beautiful :)
dig the extra space from the hood, no finger burnin' if you like to grip the can (i personally go for the legs)
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beautiful :)
dig the extra space from the hood, no finger burnin' if you like to grip the can (i personally go for the legs)
sickie piece, the opals and colors look great. I love the size of it too, let's see a size reference:)
you ever make one into a dinosaur, with open mouth as the bell? thad be cool.......they always remind me of a dinosaur
i wanna make a dragon someday :)
well this one is not bad, but i kinda liked the last one better.
http://dj-hash.com/xavier/bes1.jpg
http://dj-hash.com/xavier/bes2.jpg
http://dj-hash.com/xavier/bes3.jpg
http://dj-hash.com/xavier/bes4.jpg
its in the mail already, but hopefully cannabinoid will oblige you.Quote:
Originally Posted by GlassWithClass
Nice retti on that one. And cool pastel color scheme!
Those look like some biggie opals on that one kut. $$$
I believe thatcthe technical term for this is RO$$ :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Boiseno Glassworks
there are two cut opals, a square and an oval, and 4 big footy ones, black in front white in black, and a small tumbled chip in each curve. the one curve the little opal looks like gold its a pretty cool piece. i like the tumbled gilsons a lot, i bought 4 more grams of them.
the donut is an interesting new addition, opals are a nice accent
like that color scheme, id hit it
Dope rig Kut. Interesting doughnut placement for sure. Is this to help cut down on splash? I've really never had that problem on my rig. Colors are nice! I dig the f2c work above the bell!
it was a request. it runs smoothly, but i dont know if that has a lot to do with it. i think it might help it hit smoothly.
u aint playin wit dem opals.
i actually have a problem with one, now that you mention it. it has a check coming off the side of it, one of the back feet. its an internal check that doesnt meet the edge of the foot, just touches the opal.. i tried retorching it with a hot flame to reweld it back nice and reannealed it in the kiln, but the check came back and i see another formation near it i think. i am guessing its doomed and needs to be replaced. any thoughts?
I assume you know to clean your opals before encasing them? Also the donut will technically make it hit smoother. Any surface the smoke contacts causes it to deposit tar and make the hit smoother. Same reason a swiss perc works.
i did ya. so its a write off probably, since little checks have formed in the foot with the opal?
i dont get what you mean about the donut making it smoother tho really.
Every time the smoke hits a surface it will inherently make the hit smoother because it deposits tar. Swiss percs for example are designed so that the smoke pinballs around in the disc hitting as many surfaces as possible. Therefore, adding a donut will cause the smoke to hit the center of that donut, bounce off of that and hit the walls of the chamber, and then continue on its path. This deposits more tar than normal and ends up being a smoother hit than normal.
Also, I was told to clean my opal in acetone. I dunno if this is what you're doing, but it made my opal encasements stop exploding on me.
i understand your theory, but i mean it seemed it hit smoother doing trial hits. the flow was nice. also if a curve is made skinny enough, there is barely any deposit of residue inside a unit, most of the deposit will be in the curve, up to 90% or more.
most of my opals dont explode anymore, i took mine out of an isopropyl bath before using then heated and dried on the top of the kiln on a clean hot spot. its just this one has a couple of planes of crack formations coming off of it. hasnt spread at all in 2 days tho. i encased 8 opals for this vape, and only one of the large rough cut ones is being a problem.
The Problem with Tlkq's theory is this is vapor, NOT SMOKE there aren't tars. The donut will cause splash and would add resin to the sides though. I had this theory awhile ago that the percolation would splash more on the sides, so it seems this is the same idea. I agree that the curves get MUCH dirtier than the unit.
well, also like i said, if the curve is skinny enough there is very little buildup in the chambers of the unit.
Yup I said my curve gets really dirty.Quote:
Originally Posted by hashmasta-kut
No, Konrad. It is most certainly not vapor, it does contain tar, and otherwise behave like smoke, because that's what it is. "Vapor" is a gaseous form of substance that exists at the same temperature that said substance might also be a liquid or a solid, (below the critical temperature), and is not typically the result of boiling (think cloud formation or condensation).
"Vaporizing" is a misnomer. The build up you're seeing is, in fact, resin and tar. Considerably less than one sees from burning plant material, indeed, but resin and tar none the less. You are simply burning a cleaner product at a lower temperature. So, yes, the donut does in fact make a difference (albeit a slight one).
Also, Kut, your work is looking better and better.
nice rigs :) go sharks!!
You don't get tars with vaping, and it is flash vaporization, there is nothing being combusted or burned, you do not have any plant matter in it. I'm not going to argue about it over a glass forum though. Tar is black, and if there was combustion occuring and tars forming it would 1. Smell horrible, and 2 it would be BLACK, reclaim in pieces is golden, the same as vapor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Din
thanks din, but i must say, its mostly vapor, and what collects in a unit can be reused. i often re use the stuff i collect out of my curve, but never would i save tar out of a smoking device. if you havent used one of these for a period of time, you arent really qualified to say what the buildup in it is really. really, it is not at all the same as smoke residue, not at all. it actually has a good smell often. the people who use them regularily can testify that it is very different than smoke residue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Din
vapor is somthing between burning and solid form. the big problem is that anything brought over a certain point of heating will burn thus creating tars. there is no way to safely gage your heat with a ti pad so you could be burning at first then vaping. if you were to use a heat gun or a somthing with regulated heat then that wouldnt happen. but the simple fact is burning anything will create some form of tars. not near as much as with all the plant matter but still not tarless. rettis are looking crisp though man and im digging the bling of the opals.
but even using a ti pad too hot, its nothing like the effect of combustion, and the cloud of vapor dissipates in the air very fast, quite unlike a cloud of smoke. its mainly vapor, regardless of pad temp. i wont argue with anyone about this anymore though. believe what you will, do your own research :)
extra small purple sable comber, nice color!
http://dj-hash.com/xavier/psa1.jpg
http://dj-hash.com/xavier/psa2.jpg
looks nice beside a lokis lipstick unit:
http://dj-hash.com/xavier/llps.jpg
Damn kut you're killing it.
@Albino vapor occurs at a certain temp, as does combustion, based on what you are heating up. Combustion occurs when something combusts, or turns to fire, thus creating carcinogens and tars. When you have a liquid like water, or oils, you are flash vaping, but yes you can heat it too hot and have a nastier taste, however you aren't getting any "tars" because there shouldn't be any plant matter. If there was it will combust slightly.
HMK sir I was curious what you thought about the wrap jobs like http://aqualabtechnologies.com/zach-...0-14-mm-2.html
or the POWER TI wraps?
Your wraps are by far the nicest I have seen, and used, a lot of people bash it saying that you heat the spoke, but I've never done so, and if I did, I would move it down. It's interesting to see the curve in the link, however I think it will wobble, and I've also seen the power ti's wobble, but i think they can be fixed. Your thoughts are appreciated :D.
I'm not trying to poke holes in your product, or otherwise. However, you are both quite wrong. What you're dealing with is lower temperature combustion, but it is still combustion. As I wrote before, vapor is typically the result of a change or difference in pressure equilibrium. Vapor is definined as being the same temperature as a gas that it might be as a solid. Now, since the pad is heated, and after the smoke cools down, it re condenses in your curve as a resin (or whatever you think it is) it is most certainly not vapor. Understand?
Actually, a high school education and a little deductive reasoning suit me quite fine. Time in this field notwithstanding, I understand simple physics quite well. Might want to review your GED textbooks, homeboy, this is some high quality stupid quoted.Quote:
if you havent used one of these for a period of time, you arent really qualified to say what the buildup in it is really.
i'm done din, i already said.Quote:
Originally Posted by hashmasta-kut
Some nice looking work. It would be easier to see if the ongoing argument about all the other crap was in a different thread, but these things happen.
Seeing as temps and states OF MATTER are CHEMISTRY, you should probably consult your Troll 101 manual for more info. If you don't know what you're talking about, you should stop. There is no matter to combust, nor will it combust with direct flame, it wiil just flash vape. Even if you took an entiredish of oil, applied a direct flame from a torch to it, it would boil off and vaporize. What is left is a clean dish.Quote:
Originally Posted by Din
Kut I was noticing that my curve is building up a lot, do you have a method of reclaiming it? I usually use ISO 91%, but people have told me to heat claim it. I've tried and sometimes the oil would vape and I would be wasting it, so Iso seems to be my preferred method, your thoughts?
Also I've noticed a lot of curves these days have a little indent so the dabber wont touch the glass, I was curious what you thought about it? Would it add more airflow and mess up the constrictions?
This is gonna sound funny coming from me, but can we steer the topic back to the glass itself? This is starting to veer over into territory that might be better suited for a different site.
Hey konrad, go in your kitchen and heat up a skillet more than you normally would.
Then take some high quality olive oil that has a high flash point in pour it into a redhot pan, do you notice the nasty smoke?
You can achieve the exact same results with these "ünits". For some reason you think oil is not an organic matter that will produce tar if burned, and it can in fact burn, but it does.
Ohhhhh yah here it goes, peoples fightin' on the interwebz. LOL Kut you got a special way of bringing drama to your threads. Not saying its your fault, but it sure makes for some good spectating. I am pulling up a chair and grabbing some popcorn.
Oh yah and nice glass but and I say this with all respect, 50+ pages of curves is getting gay, and not gay in happy, gay as in the buttsecks way
Also I am not homophobic I just just wanted to reference the backdoor invasion in Kuts thread :)
I am sure this thread is breaking the T.O.S. seven ways from Sunday.
yes konrad, we are here to discuss glass only really. well, i am anyway :)
hmk: some of the color on the loki's came out sick . are there any colors you haven't made a unit out of?
konrad: try being correct before you speak with authority.
and not trollin before u start callin people trolls. ..its really kind of embarrassing.
dang, very nice honeycomb unit:tongue2:
This thread hurts my eyes though....I wanna see more sick glass and less pointless bickering.....Just one man's opinion:D