WTB Kiln Parts for home build

[hngntuf]

Howdy all, I am doing a home build on a kiln and wanted to check here before I hit ebay. I need ramp/soak controller, TC, SSR ,and heat sink. Maybe even a fan if someone can tell me about electrical hook-up. Trying to do this right but I gotta save where I can. If you have some spare parts to sell cheap, please hit me up. L-marver for large torch would be good too.

Mucho thanks,
Stephen

[glasspope]

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...=index&cPath=1

Great place and the service is outstanding

[hngntuf]

yeah GP, thanks for the link. I've checked out all the sites and will have to use auberins, joppa, ebay, or duralite if no one on here comes through. It sux to be po.

Stephen

[ReLo442]

I second auberins. I have built 3 kilns now all with auber controllers. The $76 ramp soak controller is great, I like it alot better than the confusing fuji controllers that seem to be so popular.

I get all my elements from Duralite (stocked ones) or from Euclids (custom ones). They also carry all the little connectors, lead wire and most other parts you need.

Ebay is the best place for a SSR unless you want to pay another site more money for them to buy it from ebay and then sell it to you.

You don't wanna use used parts on any of these. A single piece of the puzzle goes out and your kiln no longer works. Even buying everything brand new you can build a kiln for under $200. I actually have a spare for everything but the controller. TC's seems to go out pretty often so defiantly have an extra of those on hand if you cant be without 2 weeks of down time when it does go out.

[smutboy420]

Tho I dont list them on my website. But I stock the 30 step programable controllers and single set point controllers for ssr outout, as well as The SSR relays

[OracleGlassArts]

Auber is the shit! I've been using mine for a tad less than 2 years without any hickups. Shouts to my boy siuyu lu! (I think that's his name anyways)

I need some element calculations yet. All I can find are round about explanations of how wattage relates to kiln size....wtf does that mean for elements then? There's no chart or anything that says x watts= y element guage and length and distance between coils.

[hngntuf]

I went ahead and ordered from Auberins, everything I need I think except the element. Having the same trouble as above. Already routed(sawed) 2 runs per brick(2 brick high) and hoping for the best. Have to keep this @ 110v, but I can increase breaker if need be.

I sent an email to a place that makes custom elements, gave them all info I had and thought they could make me one. Here's what I got back.....

"Hi Stephen,
I would need the gauge, and ohm readings, in order to make you an element".

All that from a pile of bricks?? Geez

Stephen

[ReLo442]

I need some element calculations yet. All I can find are round about explanations of how wattage relates to kiln size....wtf does that mean for elements then? There's no chart or anything that says x watts= y element guage and length and distance between coils.

I would need the gauge, and ohm readings, in order to make you an element".

Stephen

Normally you take the internal volume of the kiln (L x W x H) and multiple by 2.5-3 to get WATTS needed. Ex kiln is 9"x9"x9" on the INSIDE means volume of 729 cubic inches. Now multiply by 2.5-3 and get approx 2000 watts which is about the max you can run on a 20amp 110V circuit. If you are making a custom element, I tell them "I need a 110V 2000 watt element with a finished length of 120 inches" They determine the ohm and guage and all that shit.

OR you can do what I do. Find out how many watts you need, in the case of our example around 2000. Go to the duralite website and look at their "stock elements" meaning ones they make and have on hand all the time. They list multiple different 110V elements as well as 220V. Then you just choose the one you need based on wattage, and make sure the working length is correct. Usually they are "working length 60-130 inches" or something like that. That means you need to stretch it when you get it, at least to 60" or at most to 130". As long as the length you need is within that range your good.

To measure your element length use a piece of rope approximatly as thick as the element and lay it in the grooves. Dont pull the rope TIGHT but not loosy goosey either.

Any other questions pm me. really busy with work right now.....

[hngntuf]

Ok... Now that is some useful information. Thanks for taking the time to explain it on my level. Jack and bastard rafters, stringers(wooden), and even 3 stage crown are easier than this for me. Too bad kilns aren't made of wood.

Stephen

[jr23]

I would build a few while your at it and then you can sell one and have yours for free.

I mean there's really nothing to it. Your parts budget goes up a bit but you get it back and can keep the best one.

[ReLo442]

I would build a few while your at it and then you can sell one and have yours for free.

I mean there's really nothing to it. Your parts budget goes up a bit but you get it back and can keep the best one.

I basically did this except the "2nd" one is larger than the 1st one and still doesnt have any electronics or a door. I do have the element as well as a SSR, toggle switches, fuses, blablabla just needs its own TC and controller...oh and a door.

oh I didnt sell the second one....I kept it to waste bench space

[hngntuf]

Welp, it has begun. Mortared the sides and back today and have another question. My punty door is 6.5 in. wide and the opening is 4.5 in tall. I plan on bolting a brick to the door but I'm not sure how much room to leave for kaowool(if any). I guess I'm being anal, but this has to work the first time. No funds for another try. Thanks for any advice.

Stephen

[smutboy420]

Jack and bastard rafters, stringers(wooden), and even 3 stage crown are easier than this for me. Too bad kilns aren't made of wood.

God dam. I spent most of yesterday afternoon thinking pretty much the opposite thing while fighting with getting the roof rafters Right on a shed/workshop I'm building. I wished it was something else other then wood.

[ReLo442]

Welp, it has begun. Mortared the sides and back today and have another question. My punty door is 6.5 in. wide and the opening is 4.5 in tall. I plan on bolting a brick to the door but I'm not sure how much room to leave for kaowool(if any). I guess I'm being anal, but this has to work the first time. No funds for another try. Thanks for any advice.

Stephen

leave enough room for something to stick out...usually about a 1" gap at the bottom is good but you can go 1.5" and then use some of that stuff to make the gap a lil more forgiving. Take a point of 44mm (or a piece of 44 on a blowtube) and set it in there with the handle sticking out. see if you can close the door.

On mine I have always left a approx 1-1.5 in gap thats open when im working, then when im done (assuming nothing is sticking out anymore) I put a piece of brick in the gap to completely seal it in. helps with annealing cuz the element doesnt have to work as hard to slowly drop temp.

[hngntuf]

Once again, thanks man. If I ever get to the point of selling something, I may have to share...or not. ;P

Stephen

[ReLo442]

Im always down to trade glass so just shoot me a PM when your ready.