Interesting first post 707. Honestly I would get a homefill and when it craps out fix it or replace it. You can get a homefill almost as cheap as they are charging you for the replacement.
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Interesting first post 707. Honestly I would get a homefill and when it craps out fix it or replace it. You can get a homefill almost as cheap as they are charging you for the replacement.
Thanks, I will look into the homefill system.
Just cut out a local welding metal doors, ventilation and electricity, it will be worth every penny you pay the freight.
homefill is exact same unit with out the ex2000 sticker over homefill one.. my bearings are toast at around 5500 hrs ,, all the rams n seals n sleeves are perfectly fine,, take it apart n have a look your self not much to it..
ill tell ya what my rebuild costs later this week ,, right now im thinkin 40 - 60$ for 3 bearings.. well see..
^ what Cripz said
you'll find that they're probably cheaper, the roller bearing over here is about 12 bucks and the ball bearings, which are pretty common at that size) a bit less. Stuff always seems to be cheaper in the States than here.
This is what it looks like when it's apart
Disconnected frame and hub assembly
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/3410/imag0221kj.jpg
with the top plate off and pistons removed
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/1796/imag0219v.jpg
gutted assembly, pistons removed ... I mark the piston cylinders and don't take them off, that way I don't have to try and figure out how far to screw them in. If the move a little, I just line the marks up again when reassembling.
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/8650/imag0229h.jpg
Crank assembly
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/8131/imag0227p.jpg
top view of the crank assembly. If you look at the piston hub (the brass part ... may also be aluminium) you can see the edge of the roller bearing between the crank and the hub.
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/413/imag0226m.jpg
if your bearing is gone, this roller bearing is most likely your culprit because there is a lot of strain on it
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/9445/imag0230a.jpg
you'll be able to get a ready replacement from your local bearing supplier and if you're a little bit mechanically minded and know how to take apart a machine in a methodical way, it's not so difficult to do. Best thing is, I don't charge myself for my time doing repairs :) ... not to mention that I have no choice, because these machines are not carried by invacare australia and they won't do repairs ...
and if you want to lubricate, get some oxylube or other lubricant formulated for use in an oxy rich environment. If you have a scuba shop near you, they will probably carry it!
Nice pics.. n description,, that was totally wat I was going to say just didnt come out like that,,, heheh
and adjusting the cylinder sleeves is no prob,, you will see the wear line just adjust to there or almost flush at TDC
you and me, Crip, we should open a repair joint for these things ... I can pull one of these apart now and put it back together blindfolded and using just my teeth, I recon you probably could too.
My 1st one took a shit after about 2 months and still has low hours. Everything looks and sounds OK inside, just no pressure being built. Have either one of you determned if the piston seals are proprietary or not? I would prefer to save some cash and do this myself if seals are available. Invacare keeps info on these things in a tight grip. Trying to keep the government from knowing how badly they're getting screwed I reckon. Thanks guys.
Stephen
haven't had any issues with the piston rings at all, so I can't help you there, maybe Cripz knows more on that one.
Have you had it open and checked that all the fittings are tight?
Yup, Poured soapy water on all connections that were not an electrical hazard. Unless the seals are shot, I'm stumped .Don't have a clue what it could be. Luckily I found another unit really cheap.
Also bought that hard to find fitting for a whip and have a couple extra that I may put in the glassifieds.
Thanks for the reply Aussie.
Stephen
It is probally bad check valve all the brass heads have them inside and check the bolts n orings in the head blocks. Other than that piston rings look like they will. Never wear out. But all units can be diff from conditions u run in to plain old flaws..I got top n bottom bearings at lawn mower repair shop.. going to chk Harley shop for wrist pin bearings looks just like my cr250 bearing
And I just taped a 3/8 pipe thread cap with 5/16 24 and screwed the compression fitting in and hose right in to that.. 7$
Ditched the whip fitting QD
Thanks Crip. I am guessing that just one bad check valve could screw the whole thing?
BTW, hope you find what you need at the Harley shop, Gotta run better with a Harley piece on it... :D
Stephen
awwww ya so they didnt have my needel bearing in stock so i got 2 3/8 ones they had back in action.,,, and i got 5 sets on order so if any one needs one 20$ shipped for all 3
next week some time,, or go to your bearing house n get them for like 12$ for all 3
Genius!Quote:
Originally Posted by CripSkillz
the needle bearing i just removed from mine is....
SCE10122RS
If anyone is interested
Khan
SOOO..WHAT DOES THE CHECK VALVE LOOK LIKE?....oops caps....i have opened only 1 of the pistons and seen the brass block filter..i do not understand what a check valve is...ty for any input.
Check valves are valves that keep the oxy going one way. If you watch crips video you will see the brass blocks that have check balls or valves inside.
I did watch the video..and if I heard right..."you just bang on em n shit"...LMAO. Mine does everything but build pressure....so a check valve sounds like the issue....so I guess I will bang on the brass filter blocks and hope for the best.
Don't forget the very important sucking that needs to happen with the banging.Quote:
Originally Posted by cade