loosing my silver??

[electrodrummer2001]

hey guys...i have been noticing that by the time i have finished a i/o spoon..sometimes my fume vanishes in the body of the pipe....it will be at the flare end and at the soon to be mouth peice....i dont know if i am burning it away...or what...i know there is plenty of silver fume when i close the flare....this doesnt happen all the time...maybe 2 out of 5 peices...i just want to correct the problem...you can see what i meen at my gallery
thanks guys
http://www.glasspipes.org/Gal29517_improving_my_I_O.asp

[garrick]

ive always had this same problem and i think i may have even asked this same question here before.
im always trying different methods and although its much less of a problem than it used to be i have yet to find anything foolproof. ive also always used simax and people seem to have the opinion that it doesnt take to fume as well as some of the other brands.

[garrick]

here you go this is the thread i started awhile back

http://www.thegldg.com/forum/showthr...ng+silver+fume

i have been having luck with matts suggestion of heating it back up from cold especially with honeycombs lately.

[mer]

i like the ones with less fume better.

[ACE]

i like the ones with less fume better.

yeah im kinda for the less is more bit as well...

but...

just out of curiousity, and this may be a stupid question and im sure you've already tried it, but do you try to reduce it when you're done with your shaping? in my experience, even when it doesn't look like it's there it usually is, you just have to coax it out a little.

[Frankie Hess]

Heat up the inside of the point good before you fume. I just use a bigger flame while applying my color inside so it stays pretty warm and I quickly go over it with the flame before I fume.

You also want to fume straight up into the piece first, then fume the flare. So you get even fume throughout the piece.

Be careful not to over oxidize the piece when you're melting it down, this will burn out the fuming. This is most likely caused from turning the center fire oxy up to high during the melt down. Unless you're cranking the hell out of your outer oxy. Or cranking your oxy period if you're running a Red Max style burner.

http://www.thegldg.com/forum/showthr...=fuming+crappy
here is a link where I posted a full explination of my fuming tech.

[mer]

[garrick]

but how do you explain when you lay it on thick (until white) and you still lose it? thats why ive never really been able to trust the less is better method, i figure if im gonna lose alot then im definably gonna lose a little. im sure its got alot to do with how much the piece is worked for me. i can do really simple stuff with a nice fume no problem but anything that is more than a quick stretch and or blow i have good days and bad days

[Gibsons Glassworks]

oxy flame will burn off silver, make sure to just hit it a redusing flame, i think hitting the silver with a bit of flame helps stick it on, and you dont need much to get a nice look. try trapping under clear

[redbeard]

the bowl end and the mouthpiece still have the fume 'cause you "worked the fume in" which means you need to heat up the fume to reddish hue after you apply. use a neutral flame, actually try different flames to work in fume, but don't linger in one spot for long, you'll burn off fume. then close up tube, and proceed. hope you understand that......after fuming, hit all that fume with flame till glows red. then fume is "worked in" as i was taught, and won't burn off quite so easily. have fun!

[Fire on the mountain]

strike it in the kiln at a really high temp they should come back

[preglassok]

there's a thread i wrote about a year ago..it was about my honeycombs and the fume disappearing. Matt gave some excellent advice on kiln striking the fume to make it come back out. Sometimes when it looks like there's no fume left anymore, those pieces end up looking great after kiln striking it a few times. good luck. heres the thread-
http://www.thegldg.com/forum/showthr...ycomb+problems

[electrodrummer2001]

you guys rock...yeah i try all kinds of flames...im working on a namtion 8m torch....i dont really understand all the differnt flames...YET...im getting there..yeah like i said.. this doesnt happen all the time..when i do try heating fume befor i close i usually get the cooler effects...so i will keep trying differnt stuffand go back and read the other threads....and yeah preglassok, you are def right..the peices that do look un-shure mostly do turn out looking 'great after' fume wise.
thanks much

[Alfred]

Silver strikes.

[nodice]

In my experience, using a flame that has shorter candles while melting/shaping might just be the solution....

[$$$$$$$]

when fuming ISO, fume your silver, oxidize it away, reduce it back then close down your flare and ball out.

[jiminyrootkit]

when fuming ISO, fume your silver, oxidize it away, reduce it back then close down your flare and ball out.

x2
-f