The latest pipe ive made (feedback always wanted)

**TCsGlassworks** · 09-29-2013, 05:37 PM

Frit work with some silver fume

Feedback?

**Captain Glass** · 09-29-2013, 06:03 PM

Mouthpiece looks like it could be worked in a lil better but I like the color a lot.

**TCsGlassworks** · 09-29-2013, 06:11 PM

Originally Posted by smokinsluuu

Mouthpiece looks like it could be worked in a lil better but I like the color a lot.

thank you for your feedback,

im gonna poke around the site for techs. on making the mouthpiece better

**Icarus** · 09-30-2013, 05:03 AM

I would say polish your bowl a bit to remove the chill marks. If you warm the push a little before you push, that will help, but also then go in there and use a tiny flame to remove the ridges in the inside of your bowl. I usually use a small graphite reamer to test mine. If I can run the reamer from hole to edge in a few spots without feeling ridges, it's good.

Also, a small triangular file (like the third from the left in the pic below) will help you open your hole back up if it starts to get to small while you are polishing your bowl. Another helpful tool that you can make at your torch is a "bowl hole size tester". Just take a 3-4" piece of 3 mil and a piece of 4 mil of similar length, fuse them together in the middle (I put a little knob of color between the two, so I know it's not just a normal piece of rod, and to give myself something to grip). Then flame cut each end so they come to a slight taper (but make sure they don't bulge beyond the original size of the rod). I wish I had a picture, but I'm not at the shop right now.

Anyway, now you have a bowl hole size tester. Now if you want to know if the hole is the right size, once it's cooled off enough that the glass won't tag together, try sticking the 3 mil side into the hole. If it's doesn't go in, your hole is too small. If it does go in, flip it around. Does the 4 mil side go through the hole? If so, you're hole is too big. But if the 3 mil side will pass through the hole, but the 4 mil side won't, you're goldilocks, and it's just right.

Click image for larger version.

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**Icarus** · 09-30-2013, 05:07 AM

Also, i would say you need to melt your frit in more. See by the mouthpiece where it looks like there is kind of pockets of air with little bits of glass kind of connected to the inner side of the tube? That's exactly what that is, and all of those are spots that a crack can start. Gotta melt that stuff in. Even when you think it's melted in, melt it in some more, as there might be peaks and high spots and partially unmelted bits on the inside of the tube that you can't see from the outside that could allow a crack to start.

**Trevor** · 09-30-2013, 07:23 AM

FO SHO melt that shit in yo! what size tube are you using? thinner wall will make it easier I recently tried 38x2.5 and melting in was cake
also if you pop your bowl hole just a little more towards the mouthpiece your bowl angle should face you more
nice pipe dude the fume over frit looks pretty slick

**TCsGlassworks** · 09-30-2013, 06:03 PM

Originally Posted by Icarus

Also, i would say you need to melt your frit in more. See by the mouthpiece where it looks like there is kind of pockets of air with little bits of glass kind of connected to the inner side of the tube? That's exactly what that is, and all of those are spots that a crack can start. Gotta melt that stuff in. Even when you think it's melted in, melt it in some more, as there might be peaks and high spots and partially unmelted bits on the inside of the tube that you can't see from the outside that could allow a crack to start.

sounds good. once i get back on the torch i'm gonna melt the hell out of the mouth piece. how about the frit work on the other half of the pipe...is it worked in enough?

Originally Posted by Trevor

FO SHO melt that shit in yo! what size tube are you using? thinner wall will make it easier I recently tried 38x2.5 and melting in was cake
also if you pop your bowl hole just a little more towards the mouthpiece your bowl angle should face you more
nice pipe dude the fume over frit looks pretty slick

Thanks man! the tube is 31x4mm. i'm gonna try popping the hole closer like you said.. unfortunately i'm waiting on a new kiln. mountain glass call today saying it could be a few weeks until they get it back in stock.

**TlkQ** · 09-30-2013, 06:43 PM

It's hard to tell if it's melted in but from the way the light is refracting I doubt it. You want to let it get super sloppy and condense down until you think you're going to close it up before you puff it back out. I use fine frit on 32 mil all day. I can 99% of the time get it all melted in with just one condescension. If I use larger frit I have to blow it out and condense it again a few more times.

**TCsGlassworks** · 09-30-2013, 06:49 PM

Originally Posted by TlkQ

It's hard to tell if it's melted in but from the way the light is refracting I doubt it. You want to let it get super sloppy and condense down until you think you're going to close it up before you puff it back out. I use fine frit on 32 mil all day. I can 99% of the time get it all melted in with just one condescension. If I use larger frit I have to blow it out and condense it again a few more times.

i have an order with ABR for some small or fine frit... gonna have to try it out once it comes in

**TlkQ** · 09-30-2013, 09:21 PM

Small takes way more effort than fine. I used to use all sizes. Now I just use fine because it burns in so easy.

**Matt P** · 09-30-2013, 10:43 PM

Originally Posted by TlkQ

Small takes way more effort than fine. I used to use all sizes. Now I just use fine because it burns in so easy.

fine frit is definitely the answer for quick, easier I/O work. The larger sizes can give some cool textures and effects (w/ strikers) but fine is all I use for prodo. Much less problems with checking that way.