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AdamCotter
11-03-2017, 07:57 PM
Just post any little thing that you do differently than the standard set up.

Here are a few things that come to mind.

Make a V shaper with Cherry Wood
In the hardwood flooring section of massive hardware store's there are free samples.

Get a stack of all Cherry hardwood

Put a 4x5" half inch block of wood in a vice, cut the V, use a rasp, file and such to taper and Sharpen it. They last for a few weeks so make up a few at a time
Keep in a bucket of water. When they are old and slimy they are the best.

Drilling holes all the way thru 1/2" blocks of cherry wood makes excellent marble molds., then use wedges,or water PROOF glue to mount on handles (ask for old/broken cherry drumsticks at music store)


Using a bunsen burner on your bench.
that saves a LOT of oxygen vs. Annealing by cranking up the propane on your center flame. It's also really useful if you don't have a hand torch to keep your piece warm while working a seal.

Sharpen your brass V shaper.

I saw a relatively new tool by...? ? FireKist? That looks like a squat support roller at first glance, but has sharp 2" disks like rod nippers.
So I sharpened one of my brass V shapers, it makes snapping off a bit cleaner , and smoother. I usually use a graphite one to do constrictions. Hmm..I used to have a box of graphite scrap disks, would have been interesting to try those.
I might pop a piece of 1/4" graphite plate in the drill press with a 1.25" center drill hole saw

Paddle Modification
Sharpen the sides of your paddle (thank you Loren Stump).

Drill or notch an 1/8" and 15mm hoLe in the corner of one of your long handle 4" paddles.

****3rd hand.******
For adjusting your flame without a footpedal

This is a good one, (pretty much just a more convenient support roller ).

It works much better imo than resting your work on the torch to adjust flame.

1. Take a 18" handle paddle and drill a 14mm or 11mm hole near the top center , then chisel out the top so it's a round bottom notch. (depending on what handle size you use.) A V shape also works.

2. drill a 1/2" 3" deep hole in your bench12"×12"×2" thick board. Slide the handle into the hole.
If you drilled thru your bench, a few silicone rubber bands, or a hose clamp, or a stop wedge works to adjust the height.

There's a bunch of different tools you can make to plug into the bench hole..

Freestanding Torch

attach bench burner to a drummers tripod cymbal stand, or a Boom microphone stand. Shorten the arm/add counerweight if you like.

This allows for all kinds of adjustmenta to flame angle, you can set the burner to (standing) waist, chest, or any height, and point it straight up, or set it high and angle it down, so many possibilities.

The main reason is to not have your bench in the way, allowing you to work really big/long pieces.
I've had decent results mounting support rollers on standard microphone stands to compliment this arrangement.

It also works very well when doing outdoor demos.

Tweezer Modification's

**Grind and polish the inside tips of tweezer, (keep flat), then if you want to be able to remove material with them file just one single deep notch 1/8" from the tip.

**Polish and lightly wax the outside of tweezers to use push glass around (eg. Repair a tiny hole in a seal). TI use as a flaring tool , like improvised tiny jacks. Or whatever.

**Open up a set of quality 10" tweezers, hammer themail arms rounder over a mandrel like an anvil or a steel oxygen tank cap.

**Heat with torch and beND 1/2" of the tips perpendicular (really helps to pull off blebs and such clean.

**Braise or solder a leaf spring inside a 14 or 18" set, (like a switchblade spring, a street sweeper steel or hacksaw blade works ok).

Boro Bead release Recipe

Grind down a big linoleum knife

Habe to go do something, I'll edit this down add pics later. Please share your stidd

BORO
11-06-2017, 08:33 PM
http://www.talkglass.com/forum/showthread.php?53893-Wilbur-s-list-of-quot-that-s-awesome-and-it-never-occurred-to-me-quot-tricks&highlight=i+did+nit+realize+tips+wilbur

PyroChixRock
11-07-2017, 12:36 PM
I'm sure I have a ton of tips I can add to this awesome thread, but I'm drawing a blank right now except for don't eat the bubble trash. So yeah, don't do that, ok?! :lol

ElFuego
11-07-2017, 07:13 PM
I use small sections of rubber automotive lines to connect my blow hose to the punty.
I have also seen people use spark plug boots of various sizes.

A mamber here suggested using fiberglass welding blanket as a kiln liner, tongs cover or hot pad.
Im using it for a punty door liner on the kiln also. (Take care dealing with fiberglass, nasty itchy stuff if your not careful)

hashmasta-kut
11-07-2017, 10:08 PM
blowhose? Still never tried one. Once in a while i have vague fantasies though :)

My tip for the day is cold bridging. Take sections you want to join with odd joins, Get them all perfect for joining, then cool it all. Add bridges to perfectly align the sections cold, then put your assembly in the kiln, heat and join. Not always needed, but sometimes an essential technique, especially with tight clearance tolerances.

Jimi The Don
11-08-2017, 09:37 AM
Thing I love about "tip sharing",
It typically leads to something "deeper"...

harpentuan
11-08-2017, 09:40 AM
Jimi, where are your "y"s?

Jimi The Don
11-08-2017, 09:54 AM
If your kiln roof is more crackedout than Bernie Worrell in the 80s, then get some ceramic fiber board to replace it rather than fucking with repairing the bricks/replacing the bricks.

lumpyhead
11-09-2017, 07:53 PM
Quick Tip: if you want to quickly find the middle of a tube or rod, place said tube on your hands like this91538

And slowly move hands closer together until they meet and they should meet in the middle. Thank you science teacher!