steaks thread - progression

**hashmasta-kut** · 05-20-2010, 06:36 AM

it seems to me most people use thicker tubing to lay lines on. if you use 9.5mm, you dont pull it at all, it stays the initial size pretty much., when you use 25 or 32 or whatever, you make a smaller section, then stretch it to your desired diameter, and you get more tubing out of less work laying lines down.

**steak351** · 05-20-2010, 06:50 AM

i think i will start wit a smaller tube and only lay lines down, when i can do it i think i will move on tostriping and pulling down my 26 mm heavy wall

do you anneal the new tube ?

i think hippi told me to put the tube in the kiln and take it out when i want to take a section off it and then put it back in

haha i see some try and error coming my way buts thats like it is

i think ill learn much when i practice those things, jealously(idk ift that is right) looking to the reversal balls of hippi thinking to myself, man i wanna do it

yesterday i got a order for a oil dome set with dish and dabber, i have some sets i made but i think even when my buddy tells me that they are sellable i cant sell this, its crap hahaha

i am never really satified with the outcome but i thinkthats good cause it pushes me a lot to to it better

kind regards

ps what do you pay for one rod of ,idk, orange crayon?

it seems the colors are much cheaper in the usa here in germeny i pay for one rod of orange crayon(46 gramm) for example like 5 to 7 euros

maybe i get a better deal when i buy from the states

but then theres the germancustoms...

**Swampy** · 05-20-2010, 08:29 AM

Contact a blower in Holland, maybe they can direct you to a boro retailer, ship it to Enschede, drive over and bring it in under the seat of your car :o)

**steak351** · 05-20-2010, 11:12 PM

o no need to hide that stuff since its europe and we have open borders with no custom control....most people who drive to the netherlands hide other items under their seats

i tried it yesterday, man everything i tried yesterday failed even a simple implosion pendant , i made some pics of my encase with color then clear action, i think it went all wrong but maybe with the pics you can lead me to the right direction

heres the piture maybe you can see what i did wrong and guive me some tips

**hippi** · 05-20-2010, 11:31 PM

idk looks all melted in....did it explode or crack while makin it? did u put it in the kiln after you were done makin it?

**steak351** · 05-21-2010, 01:27 AM

it cracked when i drew the lines but i could melt it back together and draw the rest of the lines then i drew clear on it(10mm rod) i wanted to heat the whole thing up and blow a bubble but then one side got paperthin and collapsed, and it got tooo thick, then it cracked and cracked and cracked and i smashed it

**Rowdy** · 05-21-2010, 04:39 AM

You have to keep the piece hot as you lay down the lines, go back about every quater turn and reflash it with the flame. If you get it uneven again condense and puff it out, a marver will help also. Keep spinning - your progress looks real good, Good luck, Peace.

**ivebeenshotafied** · 05-21-2010, 05:53 AM

what helped me even more than just a marver was an L marver. so you can keep the mass more round(seems that way at least)

**hashmasta-kut** · 05-21-2010, 06:20 AM

Originally Posted by Rowdy

You have to keep the piece hot as you lay down the lines, go back about every quater turn and reflash it with the flame. If you get it uneven again condense and puff it out, a marver will help also. Keep spinning - your progress looks real good, Good luck, Peace.

true to a degree, but even more importantly is how you apply your stringers. you want them to be very hot and liquidy, and they will form a good permanent bond right away, and then you wont have cracking problems from lines already laid down but cold welded somewhere. thats what causes the cracks, an incompletely joined section, and then as it cools and contracts the two unjoined areas break from each other, dig? it most often happens at the end of your piece, where the stringers are thick and often not worked in as well. if you point your flame so that 80% of the heat, heats the applied color, and about 20% heats the substrate just where the color is being appplied, its about right to get good melted joins.

**steak351** · 05-22-2010, 05:09 AM

i think i kept it too cool the whole time

and i think the lines were too long

and i didnt used stringers i used the complete color rod to stripe down
maybe i should pull some stringers first but then i have to lay like 5 thin lines istead one thick one

and how thick is the diameter of the clear rod wich you use to encase it after the colorwork? i think my ten or twelve milimeter rod was way too thick

kind regards i will try that agai maybe a litte it smaller, because it was really heavy too

frank

**ivebeenshotafied** · 05-22-2010, 06:49 AM

lay the rod on there as thick as you can. so your color doesnt fade. and just be sure to keep the whole thing nice n warm.

i encase in one layer of 10mil. i learned to encase in 2layrs, and that was 2 layers of 10 i believe. but 1 layer of clear seems to work for me well

veteran tube pullers chime in if im wrong.( i love learning from my mistakes and correcting them so let me know. i dont want to misinform thanks)

o there gonna be heavy. thats for dam sure haha
should be able to do this in no time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MtgNkAvd-c

**hippi** · 05-22-2010, 11:35 AM

you can use full color rods to lay the color..thats how i do it...pulling stringers and laying them a hell of a lot of times to get one solid line of color will be to much work... just use the color rod and strip it.. get like a good 1-1.5 of the color rod red hot before you lay it.. ill make a vid today of layin my lines, waggin them up and condencing them to a ball...so you can see it rather then read it..lol...keep it up and keep the glass warm!

peace hippi...

ill post the vid or send it to u via pm so you can see it..

**steak351** · 05-22-2010, 05:24 PM

hi guys i got it, i forgot spinning the thing between laying lines i have one in the kiln right now it 2 in the morning as i write this, so no pics sorry haha

i layed the color thick on and then i encased with a clear rod but it was smaller then 10mm but ir worked very good

i am so happy i got it, at first i think now i was too fast striping it down, no connection ..
..crack

it was on a 12 mm tube standard wall i think, idk

regards and thank you guys

frank

**steak351** · 05-25-2010, 10:43 PM

hi here are some pics from the weekend, i think my line work and encasing did a step forward slo i did my first wig wag sections

but i have a question when you do multiple sections do you leave the blowtube attached or do you open the section up and attach a punty on the other side?

when i want to do prepwork can i make sections and anneal them with the punty blowtube sticking out of the kiln?

how do you do it?

here are the pictures, tell me what you think

a big thanks to the guys who helped me out with the tube encasing and stuff, i wouldnt be able to do such stuff without you THANK YOU

kind regards frank

**faded** · 05-26-2010, 12:08 AM

that last slide is really cool. i like it a lot.

i keep all my balls on blow tubes until i'm ready to use them. i stick them in the punty door and garage them for an hour or so while i work. then i pull them out and bench cool them standing up in a wood block. when it comes time to connect them i attach a punty and pull off the blow tube first.

**steak351** · 05-26-2010, 02:29 AM

ahh ok , i need to condense them down cause i have only a sc3 kiln and the punty door is fuckin small, oh i thought of pulling the blowtube off and the attaching the puny and stciking it in the kiln

and theres no need to run the whole annealing cycle for the sections?

when they bench cooled dont they crack when you reintroduce them into the flame?

i thought about sticking them in the kiln turning it on letting it heat up to garage temps and the taking them out when i want to join them together...

and thenk you that you like the last slide, i think i improved my linework and i learned a lot trying out wiggys and spirals and stuff

when i wanna make a bow tie design.....
i spiral up an encased tube and switch axis and then split it in half...?

kind regards frank

**hashmasta-kut** · 05-26-2010, 05:10 AM

i'm not sure why he bench cools them. if something is cooled and you want to go directly to flame, you need to do so very very gradually. if its very thick, its still risky. i have my reballs garaged and also make them and garage them, and use them hot. for bowties, yes thats right. they can be done on wigwags too, some other designs.

**steak351** · 05-26-2010, 05:27 AM

i looked at the bowtie design and thought man that was a spiral wasnt it?

i need to try it out, spiral something up and the switch axis 90 degrees

i think i am like in a video game where i got one level up, haha

**steak351** · 05-26-2010, 11:04 PM

i purchased big oxi tanks yesterday and one big 33l propane tank, i drilled a hole trough the wall to put my hoses trough, and i build a shed for the gastanks, i also got y connectors and now i can build a second workstation in my studio for my buddy with my old torch

i bought 45 kilo /90 pounds of clear glass yesterday all tubes 8mm, 22mm and 36mm, i got it very cheap the tubes are 1500mm long

i am kinda exited to get the package