Fear of Flaring

[xTheGongx]

Ok, so I'm starting to move on to I/O stuff (at least trying) and I'm having a pretty difficult time learning the art of flaring. I have no problem flaring out just the end of a 32mm point, but any farther than that, and things start to get a little wonky. I'm currently using a small octagon reamer for flaring, and I'm wondering if I just need a bigger reamer, or if this is something that I should easily be able to do with a small reamer?

Also, do most of you marver the flare back down, or do you just let gravity do its thing?
I'm sure I'm making this harder than it really is, but I'm stuck.

Any help would be much appreciated!!

j

[jusbag]

I barely flare the end just so that i don't fry my knuckle with the flame. and I pretty much use gravity to close it back up. it'll usually close faster if you hold it so that the opening is pointing down... oh and when I get a good heat into it and its starting to close i usually quicken the process with my tweezers... I usually only marver it down if it is a big opening(44mil and up)... I am sure after doing a few you will find a process that works for you though. mostly just whatever tools you got lying around that are gonna help :)... have fun!

oh yeah, since you are using 32 you might want to just puff a little bubble then open the end of that and sort of flare it... that way you will have more "canvas" in there to work with. just be carefull not to make the walls too thin(makes it hard to draw on the inside without distorting everything)

[medicatedMELTDOWN]

try blowing a big bubble thats already close to the flare shape so you wont have to flare as much

[xTheGongx]

So, maybe I'm flaring too big. I'm flaring those bitches out like martini glasses, otherwise I can't art the inside, cause I just can't get the right angle.

[bizzy]

Try using some larger tubing...

[jusbag]

yeah, you'll learn how to get the art inside without flaring too big... recently i have noticed that if i use a small flame that has more oxy than propane(kind of a transparent flame) it is quite a bit cooler and will melt the stringer slower letting you have more control while drawing and also minimizes how hot the point gets... helps a lot on outside stuff too like reti's...

[xTheGongx]

Ok, condensing the point and the blowing a bubble is definately the way to go. Just went out and tried. What took me 15 minutes to do before just took about a minute. Everything comes out even, and condenses back down pretty evenly. Why didn't I even consider that before? Guess it was just too obvious.
Man, that's what I love about this place, ask and ye shall receive.

Thank you very much to everyone that took the time to read and comment. :)

j.

[The Bigles]

I'm assuming you're using heavy wall? I'd say get some standard wall, or at least medium wall if you're afraid of the word "standard". Basically you're buying "pre-puffed out" tube. And you don't have to pull points. You just stick a solid handle on the closed end of the tube, rip off a section, pop it open, and spin it fast a couple of times and it will open up (flare) for you. You don't need a reamer, just physics. (The same goes for flaring out tubing of any thickness, just incredibly easy with standard wall).

Try some 38 x 2 for your bats and small spoons and a little larger tubing for your big spoons.


*was going to type more but some friends just stopped by so I gotta go. maybe I'll finish later.

[goboroglass]

I'm half with Bigles, let physics flare for you, just make sure your blowtube is nice and straight and spin that mother... it'll open faster than, well no funny joke at the time. I use heavy wall, like 44x4 and after you get the hang of it flaring is no problem, like all things in glass just do it over and over till the motions are instinct. Closing the flare with gravity is the slickest way to go too, just hold the blowtube perpindicular to the bench and spin super even, but not fast enough to keep the flare open.

[xTheGongx]

I've tried using a solid handle instead of pulling points, and if I'm not super vigilant about keeping it all nice and toasty, it pops off right in my lap. I definately find pulling points is easier now that I've figured out how to keep them straight and how to keep the shoulder of the handle thick. The only real problem now is just learning to close the end up cleanly while melting in the color. I definately feel that I've made more progress today than I have in the pst 3 months or so.

When we get settled In Springfield, I hope to get a few lessons from someone (hint hint :) )

BTW - I'm using heavy wall.


j.

[NUBBLET]

when you flare with the flame , hit the inside of the tube with a forceful pushing flame , meaning more oxy than feul . First get the whole tube to flare hot , a semi bushy flame is good for this , then go inside with the forceful flame and spin fast enough and it will flare nice , tutorials has Eugene Rain doing one in vid . To close go straight along the torch body with the blowtube (above not touching ) tilt it at about a 45 degree angle from the bench and do the same thing , nice even heat base then hit the outside with a nice forceful flame ( I semi paddle just occasionally touching making sure it goes smooth and quick (anal). Use your tweezers or needle nose and close the last 10mm or so hole if you want , then pick the end off to clean it up . You pick the end either way , it helps clean the look of the close , bringing it down tight and spiraled (or straight if desired) , makes all the end lines come small and together . blet-blet

[Greymatter Glass]

To achieve the flare, you must BE the flare.

[xTheGongx]

There is no spoon

[NUBBLET]

The vid is large foot flare , and may be viewed here . (http://www.thegldg.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113)

[xTheGongx]

Very cool, It makes more sense seeing it. I gotta get another torch,.........and some talent.

BTW - what is that shield he's using on the point?

[Greymatter Glass]

It's a cardboard circle or paper plate covered in tin foil with an X shape cut in the center of it... they're great for big stuff.

-Doug

[NUBBLET]

it is a heat shield , to protect his hands . They sell them , there was some guy that posted a link where to get them , but they run like 100$ . A few ( including myself) pointed out if you hit your local bakery and get an apple pie for 5$ , you get dessert AND a heat shield , just drill (or punch ) a hole in the middle , smooth the edge and slap a 50cent grommet on it , change the dia of blowtube or rod by a larger (or smaller) hole and a different 50 cent grommet , or there is MY favorite way and just get another apple pie and make two or a dozen . Smaller versions are available for 69cents plus the grommet cost , these are called Pot Pies ,dinner and a heat shiled . To sum it up , you get dinner ,dessert and two size heat shileds for around 7 $ and some minor labor .

[PyroChixRock]

Or, you could do what we did...cut a circle out of cardboard and cover it in paper. ;)

[NUBBLET]

Or some tin foil would work nicely , as a cover to the cardboard . The pie pans have that lip which does a good amount of deflecting to the heat , but either would do the trick . With the cardboard order pizza , then you still get dinner and a heat shield . ;)

[xTheGongx]

mmmmmmmm.......pie.

See, now you've said it. I gotta have pie now.
Wonder which has better heat resisting properties? Apple or Pecan?

[IrieGuy05]

If your talking about protecting the hand that is doing the flaring and holding the graphite, there are 1 or 2 places that carry the regular 1 ft and then 2 foot graphite rods. At first I thought wtf are people cutting them in half or are they for scientific workers or what. Then I tried to flare some 50 hw with a regular carbon rod that was a little short cause the end broke off and I burnt the shit out of my hand. So then I thought about those bigass carbon rods and I understood why.

[grade A glassworks]

hello to all .

[jiminyrootkit]

i'd go pecan, gong ;)
definately pecan.
-f

[Sol]

no more burned knuckles...bomb-diggity