Hollow Ornament Annealing

[Bernieb]

Just wondering what others do?
We leave a small hole near the sheppard’s hook hanger or, if they have a tail, we open that end and polish or seal after kiln annealing. Several years ago an instructor told he did not kiln anneal his ornaments, telling me “if they get dropped they will break anyway, even if annealed”. Thanks....

[kage]

For thin ones ill flame anneal them just a little, then bench cool and batch anneal to 1050 for about 30 min.

[colonel4bin]

I anneal mine at 1040 for 30 min, bring it down to 800 degrees slowly and just crash from there. Some people don't anneal their ornaments but I've had issues with color cracking years later if left unannealed. So while he's right they will break if dropped it would be a shame to have them break just sitting on a shelf or hanger.

[Robbyyou]

seal and anneal, never had a problem

[menty666]

I give it a good soot coating then bench cool while still on the point handle

Clean it off with a rag once cool.

Heat the handle a few inches from the bulb, use the diamond shears to constrict and snap at that point, then flame polish the opening.

Use a pair of tweezers and a gentle flame to heat and shape the hook, leaving it open. Then I pop it in the kiln to anneal.

At the beginning of the season I usually screw up the first couple of hooks so I usually start with a couple of clear practice ones while the muscle memory returns.

[Ybot]

there is a killer corning video where he says you just have to make sure all moisture is out of them then seal and anneal..

[J Howard]

i like to seal them off hot so there's a vacuum in there. seal it off cold and anneal for too long they will bloat and look pregnant (striking china red for example). it's more fun to drop one with a vacuum, it sounds like a lightbulb - might as well give em a bang for their buck. and no, it doesnt make them more dangerous... if anything the shards stay put better and aren't as jagged.

[Prekillcrum]

Bump. I'm curious about what others have to say.

[rah]

Annealing is considered professional so I guess anneal your glass if you're selling a professional product.

My vote is seal and anneal. Though just leaving a hole in the glass leaves the possiblity to add a metal hook and cap like the classic ornaments.

[hashmasta-kut]

it depends on teh ornament. if you make typical super thin ones and know how to flame anneal well, thats pretty legit. solid stuff and or thicker is more risky.

[RamblezMarblez]

I like a hole on the bottom...then the air inside will cool down at the same temp. of the air outside the pyrex wall...Therefore when I have to fill up a kiln with AP or Cherrywood xmas bulbs (kiln striking of course), I don't have to worry bout them exploding in my kiln because they heated up too fast for the air inside the bulb. Pros...Cool down fast, Warm up fast...

Seriously, don't bring this crap into the forums "instructor told he did not kiln anneal his ornaments, telling me “if they get dropped they will break anyway, even if annealed”. Thank...Why make your bed? Your just going to mess it all up sleeping later... I've dropped many pyrex xmas bulbs...they've all bounced so far...

[828glass]

for nice and thick ornaments that are made with american color and built to last of course you kiln them just like a normal pipe. if your making some cheap thin crap that will break the first time it is dropped thats another story

[Prekillcrum]

I was also curious how many people seal them off. From what I understand leaving some sort of relief hole makes them last longer.

[828glass]

i always claw grabber up to them and tear a hole where the blow tube was, then put the bail right over the hole, so people can put a light inside them. they are defiantly stronger with a hole in them no doubt about it

[talonst]

link to the Corning video Ybot mentioned - It's Jim Byrnes.

http://jamesfbyrnesblownglass.com/ne...-demonstration

[NUBBLET]

I condense an area i want to cut of then make the ornie grab with holders and condense the area closed working up the handle a lil bit then tear off and loop

[T-Rex]

Nice video, talonst. That guy moves so slow, all careful and methodical. Really clean work though. It has to be - if you just use clear with a few stripes on it, you gotta make it super crisp otherwise it looks plain and janky.

Before closing it off he reheats the entire piece real nice. Then it gets closed in one smooth and quick motion - doesn't get put back in the flame to polish it whatsoever. If you try to put it back in it'll do the crumple thing since by now it has cooled off slightly and there is less pressure inside the piece. You could probably flash the entire piece if you needed to try doing the point again.

I was pretty surprised to see that the last batch of ornaments I made look exactly like Jim's. Actually, let me re-phrase that - the design is pretty much the same, but his are way better haha. Not that it really matters. I've only had time to spend a couple days making these to date, and I'm still stumbling around tweaking my design as I see what I like and don't like.

Apparently red tubing stopped being made around the time I started lampworking. Really hope more of it gets made one day!! Sooo perfect for Christmas ornaments.

[Nomad]

Pyrex is self annealing up to 3 mm thickness. So the ornament you don't need to put in the annealer but the hooks on them are larger then that. So I fill my annealer at 1050 all day long then 30 minutes soak and shut it off. Let it cool with the door closed and you should be fine.
I have a small hole at the bottom of mine.

[somewhere]

A sealed ornament will be much stronger and durable then one with a hole.

[H1JACK3R]

Pyrex is self annealing up to 3 mm thickness.

Please elaborate?