Cadmium powder

[Royer]

I bought some Northstar cherry, lava, canary and I dont think im working them right. I haven't tried the periwinkle yet and i tried the lava with devastatingly bad results. the cherry worked slightly better and canary fared well also but still not as saturated/or clean a color as their rod counterparts. Still need some more experimenting before i conclude that i might need a different approach to getting a perfectly layered jawbreakers
Does anybody use powdered glass for exterior use that can maybe drop some knowledge?

90389 90390

[Misfitman]

ive not tried using cad powders, But i would try an oxy rich flame and work it waaaay in the back of the flame. See what results you get from that.

[snoopdog6502]

I made an air injection manifold for working fussy colors. It works real well and cost me $25 to make.

I run a mirage and a phantom.

90394

[Cerberus]

Tell us more Snoop. What is that big plastic thing, a filter?
I assume this goes on the oxy line, yes? Small fire or big fire on Mirage?
What pressure is the air?

[BORO]

On propane line, big thing is a air dryer

[BORO]

If you heat the cads too fast , they boil. Look up "sublimation" for more info.

pre heat one end in the kiln. Work way out. 5 or 6" from your torch face minimum. Further is better, especially to start. Use so much oxy you just start to see "black" or "dark streaks" in the blue part of your flame.

I would stay away from the powders, they can be dangerous with out a respirator.

I found lava to boil the least, cherry the most. I'm sure it changes batch to batch. I'm willing to guess you worked the lava first.


edit: I can see you used way to much propane. The way the cherry looks brown, your trying to conserve o2 or running a concentrator .... That cherry ball is reduced.


periwinkle is white based. It will work slightly different(tin in the batch) But yes it can boil easy too.

[Mute]

On propane line, big thing is a air dryer

Not a dryer.

Particulate filter.

For dealing with moisture from an air compressor you are going to want something better than just a filter like what's in the pic. Those are used for tools and such to prevent debris and particles.

Oxygen lines don't need filters or dryers the air is already as clean and dry as you can basically get it.

I like the motorguard inline air filters for trapping moisture and the particulate filter positioned afterwards.

Best part is the filters can be replaced with a cheap alternative, that could literally save your ass ;)

[BORO]

One type of dryer at greasy looked identical... Had vents inside the main tube , into a filter that surrounded the inner core. then the air goes out the other end only from the outer filter case.

why do you need a particulate filter for glassblowing?

I'm only guessing from snoops other thread. He will clear it up. A.k.a. You could be right?

[Mute]

One type of dryer at greasy looked identical... Had vents inside the main tube , into a filter that surrounded the inner core. then the air goes out the other end only from the outer filter case.

what do you need a particulate filter for?

I'm only guessing from snoops other thread. He will clear it up. A.k.a. You could be right?

If you had a motor guard dryer you'd understand. I've been using the motorguard moisture filter while I'm painting my car and use the filter like what's pictured(in white) just as a safety precaution, to make sure the paint job stays nice.

I'd have to say the particle filter would probably be unneeded, but they are only a couple bucks, cheap insurance imo

[BORO]

http://www.talkglass.com/forum/showthread.php?65403-26-compressed-air-manifold-for-GTT-or-any-torch&highlight=snoop+air+manifold+cheap

mute, you called it a moisture filter? What's the difference?

[Mute]

http://www.talkglass.com/forum/showthread.php?65403-26-compressed-air-manifold-for-GTT-or-any-torch&highlight=snoop+air+manifold+cheap

mute, you called it a moisture trap?? What's the difference?

Sorry about that. If I could correct it I would...:o:

The difference is quite a bit, if you have moisture in your line or coming from the compressor you don't want that to get to the torch innards I would think it could cause rust and problems with the flame characteristics as well (just a guess on the flame characteristics...)

The particle filter is just that, it blocks any debris that may be.

[BORO]

Motor gaurd is the roll that looks like t.p., correct? (smaller micron )

I should just google this shit.... Thread jack apologies.

[Mute]

Motor gaurd is the roll that looks like t.p., correct? (smaller micron )

Yes. That's how it will save your butt...if it needs wiped. My grandfather operated his own body shop for 25 years and swears by them for painting cars and says that cheap single ply works just as good as the filters they sell you. So once you get it and see the roll of tp, you'll know its legit to swap it out with good ol' toilet paper;)

[doosight]

The best way to work cads is to case them. sleeve rods in clear and pull down to stringers, vac stack them, puff and stuff, even drawing lines by hand and sleeving is better than working them on the surface. Do whatever surface work you have to with them, work them slow and gently with a decently cool flame (most people have better luck with cool oxidizing flames rather than reducing), and then as soon as you possibly can for whatever you are trying to do with them, case them.

That compressed air setup looks completely badass! I really want to get one of the Nortel Hydra torches when they are released and i think adding one of these would make it the best most versatile torch on the market!

[istandalone24/7]

you only need to encase cads if you don't know how to use them properly ;)
there is a sweet spot for any cad on any torch.

[MUPH]

I bought some Northstar cherry, lava, canary and I dont think im working them right. I haven't tried the periwinkle yet and i tried the lava with devastatingly bad results. the cherry worked slightly better and canary fared well also but still not as saturated/or clean a color as their rod counterparts. Still need some more experimenting before i conclude that i might need a different approach to getting a perfectly layered jawbreakers
Does anybody use powdered glass for exterior use that can maybe drop some knowledge?

Make sure you are cleaning your cads before each use. I've had the best results (unencased) when my rods are perfectly clean along with my hands. Sweat and oil marks on the color rods from your hands can cause problems too. FWIW I use a soft slightly reducing flame to work my cad rods, I just adjust location in the flame to find the best heat base

[Royer]

ive not tried using cad powders, But i would try an oxy rich flame and work it waaaay in the back of the flame. See what results you get from that.

This seems to be working great thus far, just worked some of the lava powder and it looks much more saturated and less skuzz but the skuzz might be because i gathered too much powder at once. will post results later

[snoopdog6502]

The air filter is a dryer and particulate filter, disposable for painting but worked out for test firing real well. My compressor is big and Im in a desert so water is less of a problem here.
I have trick to keep the water out anyway and that.s leave the drain cracked a butt hair.

The quicky air injection on the propane works like a champ, for less then $25 its way worth doing.
15-20psi is all it needs. All the candles go blue, it quite a nifty rig for colors. one I melt them nice and round I do sleeve them though then I can rage those bitches.

[gypsea]

You could get your powder layer on and then roll it in clear powder or fine frit to protect it .

[BORO]

If you play this song when you melt your cads, they boil less.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KvzemQPAIIo&list=PLFMWECr3v8AuiJKbiWOsB6Nz8GeLTJLbe&index=26

[hashmasta-kut]

tried to rep ya Boro.

Muph has good info, even if he is a dick.

[BORO]

I don't think murph is a dick, the truth is the truth. He rocks almost no opinion, just good info.

Some times it may be a different way to skin the cat, but what works works.

I gave him rep for that post.

I use a high oxy flame. I have had long conversations with color producers, they seem to think keeping the glass in a highly oxidized state will keep it happier longer... Un-burnt fuel in the flame can pull o2 from the glass itself, changing a lot of factors. If you work far enough out on a reducing flame , the combustion is much more complete. (most colors,most of the time)

Then you have color that likes a reducing flame like slyme for example.

Murph and I use totally different torches as well, I will be the first to admit any flame can work if you use it right.

lots to factor in, I still took the finger grease comment as a thing I never considered. (+1)

[hashmasta-kut]

He isn't a dick to you, and I didn't say he posted like a dick here.

He hates me pretty sure.

He has been quite rude to me on this forum, no biggie, just saying :D

[jr23]

But this op is working powder not Rod

Muph is all about stroking and cleaning some rod !

The best tip have for working powder is go slow .

Lay your pile bigger than needed .

Heat your rod or tube and then roll into powder to get a light layer .

Melt in slow at back of flame then repeat .



I guess if you had some kind of tray you could pre heat your powder in kiln .

I would be afraid I would nock it over and have cad powder all over

[D. dino i ninjah]

is hmk .. talking about someone else being purposfully rude to him ? aww ..

[D. dino i ninjah]

I just wouldn't try to work cad powders . . unless your like making enamal out of them . .
fwiw .. if it was easy to do .. you would see a lot more people doing it .. I work cads .. with my outer oxy creating blue lines in the flame and me center . propane almost off . .( i turn it to off.. then crack it ) .. its only been in the last couple years that I can surface work cads .. also adujusting your regs . .at like 50 to 5 on a cc .. will keep your flame oxidized and thus force it to run cooler ..