Melting Pot Wiki - User contributions [en]

Flashback arrestor

2011-08-02T07:43:26Z

Somberbear:

A flashback arrestor or flame arrestor is a device most commonly used in oxy-fuel welding and cutting to stop the flame from burning back up into the equipment and causing damage or explosions. The two main types are dry and wet. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages. Most oxy-fuel flashback arrestors are the dry type.

Pre-mix torch

2008-03-16T21:25:14Z

Somberbear:

Pre mix torch: A torch in which the oxidizing and fuel gases are mixed in a chamber prior to exiting the face of the torch and undergoing combustion. These types of torches are commonly used in welding. Pre-mix torches must have flashback arrestors, and or check valves to prevent the ignited gases from traveling back to the tanks.

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== Examples ==

National/premier industres - 3a/3b hand torchs, rider torch , and prmix 8m adaptor.

Smith - little torch, cutting torchs

Hoke - hand torch

Carlise- center fire of most 2 stage torchs, hand torchs

Nortel - unitorch , various hand torchs , and rider option on over under fire torchs.

Many ribbon and ring burners are also pre-mixes.

Triple mix

2007-01-16T13:28:54Z

Somberbear:

== Overview ==
A system patented by GTT. The use of a center injector into a surface mix torch.

== Principle ==
The ports are build so that there is an outer layer of oxygen. Then the fuel(2) to be burned is injected out of a half moon port, the moon is made by the center injector being fed threw the fuel tube. The center injector being layer(3).

thus triple or tri-mix.

This allows the creation and ability to run a verity of flames and atmospheres.

At the writing of this it is the only oxy/fuel/oxy mixing known. In production.

Phantom

2007-01-14T15:30:28Z

Somberbear:

== Overview ==

The glass torch technology(GTT)Phantom is a 2 stage triple mix surface mix torch. Mainly for the use in glass blowing.

== discription ==

The phantom is a torch consisting of the lynx center fire system and an outer ring of port. The manifold splits the gases coming into the torch into inner chambers and then threw tubes to the surface. where the gases mix. This creates a very quiet and soft flame. The mixing of gases on the surface makes it surface mix as unlike internal mix (premix). The chambers are built in such a way as to allow control of the inner fire and outer fire independantly. there are 3 knobs on the manifold for each stage. Red is fuel(propane),Green is main/outer oxygen, Blue is the center oxygen injector control valve.

== Cooling ==

The torch is designed so that it does not need cooling fins or water cooling. This is done by the Green oxygen being open running this cools the torch. The blue valve when cracked will cool the injector and move the flame from the tip this will prevent most if not all carbon build up.

== Triple mix ==

A patented system from GTT that has a center injector of oxygen. this mixed with how the ports built on the Outer oxygen port. create a very hot flame. with alot of control and variation in flame character and atmosphere.

== Tips ==

Always keep your inner oxygen cracked (blue knob)

Routine mantiance should be done monthly using a nichrome wire and a small wire brush. it should be done more often if you fume.

== Links ==

[http://www.glasstorchtech.com/index1.html GTT Web Page]

Fuming

2007-01-14T13:27:19Z

Somberbear: /* Technique */

== Summary ==

'''Fuming''' is a lamp working (glass blowing) technique, in which solid silver or gold is turned into a vapor by placing in the flame of your torch. The silver/gold vapor then condenses onto the glass held further out in the flame and appears as a patina ranging in colours from blue, pink, white (from silver) to orange,green or red (from gold). The range of colours and opacity can be varied depending on how much fume (vaporized metal) is deposited onto the glass and how the then fumed glass is worked in the flame afterwards.

== Technique ==

Precut small pieces (3mm) of silver/gold. Place a single piece of silver/gold onto a graphite pad.

Heat up the end of a short length (3 to 4 inches) of 4 to 6 mm borosilicate rod till it is white hot and forms a small gather. some use a quartz rod, as it will not melt under high temp and prolong work time fuming

Press the hot gather onto the piece of silver/gold, smooshing the silver/gold between the gather and the graphite pad, thus pushing the silver/gold into the gather and allow to cool for a few seconds.

The silver/gold should have stuck to the glass, if not try again.

Make sure the glass that is receiving the fume has been pre-warmed so that the fume will stick to it. Do this by giving the glass a quick bath in a bushy propane flame.

Adjust your torch to create a very small reducing flame.

Hold the glass rod with the silver/gold about 1 to 2 mm past the candle tip.

hold the glass you want to fume out in the flame, approximately 6 inches behind the rod with the silver/gold

Once placed near the candle, the silver/gold will melt and start to give off the fume, sometimes this fume is visable as a smoke, other times you can not see it, but watch the glass that it is being deposited onto to notice if it is changing color. If it is not, try changing the characteristics of your flame.

When the glass has obtained the desired patina, set aside the short rod with the silver/gold. You can now adjust back to a normal flame and work your glass.

== Variations on technique ==

The fume (especially silver fume) can be burned off with a neutral to oxidizing flame. Thus if you dont want to lose your fume, it is suggested that you encase the fume with additional glass (usually clear). However the patina of the fume can be changed by blasting the glass with alternating reducing and oxidising flame.

One way to change the patina is to blast the fumed glass with a bushy reducing flame, you can also hit it with alternating blasts of reducing and oxidizing to change the patina. If a layer of carbon builds up when using the bushy reducing flame, it can be safely burned off with a quick blast of an oxidizing flame, revealing the new patina underneath.

A fume can be placed either on the outside or inside surface of a tube. By fuming on the inside of a tube, the fume is more protected from being burned off as the piece is worked more in the flame.

Start with light fuming and see what effects you get. Heavier fuming of silver can create a whiteish color.

Varying the amountsof silver/gold and layering silver and gold fuming will give lots of different and interesting effects.

== Sources of gold & silver ==

Ideally the gold or silver should be as pure as possible with a grade of .999.

You can purchase .999 grade silver and gold from gold and silver smiths and dealers. It is usually sold in wire form or in little beads called casting grains.

Alternate sources that may or may not be .999 pure are:
silver or gold jewelry
silver or gold coins

== Safety ==

Always use good ventilation. and be careful to minimize your exposure to the fumes. The fumes are very poisonous.

Be careful not to spill the molten silver onto your torch face as it will clog and possibly ruin the ports.

Also wear proper eye filters the light produced while fuming can be bright. leading to blindness

== Effects and Patterns ==

Spiral and wig wag effects can be done with just clear tube and fume in the following way. - For this example a 25mm tube is used.

Attach a 25mm tube to a 12mm blow tube and close one end of the 25mm tube.

Fume the 25mm tube with gold or silver so that it is completly covered.

Using clear 5 to 6mm rods, draw stripes of clear glass lengthwise down the tube.

Melt the stripes into the tube, puffing to keep the tube shape, doing this will burn off the fume from where it was not protected by the clear glass stripes.

You now have a striped tube that you can then use other with other techniques to make things like wigwags and spirals.

----

'''NOTE TO OTHERS''' - Please post more techniques here on how to achieve various effects, preferably with pictures

--[[User:Meerkat|Meerkat]] 23:02, 13 January 2007 (EST)

Fuming

2007-01-14T13:25:54Z

Somberbear: /* Technique */

== Summary ==

'''Fuming''' is a lamp working (glass blowing) technique, in which solid silver or gold is turned into a vapor by placing in the flame of your torch. The silver/gold vapor then condenses onto the glass held further out in the flame and appears as a patina ranging in colours from blue, pink, white (from silver) to orange,green or red (from gold). The range of colours and opacity can be varied depending on how much fume (vaporized metal) is deposited onto the glass and how the then fumed glass is worked in the flame afterwards.

== Technique ==

Precut small pieces (3mm) of silver/gold. Place a single piece of silver/gold onto a graphite pad.

Heat up the end of a short length (3 to 4 inches) of 4 to 6 mm Pyrex rod till it is white hot and forms a small gather. some use a quartz rod, as it will not melt under high temp and prolong work time fuming

Press the hot gather onto the piece of silver/gold, smooshing the silver/gold between the gather and the graphite pad, thus pushing the silver/gold into the gather and allow to cool for a few seconds.

The silver/gold should have stuck to the glass, if not try again.

Make sure the glass that is receiving the fume has been pre-warmed so that the fume will stick to it. Do this by giving the glass a quick bath in a bushy propane flame.

Adjust your torch to create a very small reducing flame.

Hold the glass rod with the silver/gold about 1 to 2 mm past the candle tip.

hold the glass you want to fume out in the flame, approximately 6 inches behind the rod with the silver/gold

Once placed near the candle, the silver/gold will melt and start to give off the fume, sometimes this fume is visable as a smoke, other times you can not see it, but watch the glass that it is being deposited onto to notice if it is changing color. If it is not, try changing the characteristics of your flame.

When the glass has obtained the desired patina, set aside the short rod with the silver/gold. You can now adjust back to a normal flame and work your glass.

== Variations on technique ==

The fume (especially silver fume) can be burned off with a neutral to oxidizing flame. Thus if you dont want to lose your fume, it is suggested that you encase the fume with additional glass (usually clear). However the patina of the fume can be changed by blasting the glass with alternating reducing and oxidising flame.

One way to change the patina is to blast the fumed glass with a bushy reducing flame, you can also hit it with alternating blasts of reducing and oxidizing to change the patina. If a layer of carbon builds up when using the bushy reducing flame, it can be safely burned off with a quick blast of an oxidizing flame, revealing the new patina underneath.

A fume can be placed either on the outside or inside surface of a tube. By fuming on the inside of a tube, the fume is more protected from being burned off as the piece is worked more in the flame.

Start with light fuming and see what effects you get. Heavier fuming of silver can create a whiteish color.

Varying the amountsof silver/gold and layering silver and gold fuming will give lots of different and interesting effects.

== Sources of gold & silver ==

Ideally the gold or silver should be as pure as possible with a grade of .999.

You can purchase .999 grade silver and gold from gold and silver smiths and dealers. It is usually sold in wire form or in little beads called casting grains.

Alternate sources that may or may not be .999 pure are:
silver or gold jewelry
silver or gold coins

== Safety ==

Always use good ventilation. and be careful to minimize your exposure to the fumes. The fumes are very poisonous.

Be careful not to spill the molten silver onto your torch face as it will clog and possibly ruin the ports.

Also wear proper eye filters the light produced while fuming can be bright. leading to blindness

== Effects and Patterns ==

Spiral and wig wag effects can be done with just clear tube and fume in the following way. - For this example a 25mm tube is used.

Attach a 25mm tube to a 12mm blow tube and close one end of the 25mm tube.

Fume the 25mm tube with gold or silver so that it is completly covered.

Using clear 5 to 6mm rods, draw stripes of clear glass lengthwise down the tube.

Melt the stripes into the tube, puffing to keep the tube shape, doing this will burn off the fume from where it was not protected by the clear glass stripes.

You now have a striped tube that you can then use other with other techniques to make things like wigwags and spirals.

----

'''NOTE TO OTHERS''' - Please post more techniques here on how to achieve various effects, preferably with pictures

--[[User:Meerkat|Meerkat]] 23:02, 13 January 2007 (EST)

Fuming

2007-01-14T13:21:57Z

Somberbear: /* Safety */

== Summary ==

'''Fuming''' is a lamp working (glass blowing) technique, in which solid silver or gold is turned into a vapor by placing in the flame of your torch. The silver/gold vapor then condenses onto the glass held further out in the flame and appears as a patina ranging in colours from blue, pink, white (from silver) to orange,green or red (from gold). The range of colours and opacity can be varied depending on how much fume (vaporized metal) is deposited onto the glass and how the then fumed glass is worked in the flame afterwards.

== Technique ==

Precut small pieces (3mm) of silver/gold.

Place a single piece of silver/gold onto a graphite pad.

Heat up the end of a short length (3 to 4 inches) of 4 to 6 mm rod till it is white hot and forms a small gather.

Press the hot gather onto the piece of silver/gold, smooshing the silver/gold between the gather and the graphite pad, thus pushing the silver/gold into the gather and allow to cool for a few seconds.

The silver/gold should have stuck to the glass, if not try again.

Make sure the glass that is receiving the fume has been pre-warmed so that the fume will stick to it. Do this by giving the glass a quick bath in a bushy propane flame.

Adjust your torch to create a very small reducing flame.

Hold the glass rod with the silver/gold about 1 to 2 mm past the candle tip.

hold the glass you want to fume out in the flame, approximately 6 inches behind the rod with the silver/gold

Once placed near the candle, the silver/gold will melt and start to give off the fume, sometimes this fume is visable as a smoke, other times you can not see it, but watch the glass that it is being deposited onto to notice if it is changing color. If it is not, try changing the characteristics of your flame.

When the glass has obtained the desired patina, set aside the short rod with the silver/gold. You can now adjust back to a normal flame and work your glass.

== Variations on technique ==

The fume (especially silver fume) can be burned off with a neutral to oxidizing flame. Thus if you dont want to lose your fume, it is suggested that you encase the fume with additional glass (usually clear). However the patina of the fume can be changed by blasting the glass with alternating reducing and oxidising flame.

One way to change the patina is to blast the fumed glass with a bushy reducing flame, you can also hit it with alternating blasts of reducing and oxidizing to change the patina. If a layer of carbon builds up when using the bushy reducing flame, it can be safely burned off with a quick blast of an oxidizing flame, revealing the new patina underneath.

A fume can be placed either on the outside or inside surface of a tube. By fuming on the inside of a tube, the fume is more protected from being burned off as the piece is worked more in the flame.

Start with light fuming and see what effects you get. Heavier fuming of silver can create a whiteish color.

Varying the amountsof silver/gold and layering silver and gold fuming will give lots of different and interesting effects.

== Sources of gold & silver ==

Ideally the gold or silver should be as pure as possible with a grade of .999.

You can purchase .999 grade silver and gold from gold and silver smiths and dealers. It is usually sold in wire form or in little beads called casting grains.

Alternate sources that may or may not be .999 pure are:
silver or gold jewelry
silver or gold coins

== Safety ==

Always use good ventilation. and be careful to minimize your exposure to the fumes. The fumes are very poisonous.

Be careful not to spill the molten silver onto your torch face as it will clog and possibly ruin the ports.

Also wear proper eye filters the light produced while fuming can be bright. leading to blindness

== Effects and Patterns ==

Spiral and wig wag effects can be done with just clear tube and fume in the following way. - For this example a 25mm tube is used.

Attach a 25mm tube to a 12mm blow tube and close one end of the 25mm tube.

Fume the 25mm tube with gold or silver so that it is completly covered.

Using clear 5 to 6mm rods, draw stripes of clear glass lengthwise down the tube.

Melt the stripes into the tube, puffing to keep the tube shape, doing this will burn off the fume from where it was not protected by the clear glass stripes.

You now have a striped tube that you can then use other with other techniques to make things like wigwags and spirals.

----

'''NOTE TO OTHERS''' - Please post more techniques here on how to achieve various effects, preferably with pictures

--[[User:Meerkat|Meerkat]] 23:02, 13 January 2007 (EST)