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View Full Version : Cracking pieces, moisture.



Deez
01-06-2007, 12:48 PM
I keep putting together sidecars and bubblers, and blowtubes get in weird positions, and the condensation from the blow tube goes down and cracks the joint i just got done welding everytime. What can i do to prevent this, im thinking a blowhose assembly would help, cause the work would be level most of the time?

Any suggestions, thanks.
kindglass

Firekist
01-06-2007, 04:12 PM
i use a blowhose all the time, and condensation is still often a problem. i don't know if it'd be more or less often.. but.. the problem is there.

if you are using points, you can flash the handle with a flame to vaporize some of the condensation. sometimes this will overheat your handle... be careful =-)

if you are pushing your flame into the hollow of the piece (like into a carb, or into an open hole), you will get even more condensation in the blowtube. using a plug during these steps (like an earplug or silly putty) can help reduce the condensation levels.

i suppose you could push a small piece of cotton into the blowtube at some point.. it would absorb water, yet allow air to pass through.. don't get it too hot =).. that could get ugly.

i'd like to hear any other suggestions.. i sure can't think of anything else.

z--seth (ok.. maybe moving into a hotter dryer climate.. ...)

mistahead
01-06-2007, 04:28 PM
yea firekist a peice of toilet paper or qtip end in the end absorbs a bunch!! and still lets the air pass.

Deez
01-06-2007, 06:39 PM
wow the cotton, sounds like a good idea, ima def try that out.
thanks
any other suggestions are welcomed. thanks firekist

Chris Carlson
01-06-2007, 08:39 PM
i just try to hold the piece higher than the handle when its happening...

and keep an eye on the handle to make sure its not leaking into the piece.

Zed
01-06-2007, 09:24 PM
Scientific blowers use a canister of some sort of chemical that absorbs moisture. Basically you blow via a blowtube into this canister, and then the tube continues out with the air chemically dried.

Are you sure that the moisture is the problem though? If your working hot enough the moisture should just boil off the hot area.

I sometimes flash heat my points when theres too much moisture inside of them while holding onto them with a shop rag or something to boil off any moisture. I hates the steam burns.

Deez
01-07-2007, 09:35 AM
It generally hits a part of the pipe that im not currently working on, so its up to kiln temp. I prolly just didnt seal my joints nice enough, im still getting them down ya know.

Firekist
01-07-2007, 12:03 PM
since it sounds like you're going to try it.. make sure you don't get wherever the cotton is so hot that the cotton bursts into flame inside the tube! (like.. not in your kiln..)

i'd hate to see that thing burst into flame as you're putting it up to your mouth!

no, i haven't resorted to this.. i've just been trying to be careful. yes, i've had cracking problems from this before.. it sucks.

i never thought about using an actual desiccant to dry the air in the system.. i don't think it'd be able to keep up with condensation.. the canister in the line would help with what comes out of your breath, but if you blast flame through your tube, you're getting water vapor from your flame that way.

anyway, post back how/if the cotton works.. and if you have any more tips after using it.

z--seth (don't be stingy.. you can click to add to my rep..)

Harry Paratesteez
01-07-2007, 12:26 PM
um.......don't tip it in a way that the moister leaks into yer werk.........seems simple enough to me.

Piece,
MAtt

mistahead
01-07-2007, 02:42 PM
sounds to me like your forgetting to water anneal your work??

phazzoo
01-08-2007, 01:41 PM
Scientific blowers use a canister of some sort of chemical that absorbs moisture. Basically you blow via a blowtube into this canister, and then the tube continues out with the air chemically dried.

Are you sure that the moisture is the problem though? If your working hot enough the moisture should just boil off the hot area.

I sometimes flash heat my points when theres too much moisture inside of them while holding onto them with a shop rag or something to boil off any moisture. I hates the steam burns.

The chemical that is commonly used for this application is calcium chloride.
" Because it is strongly hygroscopic, air or other gases may be channeled through a column of calcium chloride to remove moisture. In particular, calcium chloride is usually used to pack drying tubes to exclude atmospheric moisture from a reaction set-up while allowing gases to escape. It can also be added to liquids to remove suspended or dissolved water. In this capacity, it is known as a drying agent or desiccant. It is converted to a brine as it absorbs the water or water vapor from the substance to be dried: CaCl2 + 2 H2O → CaCl2·2H2O " -Wikipedia

john madden
01-08-2007, 05:39 PM
if you got it use a hand torch to heat the moisture out of the tube while its in the kiln, then wait cuz its hot. i dont know thats what i do.

hookedonsilicate
01-08-2007, 06:01 PM
I dont use points much, tubbing mostly and when I am welding joints together like firekist said I stick my thumb over the end or a ear plug in the end so the oxy doesnt put moisture or doesnt put as much moisture in the tube. when I use a blowhose there tends to be more moisture form all the droool. Anyway I dont see any moisture in my handles until I have seperated and it cools completely