Exactly sucking is must, that's how you tell when it's working again, soon as it starts pumpn you won't have to suck any more cuz it will blow in your mouth, lol
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Exactly sucking is must, that's how you tell when it's working again, soon as it starts pumpn you won't have to suck any more cuz it will blow in your mouth, lol
LOL!! My problem is the pressure doesn't build..not that there isn't flow....
Mine has the same problem Cade. I can now get liquid, so I haven't bothered to spend the $100 to ship it out for a fix...
Can anyone give me some tips on how to get the main crank shaft out? I got all the pushrods out of the way and I don't see anything holding it in besides a seal/barring Iv tried whacking on it with no success
Never mind just needed to whack it harder
you're supposed to use a puller. its made for pulling bearings and stuff like that. I believe you might need a press to get the new ones back in without messing them up.
I managed to get the shaft itself out through the bottom, but you are right, pretty sure ill need a puller for the bearings.
I had a lot of brown dust in my housing, I remember I read on here somewhere what that could indicate, but I can't find it. Anyone know what I'm talking about?
brown dust? in what housing? in your piston sleeves or where?
I had lots of black dust/powder in the sleeves and brass heads. Once i put it back together and it wasn't building pressure i figured it was the piston rings or a bad checkvalve. I think the dust and powder was creating and semi-airtight seal that was allowing pressure to build but began to leak at 600psi, as that was the point the fill slowed. idk just guesses
The central hub where all the pistons meet with the crank shaft and bearings. All of it was resting at the bottom on top of the largest bearing.
600psi is about where mine slows down too, mine hasn't stopped working its just slow and making some god awful noises.
I think my needle bearing is just dry, I don't think I've caused any real damage yet after looking things over. But I'd still like to know where all the dust and grime came from. Seems like something must have been grinding to cause that.
please post how it all goes once you put it back together.
..
Just got off the phone from a bearing company here in the UK. They let me in on something interesting related to the crankshaft bearing.
The SCE1012-2RS is a double sealed bearing, this style has 1/2 as many rollers in it than an unsealed bearing of the same dimesnions (SCE1012). The unsealed bearing will be able to take twice the load than that of the stock bearing, so hopefully should last a little longer. Pretty good of them to recceomend the correct/cheaper part for the job, rather than just selling me the more expsneive (sealed) version.
well the "sealed" version would be better for oxygen... the unsealed bearing is going to have oil and grease all over it...
that would be my guess as to why the manufacturer does it like that.
did you tell them that it was going to be in a potentially oxygen enriched environment? If so, that's liability on their end. I find that alot of people don't know what they are talking about when it comes to oxygen and compatible materials...But i guess thats why they work at Ace hardware...:o:
make sure and be safe
^ the bearings never comes in contact with pure oxygen though. The case itself is not air tight and is ventilated by the fan.
that doesn't mean you should just wipe grease and oil on the parts...just sayin broQuote:
Originally Posted by kq9ak
the amount of grease on a nonsealed bearing compared to a double sealed bearing is going to be a consideralbe amount. why take the chance?
how much money are we talking about 10 20$... i mean whats the point?
Barry, I put thought to it before ordering, but I came to the same conclusion as kq9ak. I guess it's always possible to use a degreaser on the bearing and re-lubricate it with oxy safe lube. Best of both worlds?
I'll give it a go once they arrive as I sometimes get that "knock-knock" "knock-knock" while filling.
The main point though was the bearings being able to take twice the load due to double the amount of rollers. Should, in theory, last twice as long before needing to be replaced.
confused what chance? oxygen does not react with oil, it oxidizes combustion. if that was the case maybe we should all start using rubber gloves, i wouldn't want the oil from my hand to come in contact with o2 i may blow up. When was the last time you degreased you o2 regulator fitting before attaching to the tank. I agree they should not be mixed but this would be a situation where they would not be mixed.
oxy safe lube is an oxymoron to bearing lubrication...Quote:
Originally Posted by Kovacs Glass
The only oxygen safe lube I know of is for scuba divers and doesn't pertain to the use of lubricating moving parts in an oxygen rich environment. Its used for lubricating o-rings and threads of their gear. Maybe there is such a thing as oxygen safe bearing lubricant, but i have never heard nor seen of such.
The engineers choose that bearing for a reason. And it wasn't to save 10 dollars, it was to save their ass from a dangerous situation, and liability.
i would listen to an engineer over me or someone else on the interwebs...:o:
you can't predict the future. If the safety feature were to engage and unload your tank oxygen into the compartment of the homefill, the grease or oil present could react, especially if its moving and creating friction on its own.Quote:
Originally Posted by kq9ak
The safety relief valve is on the smallest cylinder. It would be highly unlikely that the tank would vent in such a manner, but if the checkvalves were to fail, it could happen.
better to be safe than sorry.
or lets say an electronic malfunction caused a fire. the oil and grease and oxygen would make the fire more intense, no explosion but a fire hazard for sure
here is a nice little video that makes it easy to understand.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAAbMvHbrJA
Oxygen safe lube doesn't exist.Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry-Allen
"Choosing a Safe Lubricant When Working with Oxygen or Reactive Gases"
...
No calling names guys.
Also, if you admit you're not an expert and don't really know what you're talking about, please stop giving advice on the safe operation and maintenance of oxygen equipment.
Right... my homefill has now stopped filling and is making the constant "knock knock knock" while on.
I have a new bearing, but what is the best/safest meathod for removing AND replacing the bearing on the crank shaft without damaging anything?
Many thanks
Tearing into a dead homefill i haven't looked at in a couple years and I forgot 99% of what I used to know, so i came here to bump this after 9 years or so.
https://youtu.be/-Fq8TwAIRFM?si=9u2i9ff9MhAoLZOI
This is good info to add to this old thread, machinist dude in Oregon that makes the nqalha and made a bunch of coldworking stuff for Marcel.