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Thread: Glory hole

  1. #1

    Default Glory hole

    Was wondering if anyone had tried rigidizer on soft insulation, I have a soft gloryhole and I read that it was a good idea as far as getting more life out of the insulation i was concerned about weather it deflected heat a great deal after the treatment?
    Anybody? Pros/cons
    Thanks M


  2. #2
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    Default Re: Glory hole

    Yes you have to use it because the soft insulation breaks down with high heat and is bad to inhale fumes. You can get silicosis. So alway paint two coats of it on glory hole.



  3. #3
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    Default Re: Glory hole

    Probably should wear a mask when handling the fiber frax to make your glory hole.
    Don’t want to cough up a lung and die.



  4. #4
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    Default Re: Glory hole

    One or two layers of duct tape. ����
    Corning suggests getting that, “reheating furnace” flavor into the vernacular. Too many hitters to pollute the google image search bruh.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Glory hole

    Pro..... ridigidezer keeps the dust from the frax at bay.
    It may last longer with the frax coated? It seems to last forever uncoated/ undisturbed. If I know its going to get tossed after it melts itself down, no coating. I know the brick is usually the first to go requiring a rebuild if your going that route. . If the frax is exposed, it's much more dangerous to do a rebuild, vs. Having it trapped. Exposed , dust can settle in the shop even after a rebuild.

    Cons.... the coated frax will absorb lots more heat. (Think high temp hard kiln brick.) It's messy to use. Once you use it no going back. Once it starts to break down it makes lots of dust.

    Fiberfrax will crystallize around 1050. Then it's super fragile and dangerous. After it hits 1050, it's similar to asbestos when you breath it in... It's more inert/ less dusty before that first heat cycle. (Still use caution!) I doubt it's all made from the same thing. Some types may have a lower crystallization point? Even using it loose to seal a boro annealing kiln is a bad idea i.m.o.

    If you know it's never going to get disturbed till it's thrown away, no coating. If you know it will get rubbed/moved /poked , cover it over.

    All the things I see and deal with on the regular, fiber frax scares me the most. I avoid it at all cost, but it's pretty irreplaceable.
    Last edited by BORO; 03-08-2019 at 10:12 PM.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Glory hole

    Frax rigidizer is also called sodium silicate or waterglass, might make it easier to find or cheaper. I’ve also used diluted refractory cement to paint frax, and welding blanket works to cover it on top of a moly furnace but I can’t see it holding up to gloryhole heat. Ask on craftweb, more old furnace guys on there.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Glory hole

    Quote Originally Posted by BurntHands View Post
    Frax rigidizer is also called sodium silicate or waterglass, might make it easier to find or cheaper. I’ve also used diluted refractory cement to paint frax, and welding blanket works to cover it on top of a moly furnace but I can’t see it holding up to gloryhole heat. Ask on craftweb, more old furnace guys on there.
    Thanks, i find it difficult to communicate with any hot shop glass blowers it's all boro here it seems, I appreciate you commenting


  8. #8

    Default Re: Glory hole

    Quote Originally Posted by BORO View Post
    Pro..... ridigidezer keeps the dust from the frax at bay.
    It may last longer with the frax coated? It seems to last forever uncoated/ undisturbed. If I know its going to get tossed after it melts itself down, no coating. I know the brick is usually the first to go requiring a rebuild if your going that route. . If the frax is exposed, it's much more dangerous to do a rebuild, vs. Having it trapped. Exposed , dust can settle in the shop even after a rebuild.

    Cons.... the coated frax will absorb lots more heat. (Think high temp hard kiln brick.) It's messy to use. Once you use it no going back. Once it starts to break down it makes lots of dust.

    Fiberfrax will crystallize around 1050. Then it's super fragile and dangerous. After it hits 1050, it's similar to asbestos when you breath it in... It's more inert/ less dusty before that first heat cycle. (Still use caution!) I doubt it's all made from the same thing. Some types may have a lower crystallization point? Even using it loose to seal a boro annealing kiln is a bad idea i.m.o.

    If you know it's never going to get disturbed till it's thrown away, no coating. If you know it will get rubbed/moved /poked , cover it over.

    All the things I see and deal with on the regular, fiber frax scares me the most. I avoid it at all cost, but it's pretty irreplaceable.
    Thanks for the info!


  9. #9

    Default Re: Glory hole

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Larry View Post
    One or two layers of duct tape.
    Corning suggests getting that, “reheating furnace” flavor into the vernacular. Too many hitters to pollute the google image search bruh.
    I think i understand what you mean, like the R rated stuff ?


  10. #10
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    Default Re: Glory hole

    I edited my post. I’ve been drinking and posting garbage. Sorry
    Last edited by Mr. Larry; 03-11-2019 at 08:34 AM.

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