" with a DTC 800 digital controller took 27 mins on the dot. Has 4 elements in the roof, and bead doors which were added aftermarket, and was originally an analog kiln, but has been switched over to digital. Still haven't gotten my new relays yet, but will post up my f-500's time when I get them!

[PyroChixRock]

I remembered to set the kiln to 1050 today, then forgot to watch it and started blowing glass. :lol

Tomorrow. :)

[khan]

Ive done that same thing Misha.... hahah

Three times..!!!

Khan

[snoopdog6502]

Paragon caldera digital with expansion collar,120vac 20amp circuit, 63F-1050F, 8 x 8 x 13 23 minutes 22 seconds.

[gomilobster]

I remembered to set the kiln to 1050 today, then forgot to watch it and started blowing glass. :lol

Tomorrow. :)

This has happened to me twice, I kinda gave up on it and now I am halfway across the country for a week or so... bah!

[Keegs]

haha yeah the first few days I kept on doing that too... putting my timer on my marver helped remind me "nevermind that glass butterfly were on a mission!" :dieslaugh

[snoopdog6502]

I did the same thing several times, stated the torch and never timed the kiln . this time I used my laptop as a stopwatch and did some cleaning of the bench and sorting out rod and colors for a while, clean the Oxycon pre-filter,sweep the floor,,

[PyroChixRock]

73 start, set point 1050
975 - 16 mins
1000 - 17 mins
1050 - 19 mins
Relay kicked in at - 1051
Up to 1057
Dropped to 1045
Up to 1058
Dropped to 1040
Up to 1069
Dropped to 1040
Up to 1058
Stable within 24 mins

[jusbag]

28.5min on an old tired 99ls. Hydroelectric power :P.

[Northwinds Glass]

23 minutes 50-1050
2002 9169 GS/D 240 with an updated fuji
Had one punty door open

[crsaz]

Skutt scarab
Start 85. 24 minutes to 1050

[LooseSeal Baller]

home built kiln interior 9.25w x 9d x 11h, k26 soft fire brick, 14 amps 1600 watts, hits 538 C (1000 F) in about 40 minutes...not winning any races! but it was cheap to build and holds temp really well.

one thing i want to add is the cubic inches, if this is a real race that is important, i think there should be classes or something like in real racing...lol

my cubic inches 915.75...9.25x9x11, also the watts are important imo because thats what we all pay for...except those crazy solar people...lol j/k :o:

[Zork]

"The original toolbox bead annealer" 83-1050. 15:51. (Always wondered, thanks for the motivation). Will time the paragon as soon as it gets back to the shop.

[Dan Kooper]

My paragons (same models same settings) are different. The middle one is the fastest.
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m218/dankshizzle/20150516_115819_zpstnpcfwtr.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/dankshizzle/media/20150516_115819_zpstnpcfwtr.jpg.html)
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m218/dankshizzle/20150516_120857_zpsw0wyyi9v.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/dankshizzle/media/20150516_120857_zpsw0wyyi9v.jpg.html)
Took like 20 minutes to hit 1050

[PyroChixRock]

Bump for more entries :)

[PyroChixRock]

Bump. lets get more kiln info gathered :D

[JBob]

my analog aim is kind of slow, but my glasshive took a good deal less then half hour on a 110 and was 12x9x9 no solar power though. it also busted elements several times..

the aim though takes like 40 minutes..

[brads]

Winning the race isn't always a good thing...

I came looking for this thread after another one I'm engaged in about SSRs and SCRs reminded me of it. And, surprise surprise, the post immediately before this one gives me the perfect setup to make the point I intended. That point is that a kiln that heats very quickly can put more stress on heating elements than one that heats slower. The faster kiln will DEFINITELY stress the elements more if both kilns are operating at the same voltage, using the same number of elements, and are roughly the same size with similar insulation, or if most of those are true but the faster kiln is larger.

If your kiln is so high powered that it goes from 0-1000 in 60 seconds, it is unlikely your elements will last very long. Note that Robert said his higher powered kiln has toasted not just one, but several sets of elements. An annealer should NOT be losing elements like this. A wire heated glass furnace, where the elements are operating at - and often over - their design limits would be expected to go through elements regularly. A well designed annealer should not. I have several annealers, two of which are pretty good size, and used for furnace work. My large annealers take roughly 45 minutes to get to temperature. My youngest annealer is nearly 25 years old. None has ever lost a set of elements. (Okay, I did lose a set in a small bead annealer when I had an accidental meltdown after the dial controller malfunctioned. But it was contact with molten glass that killed those elements, not normal wear and tear.)

So having the fastest kiln in the land isn't necessarily a good thing unless you enjoy replacing elements. A quick and easy eyeball test is really all you need to see if an element failure is likely to be in your future. When your kiln is heating up at full power and in the 700-900 degree neighborhood, open the door and look at the elements. If they are glowing red or orange you should be fine. But if they are glowing bright yellow, it would be very wise to always keep at least one extra set of elements on hand. If the elements are red or orange with several very bright yellow areas, better make sure you know where those spare elements are right now. You're likely to need them soon.

An overpowered kiln will also have a harder time holding a steady setpoint, especially if it uses an electro-mechanical relay for power control.

And last, Robert I'm surprised to hear your Glasshive was going through elements that frequently. Although I've never had any personal experience with them, everything I've seen and heard indicates that Glasshive makes very nice equipment. I would suggest checking to see if your power relay may be sticking, even more so if it's never been replaced. That can cause element problems.

[James Sowell]

Awesome info ^^^

[dplaza]

i have an analog 99ls and i have always just set it to 5. i think it takes less than an hour to get to 1050. if i set it to 10 it heats up pretty quick but then when i try to turn it back down to idle, it will not have enough heat mass to stay warm and drop down. setting it to 5 allows me to not fool with the kiln for over an hour before it gets really hot, then i just adjust down til i get my desired garage temp. it holds a pretty steady temp at that point the bricks are all pretty warm. i dont think it will go much over 1200 at half power, thats the highest i've ever let it go tho.

ill time it today i never really gave it much thought.

[bowlpusher]

I will test the Scarab in the morning. Might have to put some racing stripes on it.

[Nomad]

I got a digital controller for my aim 99 ls off this site and I love it. I can turn it to high and the temp is regulated. Heats up to 900 in 15 minutes and I start working . It is up to 1050 in 20-25 minutes. Take 30 minutes to heat up with milli.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PyroChixRock]

Drew is right, super fast kiln heat up time isn't good. But, it was a clever way to get a lot of information on a bunch of different kilns. :devilish:

I'd still love to have more! We can compile this into a chart later on. :D

[istandalone24/7]

paragon bluebird xl takes maybe 40 minutes to get to 1050 (my garage temp). might be a little less then that, i usually fire the kiln up and head out for a large iced coffee, by the time i'm back (maybe 30 mins) it's at 900ish and it's time to get it on.

[dplaza]

just set mine to hi and got 1084 in 37 minutes