Herbie Tune

[bluntpanda]

Greetings I lost my other account name here but anywho I'm looking to have a Herbie tuned preferably in the Eugene area because shipping would increase costs. Thanks for looking and any information you can share :)

[Kovacs Glass]

Hey,

I know it's a while off, but I will be in Eugene from June-August. I've tuned a couple herbies from a natural gas over to propane.

If you don't find someone in the mean time, hit me up around then and I'll sort it or for you :)

[bluntpanda]

I should clarify some things I apologize for the shorthand only having access to a phone. The propane to oxygen ratio don't see to be quite right. It's noticeable to the point where 3rd stage is an annealing flame. Another potential problem or cause is that the propane reducer doesn't seem to quite fit American fittings. I'm not sure if the previous owner was aware or I'm just weird but it feels just slightly loose. I'm not sure if this may be a potential cause of the incorrect function.

[BORO]

p.m. me , I will reluctantly walk you through it....


I dont have time, but good karma seems to rule my world.

give me specifics , is it a psl? a esl? 40mm?

In a p.m. , every time I offer I get a 100 p.m.'s .....

we can even talk on the telly. (p.m. for # )


or,pay to ship it out to jason,or me,but we r in ny.

as far as the fittings, after the pancake ,its less than a # of gas pressure. build a glass adaptor barb. issue solved.

[BORO]

in the mean time, no p.m. needed ,


see the top three hex keys. most have a blue knob top in left key(new school) , or a allen key in the top left (3 hex for a 40mm or 50mm ) (4 hex for a 65mm )

Anyways...... see the top hex, furthest to the right. Open that hex , as its running with all three stages lit, slowly....... wa la. problem solved.

if it ruins your smaller flames , tune biggest to smallest, one at a time. only adjusting the top three/4 hex keys on the main body. I'm willing to bet your top outer "biggest" oxygen hex its too far closed.(hex key on top furthest to the right) the top keys control 02 to each stage.

Your welcome.

[Swim]

funny thing is that it is so damn easy to tune one of these ESL's. Jason H just tuned my PSL, but I have not recieved it back in the mail, I guess we will see whats up with it.

[BORO]

^after you tuned your own 40's , and 50's.

After you know what to do....

I'm real interested in a review of his tune. You and I know your Psl was "well used".... If he makes it shine, I'm a fan for life. Next in line. I'm just skeptical, after all you and I are not novice when it comes to the h.a.

Will be pumped if he can tune out the "issues" we each deal with daily. (all from high hours/use)

I did make a 2 page buyers guide the day the sight server crashed... Even with all my previews, it still went poof.

Soon soon, I will find another 2-3 hours to put it together again.

Its all about the face.... Every other part can be serviced by the user....


Long story short... Make sure your face is mint. (thread jack I know)

Not worn holes. Or warped rings... Stay away if it looks like this. 82627Look close at that face picture. See the extra gaps on each ring where they meet. See the rings, see they are warped. They don't fit together, the wrong ratio is released.. No way to tune it out... Bummer

Even if the body is rusted on the outside ,a face/head like this, surly has low hours/use. Any user can clean up the body/valves... Even this second picture of this ESL... Your in bizz..
82628


Other than rust from air with no dryer, not much you can do to hurt these torches. Buyers guide comming soon. Soon as I get some time... I will include all the best things to look for and avoid..... Should have just posted it, not waited , and fought the server crash last week...

Silly I.p.a.'s worth the buzz. Not worth looking like a ass hat? (perhaps I.have a skewed view if myself? At least this post will insure I follow through on my word.. ) still need to post up build pics for the fishing top water lures....

Just need to manage my time better... Soon soon . (lol)

[bluntpanda]

Greetings I appreciate all the help! I seem to have trouble uploading photos from my phone. This is a 50mm the face appears to be in good condition. One of the problems is the fitting going from the pancake reducer to the torch the fitting seems to be lose.

[bluntpanda]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B26fdzRdl817bHVjNkVXRng2VVUhttps://drive.google.com/open?id=0B26fdzRdl817Wkx1VzdrLWQyT28

[bluntpanda]

Howdy! Finally got this forum app figured out and got a different adjustable regulator that seems to do the trick as far as low enough PSI. I think I understand your description of the tune... To verify I see two sets of upper hex I'm guessing the biggest ones that are set into bolts and not the ones below it that are screwed into the torch body? Thanks for the follow up!


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[bluntpanda]

83585


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[Kovacs Glass]

Yeah, he is talking about the 3 top hex's on top of the torch, not the ones under the cover. The top ones are for oxygen FLOW.

The ones under the back cover are the timing keys. I wouldnt fiddle with them unless your stages are really out of whack.
Also bear in mind, you have 3 hex's under the torch, by the post that connects to the base. These are for gas FLOW.

[Emmett's Glass]

While you got the back cover off put some lubricant on the pins, it might be a stuck pin causing some of the out of tune. Don't mess with the screws under the cover other than that until you get the gas issues worked out.
Good luck!
E

[Swim]

I would not touch that timing at all because it looks like its been tuned by jason howard, mine looks the same way with that thread locking stuff on the timeing after it came from jason.

[Joe Userton]

I would not touch that timing at all because it looks like its been tuned by jason howard, mine looks the same way with that thread locking stuff on the timeing after it came from jason.

Doesn't he use green to mark his?

[Joe Userton]

Yeah, he is talking about the 3 top hex's on top of the torch, not the ones under the cover. The top ones are for oxygen FLOW.

The ones under the back cover are the timing keys. I wouldnt fiddle with them unless your stages are really out of whack.
Also bear in mind, you have 3 hex's under the torch, by the post that connects to the base. These are for gas FLOW.

Do you happen to know what the 3 smaller hexes that are just below each oxygen adjustment hex are for?

[bluntpanda]

Doesn't he use green to mark his?

Not sure if that totally applies because I'm told that someone had seen the previous owner attempting adjustments and a friend adjusted a couple that were not making contact in certain stages.

Here's where it's at

https://vimeo.com/161533536

[bluntpanda]

I can't tell if first and second are too intermingled because in second it has a tight center and in first there's a super wide flame even with the oxygen all the way open


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[Swim]

the timing is the most difficult part, and you should never let anyone touch the timing.... for one it cannot be eyeballed. and I am not sure if that is correct about the green, Mine is green so your possibly right. Someone should ask jason. And in general you want all of the stage intermingling at a certain point. fo one, J Howard tune and times his where the oxy comes on all at once. As soon as your main wheel opens the rocker plate presses all three stages for oxy. This has something to do with getting rid of the turbulence between stages.

[Swim]

Are you tuning an ESL or a PSL? because the ESL is way easier to figure out

[BORO]

Jason used red a long time ago. Now its green.

The top hex are o2.


The bottom hex are gas ON A NATURAL GAS MODEL.

The bottom hex on a PROPANE MODEL ARE AIR ONLY. No way to adjust gas stages on a propane. You match all the other settings to the gas pressure.

A propane torch has 9 adjustments under the rear cover. (timing the stages.)The left hex under the rear turn on the center stages. Middle hex under the cover control when the second stage comes on. The right ones under the cover control the large stage.

A natural gas has 6 adjustments under the rear cover. Same set up right to left. Just no timing hex for the air. (no air mixing into the gas stages)



Just to clarify, the gas limiters on a n.g. , and they are air limiters on a propane . I'm talkng about the hex, set into bolts, on the very bottom of the body. They face the base.

[bluntpanda]

I think at this point because I'm unsure of the timing adjustments others had made I should have it professionally tuned. I'm open to suggestions can ship but if anyone can do it locally in Eugene that would be ideal


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[Emmett's Glass]

If you bring it up to Seattle I can help you get it running!
E

[Swim]

I think at this point because I'm unsure of the timing adjustments others had made I should have it professionally tuned. I'm open to suggestions can ship but if anyone can do it locally in Eugene that would be ideal


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there are people in your area that can do it for sure. I can tell you though that what you are describing is normal, so dont count the timing as fucked just yet. The first thing you need to do is close all of the hexes across the top and bottom and start from scratch. Then tune it from stage to stage, open up the gas on the bottom left first and then adjust the oxy to fully combust on that stage, and set it to full rage right up until it is time for the next stage to come on (while you are doing this be sure to open the oxy adjustment full tilt) and then tune the second stage, and then tune the third, and when you have a rough tune across the board, you go back and tune everything with the torch running full bore. I have talked to some people, and this was easy for them to understand, and then other people could not figure it out. I really think its not worth the 600$ that jason is gonna charge, I wish i could look at it for you, or BoRo..... the guy that gave you the explanation above passed this knowledge on to me. As far as the regulator, I just found a way to hose clamp mine together, because the fittings are hard to find. I assume yours is older because you have one of these nat gas ones, so you probably have barbs instead of fittings, and that is a plus in my opinion

[BORO]

N.G. Torches have a "E" stamped on top of the body.

Propane torches have a "P" Stamped on too by the oxygen hex.

[bluntpanda]

Mine has a P :)


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[bluntpanda]

Per the recommendation I got on the herbie addict page I got a marshal excelsior regulator which is adjustable and the pressure goes all very low all the way to entirely off


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[Swim]

it does not matter what reg you have if your torch is not tuned right, but yeah, why not have an adjustable reg, I thought they were pretty awesome at first, but it just winds up being another knob to fiddle with, the herbie design is meant to make you not have to adjust your gas. You might as well get a gtt if you want something that you can fiddle with all the settings and not mess it up, cause if you are still just looking for a part to change and fix your problem or something and not getting your gas mixed right, your never gonna figure that torch out. Also, some people say that the PSL is easy, or easier to tune than a natural gas model, and that a bunch bullshit. I would say a cleaver person can fiddle with a nat gas torch and get it dialed in for propane, but the propane model is much more difficult to figure out.... I had tuned 4 or 5 natural gas torches for propane, and then I bought a PSL that was totally out of wack and I wound up having to spend a shitload of money getting Jason to tune it.

[mbashaw]

there are people in your area that can do it for sure. I can tell you though that what you are describing is normal, so dont count the timing as fucked just yet. The first thing you need to do is close all of the hexes across the top and bottom and start from scratch. Then tune it from stage to stage, open up the gas on the bottom left first and then adjust the oxy to fully combust on that stage, and set it to full rage right up until it is time for the next stage to come on (while you are doing this be sure to open the oxy adjustment full tilt) and then tune the second stage, and then tune the third, and when you have a rough tune across the board, you go back and tune everything with the torch running full bore. I have talked to some people, and this was easy for them to understand, and then other people could not figure it out. I really think its not worth the 600$ that jason is gonna charge, I wish i could look at it for you, or BoRo..... the guy that gave you the explanation above passed this knowledge on to me. As far as the regulator, I just found a way to hose clamp mine together, because the fittings are hard to find. I assume yours is older because you have one of these nat gas ones, so you probably have barbs instead of fittings, and that is a plus in my opinion

Is this process only for natural gas versions or for propane version as well?

[Swim]

that is the process for a natural gas to propane conversion.... its my version of the process anyhow. Tuning a PSL is entirely different because the gas setting is fixed, and I spent about 20 hours ttying to tune a PSL before I gave up, I can say with full confidence that I may not do the best or most balanced or perfect tune (however you want to put it) but I can convert a nat gas torch in less than an hour, its a straight forward easy process.

[Swim]

and I am still not sure that i dont like the natural gas conversion better than the PSL. My PSL is top knotch now that i got Jason Howard to work on it and tune it, but it uses so much gas that I cannot burn on it with my current set up. I am in the process of buying a second homefill in order to be able to use the PSL. But it is still possible that I will sell this PSL next time I find a good ESL 40. The PSL with Jason Howards tune uses a K tank in 4 hours, and i was not doing heavy duty work that you would normally associated with high oxygen use. I was mind blown, because I can get 12 hours or more out of a k tank on a mirage doing the same work. The ESL 40 I had was tits though, I just did not know what I had ast the time, i knew it was good, but i did not realize how good it was