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  • Foot Pedal Tutorial

    Now that my CC has been converted to a 4 stud I need a foot pedal to speed things along and cut oxygen consumption. So lets get to it ................

    This is what you need to plumb up these valves.

    1. Valves = STC
    I opted for the brass valve bodies part # 2W040-3/8 with a 110 volt coil, $34.16 ea. (2 req.)
    2. Brass Bushings = Western Enterprisies from A,B,C,& D Fittings (nuts, nipples, adapters, couplers) REGULATOR OUTLET
    BUSHINGS (ADAPTORS) #142 & #143.
    #142 = 3/8" NPT to B-Size RH (AGS = $2.57) (3 req.)
    #143 = 3/8" NPT to B-Size LH (AGS = $2.51) (3 req.)
    3. 2" Brass nipple = (Ace Hardware -> $2.49) (2 req.)
    4. Brass tess = (Ace Hardware ->$3.29) (2 req.)
    5. Teflon tape = Green for oxygen, Yellow for fuel gas.

    Now that we are plumed up it is time to wire. I took a metal switch box and drilled two holes on both sides to mount these valves, they come with holes that take a #10-32 X 3/8" screw (use cap screws so you can tighten with an Allen wrench). Knock out the plugs on both ends and install two 3/8" clamp fittings.
    I purchased a 15' 16-3 extension cord ($6.97 from Home Depot). I cut the plug end off then cut a 5' piece with the molded plug for my power cord. Cut two 12" pieces off the remaining piece for the valves and what you have left over is for the pedal assembly.

    Take the 12" pieces and strip off 3/4" of insulation and then strip off 1/8" of insulation from each wire. Once you have taken the single srew out of the terminal cover you will find a terminal block. This block contains miniature screws which you will need jewelers screw drivers to open and close. Simply unscrew, insert stripped wire and tighten back down. Valves did not have a wiring schematic so let me help out a little here. The terminal block has three connections in a U shape. the two opposing terminals are to energize the coil (black & white wires), the terminal in the middle is a ground (green wire). These blocks contain a LED already wired in which will light when power is applied to the coils. Feed the free end of the wire through the cover, insert screw and tighten. Next the black rubber seal, metal washer and compression nut.

    I did not buy a foot pedal instead I opted fo construct one out of a metal work box and push button switch. I used a push on / push off but you can get momentary buttons in this same style. I used a blank cover for the box and drilled a 7/16" hole to mount the switch. I looked for a heavy duty switch such as those used for guitar foot pedal effects switch but was unable to locate on locally. Still have not tried the music stores but that will be next on the list.

    Feed the two wires from the valves in the back side and the power cord and foot pedal cord into the front side. The two wires from the valves and the power cord need to have about 2" of wiring exposed and 1/4" of insulation stripped off all exposed wire ends. The white wire from the two valves and power cord all connect and wire nut together. Take the green grounds from all four wires and a 4" piece of green wire and connect with a wire nut. Attach the 4" piece of green ground wire to the box using a green ground screw (as required by our local codes). I opted to hook up a lighted power switch so I mounted a push button switch in a blank switch box cover by drilling the appropriate size hole. One side of that switch gets the black wire from the power cord attached ( I soldered mine but you can use crimp connectors), the other side of the switch gets the black wire from the pedal attached. The white wire that comes back from the pedal connects to both valves black wire. Screw the cover on and you should have something that looks like this.......

    Plug it up and if all goes well the power switch will light when pressed and the red LED's on the valves will light when the pedal is pressed.
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