Clean disc flips the easy way.

[BORO]

I see a lot of things in my travels. This one was worth a mention even if I don't have pics. I'm sure someone will "fill them in " later.

I recently found out some well know cats are making some quality flips. Idk if I would call them 40,000$ flips, but they do come out nice. I know some other people who draw traditional flips were not too happy about this technique. It could either lower the value of discs or flood the market. (That's enough drama back story. )

1. Take your prep you would draw a flip on. Some use tube, some make a plate to draw on, some use the end of a bubble so the flip part is easier.

2. Coat it in a very thin layer of black frit. I saw fine frit used, I think powder could work as well. You want this layer thin after its melted in.

3. Print out your image with a vinyl cutter. The image is ONLY the outline. It will be very thin vinyl, take care to apply it correctly.

Here is an example of a good outline sticker to vinyl cut.



4. Apply the sticker and sandblast the remaining exposed black off.

5. After you remove the vinyl you have a perfect crips black outline. Paint by number, fill in your image just like the pro's.

6. Market yourself and enjoy the fame and fortune.

[fUmEsNiFfEr]

Perfect for the drawing impaired!

[hashmasta-kut]

combination of two techs. Seems valid.

[Mute]

...and now nobody wants them...lol

a liked tracing paper back in second grade.

really surprised this is just coming up here

fume or bust.

[Snow Diesel]

Ok Boro and anyone else. My question is, after you sandblast what do you do to the blasted part? That would scuz up the glass right, similar to a wet saw cut where that glass likes to boil and look like shit. What am I missing here??? Gentle fire flame if your lucky. I know I'm missing something.

[BORO]

Finer blasting media?

I know how a glass on glass joint looks after you smooth the frosted area. What I witnessed did not look like that, it looked close to perfect.

[gomilobster]

Random idea... might be totally unnecessary, but you might be able to use a pad on a dremel with cerium or fine grit to polish it first if it ended up being an issue at all, like some millie. I have a rather fine polish from some chips I added to a section and the cuts were super rough, the only artifacts mostly being from the colors used vs the texture of the cut. I have also fire polished some carved pieces with some patience and luck from the same 180 to 300 grit bits. I love this idea! Thanks for sharing

[BORO]

I always wondered if working glass hot would cause issue after it was cerum polished into the pores of the glass?

[dustyg]

I always wondered if working glass hot would cause issue after it was cerum polished into the pores of the glass?

Maybe cleaning it using some pickling solution first would help? It was a big deal to pickle scummy soft glass clear a while back, and it supposedly helped mostly because it removed all of the metals from the surface that'd gotten there from metal shelving or something. You might take it a step further, and do that inside of a heated ultrasonic cleaner (if metal, you'd want to line it with plastic, or something). A cheap source for the proper chemicals was "ph down" for hot tubs, but I don't know if that's what's best.

[BORO]

So a "cut and polished w/ cerum powder" piece will scuzzy when the flame hits it?

Or the cerum burns off in the kiln first?

[dustyg]

No, I wasn't clear. The anecdote above wasn't about cerium oxide at all - just bad Effetre clear, as it comes from the distributor. I just thought it might also apply to cerium oxide, if there is an issue to fix at all, because cerium oxide is also a metal (well, cerium oxide is the oxidized form of cerium -- that's a metal, right?).

[Zed]

Toner tech will achieve your goal in much less time using many fewer steps.

[Oneiros]

Ok Boro and anyone else. My question is, after you sandblast what do you do to the blasted part? That would scuz up the glass right, similar to a wet saw cut where that glass likes to boil and look like shit. What am I missing here??? Gentle fire flame if your lucky. I know I'm missing something.

I believe a very hot bunsen can help with this. Graal approaches also require sandblasting/heating, and if you look at the work of RAM, Slinger, and others who use those techniques, there's no meaningful scuzz. Some of the folks I know who've fire polished sandblasted pieces have used a hot bunsen (and a lathe to hold the piece) to polish them, afaik.

HF acid would likely be another way to avoid scuzzing, but I wouldn't recommend that at all.