fuming question?

O.K, ive hesitated to ask this question but here it goes. ive been fumind since the first day i got on the torch and outside fuming is not a problem i got that down pretty sweet now but ive been doing more inside out prodo lately and am getting frusturated with the fume the only way i can get it to stay in there is if i make it a pukey brown white color and once in a while ill get the blues but rarely.. so thats my question does anyone have any tips on how to get a consistant fume inside out i work on a GTT. for outside fume i use a real soft flame just green oxy. but inside out i cant oxidize it in as well cause of the turbulance that sticking the flame inside causes. any suggestions here are most welcome!! Thanks, Randy

make sure you get the clear nice and hot on the inside so that the fume adheres well and try holding the piece further out in the flame. the fume wil travel quite a distance. I cant tell you exactly for a GTT but fire is fire LOL

i really have no idea but maybe..... try a wider flare on your i/o pieces so that the flame doesn't need to travel "inside" anything to heat up the fume...

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Originally Posted by rumplephorskin

make sure you get the clear nice and hot on the inside so that the fume adheres well and try holding the piece further out in the flame. the fume wil travel quite a distance. I cant tell you exactly for a GTT but fire is fire LOL

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O.K i guess ill try holding it a bit further out! but on another note i guess im trying to say is that i can get fume in there not a prob but if i want it to stay i have to use a nasty kind of fume which is all white and brown not the blu im going for like on my outside fume. and as for fire is fire i dis agree cause like i said i get different fume according to how i set my flame if i just set my flame real soft with only green oxy i get the vibrant bluse i want but if i crack the blue oxy aswell and up the propane a tad till my candle is about an inch long i get a scummy white and brown fume but i does stay inside when i cook my inside out work in. maybe i just need to use smaller cane so i dont have to apply as much heat to fully melt it in? but i have seen nice blue fume in inside out work before maybe they were useing a premix? i noticed they fume pretty effortlessly and nice!! anyhow thanks guys!! :D

my fumes look like a nicotine patch....

remeber inside out , you gotta play with the density...becouse it will be closed off alot less fume will burn off due to torch atmosphire while shaping..

when its condenced it can change alot ... i got an ethiral white alot i sold a couple of peices like this and they all turned blue minus waht was trapped in clear.... i also found i can get differnt shades if i kinda strike it.. with a flame aneal cycle when i was done... lately i play in it and use a bunch of clear too... if you do a couple layers of fume like this it changes..

I work on 50mm little sections like 4 inchs long ... get it hot after a flair this keeps the cracking down and the fume really likes to stick... gives you more time to lay down fume as well....

im still just learning this but so far i have gotten a few effects ... like the spoon in my gallery started brown now its white when it was used its blue/white

so somber you do your inside outs on 50? 50x? i do most of mine on 32x4 and some on38x4 if your useing med wall though i can see that you would have to use alot less heat to condense. ive been thinkin of trying some standard wall but since i usually order my glass by the case and have it shipped to me i havent really tried to many different wall sizes since i learned on heavy wall. i havnt reall come across to many posts on here about different wall sizes for different applications, i know that bigles preaches standard wall but thats about it!!!lol! it,d be nice to hear what peope are useing for what applications for sure though. i guess i should start a new thread for that though!

i get scraps from a local shop... sorry but i can find my digi calipers so this will be in inchs..

i think its standard wall ... 2in od, and about 3 inchs of useable glass once the back is melted solid. with this size i can flair very tiny and with a little control i dont have to flair a whole lot... or at all depending on what im trying to do ... when i fume dot it i flair it out extra cause i take alot of time on the inisde..

i pick these up just cause its what i learned on and im pritty fast using this system... and i dont ahve to pull points.. i still do for my other stuff but for prodo this is very fast for me..

i have a couple of other sizes a smaller size , and the same tube just longer...

I get some cool greens by fuming the inside till it's white, then crack the blue knob a bit and burn off most of the fume you just layed down. Then close the blue knob and fume again. It should look black the second time. Then just close it up and make your peice...

try after you give your flare a good fume ,using an oxi rich flame to burn in the fumeing .it should turn almost clear ,than use a bushy flame to strike the fume back to a an amber yellow for silver . most people dont strike there fumeing ,you can get many more colors than just blue and green if you do . I use a hand torch with an oxi 2 tip to apply my fumeing. alot more control over the amount you get . and a warning about gtts my brother fumes with his torch and tends to get silver build up on his torch from the back fume .it will oxydize after some time clogging your ports over time . hope that helped a lil email me if not i will walk you through it. peace

yea i do how maka does, fume than oxidize, then reduce, then oxidize and so forth to really burn the fume in on the inside....

anyway randy, ill see you in less than a month and ill give you all my fume tips then, i have a guaranteed formula for nice fume inside out, i think youll be stoked, its easier to show it than explain it :)

Silver is not sensitive to the amount of oxygen, rather it is gas flow and temperature you are adjusting. Colour is controlled by the size of the silver crystal you grow. Bear in mind how much the surface area decreases on the inside, and use less silver accordingly.

whenever i fume on the inside it almost looks like nothing happened until i go back into the tune with a neutral flame and strike the silver, then i get a nice amber color which in turn will change to blue with a backing

less is more

^definitely
http://www.glasspipes.org/Img157728_...7728_1.JPG.asp

Have you ever tried to do all your fuming and decorative work on the outside then melt down blow it out, then open one end and flair it open, then attach a thick punti inside at the closed end and heat it on the outside where punti is attached. Hold the punti straight up and use a paddle on the flaired edge to push down and you will start to pull the the inside of the tube out. Then the inside becomes the outside. This technique allows much more control over your fuming and decoration(inside out wrap and rake which cannot be accomplished with traditional inside out tech.) It takes some practice but once you have it down it is fast and you won't distort your pattern. Once you do have it pulled through, close up the open end and fuse a 12mill. Hvywall tube for your blowpoint and begin to shape your piece. If you have any ? About this technique email me and we can talk further. Hope this helps...

fume a light fume , the inside as mentioned is a smaller suface and then shrank down even more . I fume very light then come back with a bushy flame , this will turn it some nice colors .