Printable View
So I had this cool Idea for millies some one with a blaster should try it. So you would make a flattened 2in wide 1in thick maria on the end of a 30 ml rod carve pattern in the end nice and deep then fill in the pattern with color trying to stay with in the lines of the pattern, like a fillachello, Then implode and pull. I guess you could do it on a tube too. It think it is totally doable just I don't have a blaster myself.
So are you saying carve the pattern with a blaster? Or blast it after its done?
sandblaster your talking about?
A blaster won't cut that deep of a pattern anyway, and blasting it after its done will leave scum around the milli after you cut it...am I close?
steve
couldnt you just carve it with a knife or somthing like that, while its hot,or just make a stamp to make your pattern
i think ill try it , this might be the motivating i needed today-challenge
be back with results after lunch, but i'm realy wingin it here
with different grades of resist you can cut anything and everything with the right blaster.. many organic things out there where blocks of glass are molded solely through thte use of a sandblaster.. Im curious what ya meant too matt.. not completely sure what you were describing.. Im always down to try.. and if your ever here in texas feel free to blast awayQuote:
Originally Posted by steven p selchow
even better press 2 pucks the same size different colors have them water jet cut and then you have a positive neg take the centers out and switch and melt back together. solid color all the way through, punty up pull out
I know you can cut very deep with a blaster I have done it. I meant blast the clear and then fill in the blasted area's using different colors, using it as a stencil in a sense. I quite sure it will work really good make the cuts about 1/4in. deep, maybe even a little more. Well if anyone wants to try it I bet they could make super detailed images quite easy.
ok i tried it just with a knife
i cut a waffle pattern then just filled in the line with color and impoded it.
now i figured it would just melt into a blob, and i dont know much about millies, or marbles.
but i got a perfectly clear pattern. the color followed the lines that i made
so if you could cut in any way a pattern into the glass, i'd say it will work on something more earthshatering than a waffle pattern
i see what your saying matt it would work, the deeper the cut and straighter the cut without kerfing out to the side real bad or blowing the design out. i have access to a waterjet and a sandblaster if i get some time next week i will try both ways out and post some pics if i get it done
Wouldn't just laying color on do the same thing by the time you melt it in, implode it, and pull it down? What purpose does blasting the design first do?
I guess you could take the sandblasted design and fill it with powder and melt it in and pull it down. You could do faded colors like those sand sculpture jars...
[QUOTE=Cosmo;174649]Wouldn't just laying color on do the same thing by the time you melt it in, implode it, and pull it down? What purpose does blasting the design first do?
[QUOTE]
with the sandblasting you can get a more intricate design i doubt many people have as much hot stringer control as a computer generated resist stencil or even a hand cut stencil
the edges of the design would work almost like a mold if the color was added cold enough not to deform the pattern and hot enough to eliminate bubbles. When you pulled the image down all the lines would tighten up....wish I had a water jet...that must be fun lol.
Clever idea Matt, also; I found carving deep, eliminating the corniche effect is difficult, it's where it kind of 'undercuts' the stencil and eats away underneath.
Something else to consider; mash the maria then apply an even coating of fine frit, apply your stencil then sandblast through that. As you blast through the skin of frit you'll see it come clear, then you know it's all the same depth.
Or continue as you mentioned and fill that blasted cut with a contrasting colour.
Ive benn thinking about this for a few hours.....and i dont really think that this would add much if anything to the implode milli tech.
it would work...yes
But it would look exactly the same if you did it on a clean tube.
yes, It may sink a bit deeper......but i dont think it would add much.
Piece,
H to the testeez
great idea , i wanna see pics when there done
^^^ I agree, but I think you could a)use the pattern to follow so it's kinda like a guide to do more detailed patterns; b) rather than trying to use your memory use the carved pattern.
if you have any doubts just try it.
i'm not a marb or milli person but this sounded interesting to me, so i did a small test, and am really amazed at how the detail held up. a perfect waffle pattern, wich i think i can improve to a crazy weave pattern, and all in a millie, thats cool!!
i have a pressure pot blaster mini. it has a pen style blaster and all kinds of small nozzle's.
i'll give it a try hopefully sometime this week and post pics.
as far as depth, i have cut bout 3/4 of an inch into a boro marble in an attemt to make a felix the cat face.
i was attemting to make a internal 3d carving.
A water jet would be slick... until then a pressure pot sandblaster setup lets you carve deep, faster.
For an example, check out Debra May's work http://www.galleriasilecchia.com/May/style_may.html
O.k
It may be a great stencil.....but its nothing you can't achive with a sharpie. draw on the tube w/ sharpie,trace and implode.
.......prolly come up w/ the same results.
Just sayin,
Matt
consider reverse sandblasted implodes, sandblasted sufacework fliped,grallblasted inside surface work.........it all works....same techs ..new designs.
piece....
The artist formaly know as your mammy.
if it was a detail patteren as soon as the flame hit the disc it would erase all the sharpie patteren.
actually Brian, I've forgotten to erase a marker line on dichro, and the flame didn't remove it, it scummed it up, but it was still visiable.
I use aluminum oxide to blast with, my grit just frosts the surface, silica sand will leave a much rougher surface, but a sandblaster reallly just dosen't cut deep, a waterjet thats another story, I've never seen it used, the knife or another tool will serve the same purpose, faster....good thought though Matt, have to cut a pattern and fill it in with color and see what happens.
steve
i used to use aluminum, but now i prefer silicon carbide. it is a bit more expensive but worth it.
bout 2 years ago a buddy calls me from work "dude, you gotta come here and see this"
i go down to his shop and he was cutting 9" thick stainless slabs. they were making medical grade vibratory tumblers for some company. anyways watching them cut it with water and garnet sand was beyond impressive.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HumanLathe
Quote:
Originally Posted by wildrokproductions
thats kinda what I did in this video :http://www.thegldg.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9898
only with a punch, insted of sandblasting.
Works great for 2 tone milies.I made some milies in the shape of alaska using a fridge magnet too. At first I was getting alot of air bubbles but once you get the heat base consistent in both peices its a snap.
steve you musta been using perniment sharpie marker, those others burn right off.