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so i was wondering if any one has ever taken a sheet of dichro,a sheet of plateglass, and jacked there kiln up realy high and slumped them together, then pulled it out of the kiln, and taco'd it all up into one big tube?
would that work?
ive never tried slumping at all yet,so im not quite sure of the dynamics of it.
oh.. and im talking boro here too.
i've only played with fusiing 1/16 di takes to kilns one realy hot and one at 1050 or so
I've done fused soft dichro glass in my kiln a bunch, but have never tried it with boro. When doing the technique with soft boro, make sure that the plate glass overlaps the edges of the dichro piece by the thickness of the dichro (e.g., if it's 1/16" dichro, you want the plate to be 1/8" bigger in both dimensions so that it slumps down over the edge of the dichro).
Next time I do an order from someplace that has boro plate, I'll get a sheet and try it out.
edit: I've never used two kilns -- you just flash the kiln open after the fusing has occured to drop the temp down quickly (but above annealing temp), then close it and kick on the annealing cycle.
I tried it once a long time ago. It didn't really work boro gets a little weird when you slump it.
Ive tried it. It works good for putting two colors of dichro together and getting double layer dichro. Dont put the two sides of dichro together though or it wont work very good. And you still have to pull it out while its pretty hot and work it in the flame to get it to sick completely, but it makes it easy to get started.
yea i fugured i would pull it out hot and work it, guess ill give it a try when i reach baller status!!
It seems that slumping boro is easy but cooling it off enough to not devitrify is another question.
i've been slumping my scrap lately and i have found that if you really slump it all the way it gets all devit but if you don't go all the way with it sometimes it works out. my process is all fucked up* but i just peek alot and start to cool it down slow when i see something i like. about one out of three survives. you can make a simple mold by stacking tiles.
* my fav. 12 monkeys line
i fail to see how devit would be an issue if you were to flamework it, and just use the slumping as prep to say, rolling a big gangster dichro tube or something
i was thinking of this the other day,also was thinking about using frit and powders to make a picture or design on the sheet to roll up in the flame
fusing 1/16 boro worked for me and was pretty pimp, but i used a tip from chitown 2 kilns
1st kiln i run at like 1400, or hot enough to sag a clear string. if you let it sit too long it will devit. 5-10 min , still havnt nailed the timeing
then i pull it out and let it cool for just a few secs or i will fall apart
2nd kiln now is at reg temp
thats it , then i just make sure to pull all of my can that day!!!!
ive made my best cane that way it turns out realy smooth
not something i do often though, its alot of work and most people wouldnt know the diff anyway
i have always thought about this and everytime i am struggling with dichro i get mad that dichro companies dont do this for us
True divitravication isn't just fog it is a molecular change in the glass flame polishing won't work..Quote:
Originally Posted by onion
True divitravication isn't just fog it is a molecular change in the glass flame polishing won't work..and please lets not turn this into the salt fixes divit conversation again.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by onion
salt might not fix the devit but it sure makes the glass taste better.
MMMMMMMmmmmmm!!! salty dichro tacos!!
anyone got any hotsauce?
i understand that, and im not gonna get into the salt thing, but do you think you could explain why kiln slumping it causes devit? thats the point im confused on.Quote:
Originally Posted by HumanLathe
is it because you're inducing movement into the glass at a sub liquid state?
if so, normally i would associate that sort of fog with, say, bending something when its cold, and having to polish afterwards.
or is it a different set of conditions causing the devit?
in 2003 glass alchemy, the eugene glass school and skutt teamed up to work on the "boro fusing project". all of the info from this work can be found in the dec/jan 2003/2004 issue of glassline magazine (Volume17#4). according to this article fusing boro is possible at a temp between 2000 and 2100 degrees for 20 minutes. apparently a fast ramp up and down is most successful and was aided by the use of specially made fast ramping skutt kilns. by ramping from 2000 to 1300 as fast as possible they were able to avoid phase seperation that was otherwise problematic. the most successful surface to fuse on was found to be a kaiser board or a mix of kiln wash and plaster of paris. the article also talks about the results of different color rod and frit tests but there is too much info to copy here.
peace, m
good info mer!
thanks;)
let us know how it works out for you.
peace, m