Bunsen burner basics

[BORO]

Title is self explanatory...

When is the correct time to use one on your bench?

Pictures sure would help.

I have trouble keeping fume on the glass with my 40mm. It's almost like the fume takes longer, glass gets cooler.... Bunsen to the rescue?

I had axis to one during a large project last month. In the end, I was afraid I would
1. Crack some attachment, trying to control 2 heat bases?
2. I was worried I would get a reducing environment, making sparkles angry. Rubies livery, common reduction issues?

It was a Humboldt air and propane burner. It was tall, but not too tall for my set up?

I like the look of that Carlisle shorty 4 barrel, but really have no real world experience with any Bunsen.
I saw the thread with that trick electric one, is it worth it? Game changer?


Maybe someone can post a picture of their set up. Or even a action shot, or explanation?

I know I used to kiln stuff between attachments. Lately I just keep walking the heat across the piece and keep adding a few attachments/bridges at a time... Even 10+ min work cycles. No cracking, but it still seems like I'm missing out somehow?

kinda like discovering jacks, or a L marver? (still don't own a L )

Mods, feel free to move this where ever is preferred.

[oG Glocc Coma]

I too am very interested in a Bunsen burner, saw that thread with those awesome electric ones but my main concern is knocking it over and torching my entire house!

Do you lock the bunsen down to a spot on the table with screws? that is how my torch is attached right now.

[Icarus]

I've got rather limited experience, as I only got mine a few months ago, and I don't work nearly as complicated of stuff as some of you.

I picked up one of the Fireboy bunsen that Khan so helpfully showed us all a while back. Mine did not come with a pedal, so I switched the switch on the bottom to turn on via that circular touch sensor in the middle. Then I took a bike spoke and bent it around the barrel with the spoke head pointing downwards and at the same distance as the sensor. Then I set it on the sensor to make contact, so every time the burner received power, it would sense there was contact with the sensor and kick on the fuel and piezo igniter to ignite the flame. Then I ran the power from it to a latching foot pedal (this one from Harbor Freight).

I then mounted this and my foot pedal for my main torch on a board with a triangle of wood sticking up between the two of them to separate them (this is so I can feel with my foot which one I'm hitting, and not accidentally kick on both at the same time).

The burner itself is awesome. It can put out a hell of a flame if you want it to. I don't know if it puts out as much as the 4 barrel bunsens, but probably about as much as a Meker burner if you turn it up all the way, and way more than most of the single barrel bunsens you see. Plus, to address oGC's concern, trying to knock it over would be like trying to knock a turtle laying on flat ground on it's side. It's flat, heavy and low to the ground. It would be almost impossible to turn it on it's side unless you were actively attempting to do it.

I'd been wanting a bunsen for a while. I tend to cook the faces on GTT's a bit, cause I'll dial it back to an annealing flame, and then forget to re-add some blue knob to the flame once I start working (super bad habit, try to not develop this), so I really wanted it for the ability to reheat stuff without having to throw it in the kiln. But having an always on flame kind of freaked me out, as I don't want to burn my house down, and I was worried about it getting knocked over or in the way. The Fireboy really kind of solved that for me. It's super low and unobtrusive, but can push out a high flame, and I like the fact that I can switch it on and off without having to have a pilot light or something always going.

I picked mine up for $60 shipped off ebay. It's definitely more than some single barrel ones, but when you consider the ease of use, gas savings from only being on when you need it, and piece of mind from not having a constantly running flame going, I think it was well worth it, and would do it again in a heartbeat.

[oG Glocc Coma]

Thanks Icarus, I was worried more about the single barrel burners but I think id really like to go with a fireboy unit... only one I see on ebay right now is local pickup only in NJ...too far for me!

[BORO]

Saw some deals on eBay.... Don't know where you were looking...

Once I made fireboy one word... It was on

I'm broke, so have at it (25$?!)

[Icarus]

The 4220 is the one I picked up. Some of those are meant to run on DC, (at least the second one is), so read the auction details carefully.

[BORO]

This^^ for even more reasons than just the d.c.

The one for pick up in n.j. Is "for parts"


Pretty easy to source a d.c. Wall wort that will put out the correct current.

The cheap one may be total crap, broken knob , who knows.

Just saw more than one. They sure do look fancy.

Not sure if more bells and whistles is to my advantage, or a p.i.t.a. If its already broken somehow.

Good tip to know the model that worked well for you icarus...

[oG Glocc Coma]

Yes, I meant the Model 4220 was the only one I saw and a reasonable price(didn't notice it was parts only)! but then I got to looking and found some cool stuff


Check out this one!
Bellco Bunsen

I was reading up and some come with an IR switch(Wave your hand in front of it) but have a timer... not sure if the timer can be turned off(lolol, stupid internet I almost put "Turnt")

[BORO]

I don't know how far that box is from the flame, but I know it would bug the crap out of me...

(too bad, its nice too)

So this quickly became "what Bunsen is best" (that's fine too)

I still want to know when, where , how , and weather its going to reduce it all to mud?


Come on Stroker, you wax poetic when it comes to Bunsen love. ( ❤ pretty please?)

[oG Glocc Coma]

Yea, sorry for going off-topic

PS - Sorry for all the posting today... Im super BORED at work!

[STROKER]

Once you go bunsen you never go back.
They are truly a game changer as far as complicated builds and time saving is involved.
They take a bit of getting used to having a big bushy flame surrounding your piece while you work but once you get the hang of how to work in it, it is like how the fuck did I build stuff without one before.
I have no experience with the fireboy although it looks like a solid setup I may try sometime.
I use the meker high heat version and the Carlisle 4barrel.
I prefer the meker as it get really hot but with a super spread out fluffy flame. I find the 4 barrels a bit more of a direct heat and a bit harder for me to work over.
They are super light so I duct taped a 3lb weight to bottom of mine and I never worry about knocking of the lathe or bench.
I keep it under the lathe or bench on a block when not in use.
Hi heat bunsen allow me to keep far more surface area warm and ready to work than a reg bunsen.
Since they love propane more than my delta I do give it it's own propane tank with its own reg and a shut off valve on the the unit close enough to easily turn gas on and off when needed.
Since I always have a bench burner going I can easily relight the bunsen any time from the big torch flame that's going.
I would not personally use anything but a high heat version as they really are quite a bit hotter than a normal bunsen.
I know I can thank bunsens for getting some of the big complex stuff I build these days.
Going in and out of a kiln is such a pain that this really is a game changer for many.

[D.D. Sherpa]

I haven't put a bunsen on bench yet, I know that is what this thread is about, but I am certainly looking forward to it. On the lathe I use two Carlisle short single barrels bunsens. Both have been affixed to magnets to make moving and mounting easy. I have definitely run into reduction issues for some colors. Unfortunately there is no way around it that I know of. Most of the colors like caramel, and the exotics I don't worry about during assembly but will go back and brush the reduction off with a small oxidizing flame last. With reds that liver out I just try to be really careful about how long they hang in the bunsen, I don't know any way around it but would love to hear what everybody else thinks.

[STROKER]

I actually have less reduction issue with the high heat meker than the 4 barrel. Honestly the flames don't look even remotely alike between the two

[BORO]

Awesome sauce

Any certain model of meeker? I saw a few options...

And this...

Open to interpretation.
Not making any claims, Just thought it interesting.

[somewhere]

They do make NG and propane versions. The NG version will have air shutter that doesn't close all the way. They can be modified and used but I have run into different results from the same pressure to what looks to be two identical burners. My gut tells me the NG version will have a larger orfice.

I'll second the merker and it's clone the fisher. The fishers for the most point can be identified by the grid diffuser in the top not a screen or round hole diffuser. I actually think the fisher to be a better burner but they are very close.

A lab stand by your torch with a 3 prong clamp and possibly a burette clamp and ring support. You can easily set pieces to warm while you prep the rest of the work. I use the ring stand with custom quartz holders to keep production work moving along. A auto turner can also be a sweet addition to making the most out of warming burners.

For years we used compressed air and gas in the national with annealing burners made by Carlisle. They are nostalgically missed but I rarely need them for what I make now. They will cast a huge bushy flame that will anneal the largest of work where a Bunsen just can't reach. If you really use the Bunsen a lot and have compressed air I highly recommend you get one. Let me see if I can find a link. Here ya go http://carlislemachine.com/webcatalo...urner_tips.pdf
Stroker I could probably spare one if you want to try it out. You may appreciate it more then most. Although it says it can be used with just aspirated air you need compressed air to really get the full range. If you have a tall stand a national can be attached and just set in from of the lathe or you can always lay the national on the bed of the lathe. I'm sure you would figure it out after you see the flame.

I know I have a few of those large pancake burners and can't remember for the life of me ever using them. Does anyone know what I'm referring to and does anyone use them?

[BORO]

Auto turner ?! WTF

[gomilobster]

I have a carlisle 4 barrel I have not had a chance to hook up yet while between setups. This makes me kinda wanna look into the fisher you mention. I like the idea of a more bushy flame, but I think I will really enjoy the 4 barrel, and its cheap enough anyway. I have been thinking of looking into lab stands or some kind of clamping armature that I can move about with some things attached. Love the idea of an auto turner... I feel like I would be more willing to attempt some interesting things with the bunsen than without. Could some compressed air help bush out the 4 barrel in your opinion?

[nicko0]

i got a fisher burner with air and gas input. how much air willl it need?

and can i plug the air inlet (it has no valve) and just use the gas valve? im thinking no cause the port is so huge i dont see it venturiing very well.

[nicko0]

anyone built proper functioning bunsens out of glass? seems simple enough.

[BK]

I have.

You dont need a Bunsen on your bench homie, I haven't read through the thread but if you have specific questions fire awaty via pm I ony check post. If you have to get one get a 4 barrel Carlisle, hate those fucking meker style ones