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I have an Aim 99LS Kiln w/ an analog pyrometer that is about 7 years old. The analog pyrometer is becoming a bit squirlly and isnt holding temp well. I was just looking on ebay and saw some $35 digital pyrometers. The controllers do not have any ramp/soak features. I was wondering if anyone has used one of these controllers. Would this controller be suitable for holding the kiln at annealing temp?
Thanks
Matt
http://cgi.ebay.com/PID-Temperature-...QQcmdZViewItem
It looks like it would do the job, but I would e-mail the seller to make sure that it comes with a schematic... and make sure you're adept at wiring.
i've used similar ones. auber was the company i tried and they work. cost $89 for a ramp soak model. i think they are all pretty similar. the auber was very easy to hook up but you need to match the controller to the relay or ssr. with these cheap controllers there is little customer support so don't expect alot of help from the merchant. fuji has good support, little more expensive but if you are unsure call digitry. they are the best and the most expensive but it will get done right.
one thing all the cheaper controllers have in common is that they are hard to initally program and get used to. they will take some time to learn how to use but do work.
Thats what I bought, a $35 one off ebay, came with a pyrometor.. I have been told by another member on here thought that these have high failure rates, we shall have to see, for the price though its worth experimenting IMO.
resurecting an old thread, but i need help with using a SYL 2352P for my controller, can anyone help with a wiring diagram or any info....my controller doesnt turn on when i apply power straight to pins 1 and 13 is it faulty? Im waiting on auber to get back to me already just thought id ask cus they link to this thread for kiln applications
There are a few makers that all have the basically same generic controller BUT not all are the same the ones that aubrins place has are the GOOD ONES. They happen to also be the very same ones I carry.
In single set point ones and the ramping ones. The set point ones are easy as hell to use you just set the temp and it goes to the temp you set. no programming, nothing. the ramping one is a lil bit more complicated to program it the first few times but not to hard once you know how it wants the temps and times.
One thing you need to decide tho when ordering one is if you want to use a ssr relay or a mechanical one and what voltage the relay will run off of. If using a mechanical type relay you also need some sort of power supply. that will match the input voltage of the relay. with the auberin type controllers and an ssr relay they have there own built in transformer to run an ssr. But not on the mechanical relay models.
If you already got one of them controllers and want a better wiring digram or instructions to use the ramping model PM me and I'll send you it. I even have a nice short cheat sheet for the ramping model.
Wrong pins. your incoming power to power the controller needs to go in to the #9 and #10 terminals.Quote:
resurecting an old thread, but i need help with using a SYL 2352P for my controller, can anyone help with a wiring diagram or any info....my controller doesn't turn on when i apply power straight to pins 1 and 13 is it faulty? I'm waiting on auber to get back to me already just thought id ask cus they link to this thread for kiln applications
Edit:
The other pins #1 and #13 are an alarm switch circuit. For If using an alarm or somthing that you want to turn on or off at a certian set point is what thats used for. you need to run the power from a transformer threw them terminals.
#13 is the common in and either pin #1 or #14 is used depending if you want it to use a normally open (no) circuit or a normally closed (nc) circuit to control the alarm. (usually the NO one is used)
for a mechanical relay type controller pins 7 and 8 are used to send power threw to your relays input. (there just a switch circuit) in terminal #8 and out threw #7
BUT if its one for ssr out put then it directly out puts its own 12vdc from pins #7 and #8, #7 is the +(positive) #8 is the - (negative)
Not as cheap but I Put a orton feild kit controller on my analog 99ls and used it for years before passing it on for a bigger kiln.I drilled a hole in the top of the kiln for the thermal couple unhooked the analog and plugged the kiln to the controller .
make sure you check the spec sheet for the $35 PID controller from ebay, I bought one that said it went to 1600 Degrees F, said it worked with a k type thermocouple. It sure did, but it only went to 400 Degrees F with a k type, needed a R or S type to achieve temps over 600 degrees F. Those thermocouples cost upwards of $200.
I will eventually use the piece of crap for a warming kiln to warm rods.
Live and learn.:twitch:
teachmeh wow that bites to hear. I had a similar experience about 8 years ago when I bought some real nice red lion controllers some one was selling out a surplus lot. I checked all the specs as far as power and relay output, the thermocouple type, and like a fool I failed to notice it was only a 3 digit display and so they could only read as high as 999 degrees.