How about cold-working, then flame-polishing?
Anyone have a good tech for making a water glass without a lathe or HA tubing holder? Ive tried punty to the base, but of course thats way too much stress for the weight and cracks the base every time. Im sure I could bridge a few punty grabs to the base and make it work, or add a groove near the base for claw grabbers but I prefer the aesthetics of a straight glass. Just curious if anyone came up with a good way to finish off drinking glass lips.
How about cold-working, then flame-polishing?
I like this idea a lot! Would need some good 2k gloves though, that flame would be really close to your hand
You could improvise a holding device with some wood and some wire. It doesn't take much control to flame-polish.
sounds like a fun project! thanks for the great advice dustyg!
You should be able to hold the lip with grabbers and then flatten the bottom.
i guess make the base thicker and or use a thinner punty? i make tons of glasses and mugs, and always put a handle on the bottom, usually tenmm to match the other handle on the blow tube end. never ever broke the bottom out, unless it was a cold weld then thats a different story.
another good idea, thanks!
Interesting I used a 10mm punty hot weld on my last attempt with a 4-5mm thick base and still got a nice crack through the center. Maybe I need to make the base even thicker? I havent been breaking the bottom out, theyve been getting huge cracks through the bottom through the punty
my guess is that crack was heat base related...but that's just spec.
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Crack= not hot nuf' , you need to treat that punty connection like the mouth piece of a I.o. Sparkly spoon , baby that thing , flash it with heat every 30 or 45 seconds as you Work it . I make extra large jars this way (the only way to have the control you need for the finish IMO) I make full size pint glasses that color change when you pour a stout . And I add marbles that go between a " drunks " fingers , less likely to drop it. And yes they are heavy , but the base is 4or 5 mm like a normal pint glass , and is made the same way.
word....i knew someone with more knowledge would help out here!
You shouldn't be having sex for pleasure, only for reproduction.
Thousands of people read my threads now. So I’m trying to not embarrass myself.
pretty sure he's referring to a cold/warm seal. of course if it was a full on weld, not so much care needs to be taken.
You shouldn't be having sex for pleasure, only for reproduction.
Thousands of people read my threads now. So I’m trying to not embarrass myself.
You leave the punty on it ? How does it stand ? ( just kidding ) 2 schools of thought , let the handle cool , knowing you will kiln it back up in the end before removal. Or #2 keep it all hot , the punty is added close to the last step . If you keep it all up to temp , you just finish it off in one session on the torch . ( yes a perfect punty , or cold seal , should not crack the piece on its own. If you don't have the skills to do that perfect punty ..... keeping it hot is another option that has almost no fail rate .)
Any pictures of your fumed pint glasses boro? those sound sick!
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yea we want pics. we want pics! we want pics!
come on everyone join in!!
WE WANT PICS!!
You shouldn't be having sex for pleasure, only for reproduction.
Thousands of people read my threads now. So I’m trying to not embarrass myself.
How do you like the arnold grabbers? Nice vessels btw
the 3 claw grabber is the nicest grabber Arnold has i think
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