Blow in. Tagged the side just a hair causing the window. I was able to even it out again before shaping, but still doesn't look right. I'm trapping s bunch of air when condensing this thing is going to crack. I guess I just need more practice
Blow in. Tagged the side just a hair causing the window. I was able to even it out again before shaping, but still doesn't look right. I'm trapping s bunch of air when condensing this thing is going to crack. I guess I just need more practice
Nah, nah. See, I meant to do that.
Nah, nah. See, I meant to do that.
Nice man, I love the fume and the shaping!!!
Thanks. Mouthpieces are still crooked 😡😡😡 but best shaping I've done yet. Let's hope I can keep it up! I want to try a bubbler!!!! Stand up bubs!! Stand up bubs!!! Woo!!!!
Nah, nah. See, I meant to do that.
Also, I coilpotted that cobalt tube/blank. Proud of this one.
Nah, nah. See, I meant to do that.
I bought some Ching Wan Hung from amazon and it works very well to stop a blister from forming.
I had a piece of hot glass shatter and a piece landed on my pant leg, I had to grab it to take it off,(not thinking), and burned my fingertip well.
Applied the Ching Wan Hung and left it on there for about 5 mins and wiped off and it felt better and a blister never formed.
I beg to differ, at least in my personal experience. Tap water does not prevent blisters.
Bob dawg gave me a reburn tip, but I'm not a fucking Viking like he is haha!
Luckily I'm not being a dumb ass and burning myself much anymore. Shit happens tho!
Milon Townsend had some good advice in advanced flame working.
Problem: burning yourself/cutting yourself
Solution: pay attention
Nah, nah. See, I meant to do that.
my 6 years of many burns says otherwise. cold water has reduced many terrible burns to 0 blistering for me. I have had a large bucket of cold water in my shop since day one. if you get your hand in it immediately, alsmot all the burning is diminished. you can reduce a burn by about 75% by being quick into the bucket, and virtually all blisters are stopped from forming. I've even use it on 3rd degree torch burns when you arent supposed to, no problems.
Different strokes for different folks. It just never worked for me. Maybe the water here isn't good enoughI appreciate nothing more than burn advice, even if it doesn't work for me, you probably just helped a bunch of people ! Thanks everyone for all of your generous advice. I love this forum!
Nah, nah. See, I meant to do that.
I have been slacking on checking in here, so I had to go back through a bunch of pages. I have lots to say and will probably forget some.
As always, your progress inspires and impresses me. I am back in Bastrop and have plans to get my studio up and running again in the next couple of weeks. We should definitely hang out.
Pendants: what you said about the repair you did on the tiny thin loop is true about the big tall loop you are putting on yours. You want them as thick and tight to the pendant as possible. I am assuming you are pulling a colored rod out and looping it around, attaching and cleaning it up? Correct? That's the way I learned. You can do it this way, but it's better to attach towards the front and curl over and attach on the back, rather than the same start and end point…that way you don't get the added height. The taller the loop is, the more likely it is to be knocked off when it hits the ground/dresser/counter. I put a blob of color/clear on top of the pendant, cook it in completely, then use a tungsten pick to drill through it. Then I tool it to the right size/shape.
Retti Terminations: Are you doing these on a open tube? I have never tried one on a open tube, but I don't have issues with terminations. I start with a closed blank, tapered to an almost point on the end. I leave it slightly rounded so I have more surface area and less buildup of the colored lines. After I lay the first row of lines and before I twist, I clean up excess glass on the end…then again after the twist. Same thing when I lay the second set of lines. By the time I have everything twisted up for the second time, I have very little excess glass to remove from the end. And I think I showed you the termination trick. Tiny flame and tiny spot of heat at the very tip, pull out a hair fine stringer, remove, repeat until termination is pulled so thin is that one tiny spot that the lines basically disappear…sometimes you have to do it a bunch…very tiny spot…think head of a pin.
Implosions: clean your marver (and all graphite tools) at least once a week. Really, do the marver daily if you are doing implosions. Some of the bubbles you get in the center lay be from grime on the marver. Cigarette ash is especially destructive. The tip of the blob you mash before you lay down any color is likely the hottest and the most likely to stick to dust on the marver. It will pick up micro pieces of crap that off gas and create those bubbles in the center. Could be that you are going in too hot, which can be fixed easily. Rather than adjust the flame to try not to boil the tiny stringer dots, adjust the placement of the flame. Direct the flame just below where you want to place the dots, and use the area of the flame that is grazing over the surface rather than coming directly from the torch.
The sleeving looks great. On your next round, try fuming the cobalt with silver and the inside of the clear sleeve with gold. It makes shiny pink and orange bubbles. You can do the reverse for bubbles that look like clouds…cool for a planetary effect.
Aymie
Thanks Aymie!! I'd love to come out. This is all fantastic advice. I'm still trying to figure out what to do about the pendy bails. I've always grabbed a rod, make a candy cane and then back onto the rod, shape with graphite. I have been looking at your pendant you gave me for Christmas and I like the bail (I remember the tungsten trick you showed me) but the metal deposits stay on the inside of the bail. I'd like to try something more decorative like a little piece of 9.5 tubing or something on the next few.
Retti terminations I use a closed tube. I think some of it comes from an uneven starting point, maybe my guideline is not exactly straight? Also, I'm getting too much glass hot. You're right. Tiny pinpoint at the end- will post results when I get my reg fixed and back on the torch.
Marver pad is spotless but still good advice. (I'm also careful to give it a quick blow or wipe between compressions) and the flame placement is very important. Hit the side of the Maria and use the deflected flame on your stringer. Gives much more control and don't have to worry about boiling so much.
Love it! Thanks again lets get together soon and make some glass magic!
Nah, nah. See, I meant to do that.
Clean the graphite with rubbing alcohol.
Aymie
I have a pretty good stash for sure.
Aymie
Looking great brother. Super excited for you. You've progressed a ton in the last 11 months or so.
Owner/CEO at Tuff Puffs LLC
Looking good, Bones!![]()
~Misha
Thank you everyone. Making me smile!
Today I decided to brave the heat. I realize now that I cannot function in said heat. The work suffers when you cannot concentrate.
Started with a Rod of purple rain
(Friend wanted a one hitter purple and green)
Coilpotted into a blank and drew it down..
(Good, could be better)
Made a pipe, fucked it up 3/4 the way through and melted it down and put it back into a bubble.
Good fundamental practice, still too hot to function.
Craig showed me that I'm allowed to turn up the pressure on my regs and this Carlisle is a whole new torch. I feel like I'm learning all over again, but the right way. And I am at peace. Ahhhh. 120° zen.
Nah, nah. See, I meant to do that.
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