Thanks KLAW. I agree that the rod rest is a piss poor design. As you can see i have a white 7mm rod holding it up so it dosnt flop all over the place. I didnt know there were other rod rest options available, but if you would be so kind to point a ninja in the right direction, it would be greatly appreciated.
I got to spend a couple hours on the torch last night after work. It took me a little over an hour to make this, but I took my time to make sure everything was even and straight. I seemed to get a decent looking weld on this one. Im beginning to understand a little more, each time.
Well this piece didnt fair so well. I noticed a crack in the stem when i removed it from the kiln, so i brought it back up to 1050 and tried to fix it. As soon as i got near the weld with the flame, the can seperated from the stem, fell and broke into 3 pieces. I thought I had them pretty good and hot before joining them. Is there a possibility that I am gathering too much glass at the connection point. From watching videos, I have noticed that most people ream out the holes and make the connection point fairly thin before heating them and joining the 2 pieces. I guess i will take a stab at that method this evening and then try and condense the weld once they are joined. Are there any other ideas that you guys think i may be doing wrong?
A little update. I can begin to see better consistancy in condensing and keeping the walls even when blowing out the bubble. Every once in a while i still have a slip up here and there, but i try not to get discouraged. Lately i have been on a wrap and rake kick, and been trying to get better at welding pieces together. Axis, I tried the bridge on this one and can definately see where it helps out when working the on the weld. Thanks.
Stayed pretty busy for the most part this weekend, but got in a little torch time for the better part of sunday and monday. Im finally starting to get some decent results with my fuming. I just need to learn more about the striking process.
I was making some plain frit spoons the other day and they all came out great except for this one. The frit is super unobtainium. I even tried a second one because i liked the color, and damn if that one did the same thing. Is there something im missing here. Does this color not work well in I/O applications?
"super 0" is a fickle mistress. It can work on the inside ....... but will always be a risk. It is so sparkle , like the 70's motorcycle flake paint..mmmmmmmmmmm one of my all time favorites ... when it was first released..... I thought it was better than my 0g moss that was quickly running out...too bad it's not as forgiving at all. ( I still love it )
It will work most times in in side out with stringers if...... 1. the stringers are really really thin. 2. you make some cane that is only part super 0, the other clear or the othere color in the cane will keep the c0e closer to the same.
It does not like to be in side out , and be little dots. Dots from stringers , or frit.... the dots always coe crack right on the dot..... frit super 0 pipes... I doubt it... I would try one that is way way less frit...like 1/3 frit 2/3 clear in between , with fume on the inside after the frit is stuck.( But still may blow up. I think one may come out, but even if it does , it will still be hit or miss , and may crack weeks later any way. )
long story short , in side out "super 0" frit pipe..... n0pe.
I little more of my progress from the last 2 weeks. Really happy with the colors I got out of the fume in the last bubbler.
The last pic is a shload of blowtubes, shorts of tube/rod and full tube/rods of all sizes that a friend gave me because he is moving and didnt want to have to move it all.
Thanks Jimmi. Its one of my better ones so far. Im still trying to figure out the secrets to getting the vivid spectrum with fume. It seems to be hit and miss game.
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