Schott Boro Artistic - If you hate it, please tell me why.

**Groundjoints.com** · 06-29-2009, 02:12 PM

Anything that is rejected is crushed and then reused as flux/cullet for new batch.

As far as QC is concerned, every single case of Schott tubing and rod has a lot number stamped on the label. I use this if someone has an issue and I need to check the stock on this end. The lot numbers are stamped in Germany and Schott does track them like Glass Alchemy.

**Kool** · 06-29-2009, 04:50 PM

Yeah, after I typed that I thought it would be odd if it weren't tracked. When I went back out to the shop I noticed the code on all of my cases.

**Dom** · 06-29-2009, 05:54 PM

Ill point out the major obvious flaws:

1. Out of round/wavy tubing/rods with clear lines running through the entire length.

2. Fuming is way finicky, you have to use a perfect reducing flame and fume just the exact perfect amount of silver to get a consistent result. Im not gonna lie when you actually do get it perfect, it can be like the sickest shit ever.

A side note to number two is that I got some 50x5 which I think is from the "new" batch and the fuming is getting better but still not quite there yet.

3. Most of the rods are really easy to "boil" not sure why this happens as its almost a non issue with the tubing.

All that being said I still love how the glass works overall, that is the major positive with Schott BA.

**Icarus** · 06-30-2009, 05:39 AM

Originally Posted by UST Glass

Anything that is rejected is crushed and then reused as flux/cullet for new batch.

As far as QC is concerned, every single case of Schott tubing and rod has a lot number stamped on the label. I use this if someone has an issue and I need to check the stock on this end. The lot numbers are stamped in Germany and Schott does track them like Glass Alchemy.

Okay, that makes sense. Sorry for being reactionary.

**Big Jay** · 06-30-2009, 01:48 PM

Some of the smaller diameter rods like to snap way too easy. 5mm thru 10mm. I had one box of 5mm in particular that was like trying to work with 2mm.
As far as the line dissapearing when cold thats simply not true.. On alot of my products the line just has no bearing but every now and then I have something that just clear tubing and the line is a killer.
As far as the fume its just technique.. As long as you cook in the fume on the BA and burn off any excess it works just fine.. It is very easy to over fume when working on the inside though.
I've had maybe 1 tube out of 100 that is super shocky. The first time it happened I got 2 in one box. Thought you slipped me a couple pieces of chinex in there at first. But the other 99% are butter.
All in all Adam you've always taking good care of me and you know our studio rocks the shit out of BA.

**VOORHEES** · 06-30-2009, 02:26 PM

I want to get a purple-red with my honeycombs...no matter what I try to do with the BA, I can't get it.

Simax gives ma a consistent deep purple hue once I strike it...it takes a little more work, but that's the main reason I choose not to use BA for striking colors.

If anyone has gotten a deep purple from a honeycomb with BA...please post pics.

**Dom** · 06-30-2009, 04:42 PM

Gold and silver or just silver?

**Adapt** · 06-30-2009, 06:52 PM

I buy a lot of SBA and the fuming is the only problem I've had. Fume on the inside whites out way to easy. Funny thing is that the UST Glass from China gives me way better fume honeycombs than the SBA.

**$$$$$$$** · 06-30-2009, 06:56 PM

As for what voorhees is talking about, I just like to raw dog the glass into the flame without preheating it. And I was so used to using simax that when I got the sba, I exploded quite a few tubes. I bought about 8 cases of sba around a year ago

**Groundjoints.com** · 06-30-2009, 07:48 PM

Wait. Raw Dog Greasy Style?

I Understand now.

**nodice** · 06-30-2009, 08:12 PM

Originally Posted by dBDom

Gold and silver or just silver?

You weren't askin me but, gold works fine with sba for me, but silver definately has different results then other clears which can be good and bad. Most of the time bad, and I usually use a lot of silver or colors that have silver in them. It's a stiff clear, which is nice in ways when you have a torch like a gtt and are doing hallow work, but.......... I'd rather use chinese glass most of the time, and it's not cause of the price, and I don't use chinese glass anymore. I have a few cases of schott laying around of anyone wants them for a good price

**Master Yoda** · 07-01-2009, 05:07 AM

fuming schott is the shit! It is the only glass I have been able to get consistent purps out of

**loydb** · 07-01-2009, 05:25 AM

The lines definitely don't go away when cold. It sucks, at the rate I use glass, the dozen cases I have will last until 2020 or so.

**MUPH** · 07-01-2009, 05:41 AM

I've never used SBA but wouldn't the (over) fume be good for prodo work?

**The Lorax** · 07-01-2009, 05:52 AM

i made a clear piece out of simax and schott BA that wasn't annealed.

the simax cracked, the schott didn't.

found that to be kinda interesting, although i'm a fume junkie and i can't go w/o my simax.

**VOORHEES** · 07-01-2009, 08:58 AM

Originally Posted by TheHead

fuming schott is the shit! It is the only glass I have been able to get consistent purps out of

Let's see pics.

**broken glass** · 07-01-2009, 09:35 AM

I use striking colors for the h colmbs, and have been able to get good red/ purples out of it, but i like the blues a bit better, I guess I will have to get the camera out to show. All with BA and Tripple passion or something like that. Pre heat.....?...I don't do that and don't have problems with exploding tubes.....Not like that chinese tube that i tried a long time ago. I like BA and that is why I keep ordering it.

**Master Yoda** · 07-01-2009, 10:58 AM

don't have to many but check the two i/o liners at the top
http://www.glasspipes.org/Img209321_...1_case.jpg.asp
light silver+moderate gold = dope

**nodice** · 07-01-2009, 01:09 PM

<cough>

**Big Jay** · 07-01-2009, 01:14 PM

Originally Posted by MUPH

I've never used SBA but wouldn't the (over) fume be good for prodo work?

no the over fume is a milky white. Most stores won't buy it. It doesn't look horrible but its not going to give you the color change. When using silver colors over BA you have to be really careful if you fume the glass first. I usually melt in silver colors with a very oxydising hissy flame to make sure any extra fume burns off. Just have to get right in the balance right before the flame is so intense that it instantly removes all fume. Sounds complicated but really its just like anything else if your used to it , its not bad. Again on the inside the story changes quickly.