Lever2stackS's Progression Thread

**gambitglass** · 01-17-2013, 07:31 PM

All looking nice Levi!

**Loki Glass** · 01-18-2013, 10:01 AM

Incredible stuff man, the reptilian technique pieces are looking sick!

**Lever2stackS** · 01-18-2013, 01:31 PM

This reptilian tech is bad ass here's a section I was in the middle of turning into a spoon when I ran out of oxy, and a R-ball that will go with it.

Thanks for looking.
Levi

**Lever2stackS** · 01-22-2013, 07:23 AM

Alright here's the reptilian section and r-ball from above that I finished last night came out pretty sweet. The one termination could be cleaner on my r-ball but besides that I'm really happy with the way it came out.

Thanks for looking,
Levi

**LooseSeal Baller** · 01-22-2013, 07:32 AM

looks good. you can clean those terminations up really easy. kinda hard to explain but i basically pluck the center till its like an egg shape and then use a sofietta puffing tool to round out the remaining tip. If someone else can explain it better please jump in. nice work tho!

**maxtsunami** · 01-22-2013, 07:34 AM

Lookin sweet dude. What's this reptilian tech you keep talkin bout though? Your spoon shapes are really nice, I've been wanting to get that flattened head for a while but I just can't seem to figure it out.

**LooseSeal Baller** · 01-22-2013, 07:43 AM

the reptilian tech i believe refers to the majority of the piece that has the cross etched pattern.

he explained this in the thread, draw on 25 heavywall tube and then wrap it with 8 mm rod.

**Lever2stackS** · 01-22-2013, 07:46 AM

Yup barry hit it

**Lever2stackS** · 01-22-2013, 07:51 AM

It's a pretty simple tech rod encase color on 25mm but don't melt it in all the way then coil clear around it to make the box'd in pattern melt it in. There's a youtube vid on it and it was in flow magazine.

**Loki Glass** · 01-22-2013, 10:34 AM

Awesome! I was looking around a bit for it and although it's mentioned quite a bit I couldn't seem to find any techs on it, at least where's I've searched. But now that you describe it, it makes so much sense, lol. Beautiful work. The reversals are looking top notch! Every time I turn around you're doing something new that's just looking amazing.

**hellawacked** · 01-25-2013, 02:20 PM

For anyone looking for the video http://youtu.be/j07YklX9SFs
Those w/r implosion pendants and the retti one are sick. I went from thinking wrap and rake was dumb to well, rethinking it. Good shit man

**Lever2stackS** · 01-26-2013, 05:40 AM

Originally Posted by Jonny B

Awesome! I was looking around a bit for it and although it's mentioned quite a bit I couldn't seem to find any techs on it, at least where's I've searched. But now that you describe it, it makes so much sense, lol. Beautiful work. The reversals are looking top notch! Every time I turn around you're doing something new that's just looking amazing.

Thanks jonny means a lot bro I'm posting the vid that I learned from give you a better idea of what's going on

Originally Posted by hellawacked

For anyone looking for the video http://youtu.be/j07YklX9SFs
Those w/r implosion pendants and the retti one are sick. I went from thinking wrap and rake was dumb to well, rethinking it. Good shit man

howdy hellawacked. Yeah man W/R's can be cool you just need to use cool colors and try to mix it up a little with the way you rake, So it's just not the same old w/r's that everybody else is doing. Nice vid, here's the one I used.

**LowTideGlass** · 01-26-2013, 07:27 AM

Originally Posted by hellawacked

For anyone looking for the video http://youtu.be/j07YklX9SFs
Those w/r implosion pendants and the retti one are sick. I went from thinking wrap and rake was dumb to well, rethinking it. Good shit man

I really likes the music in this vid. Reminded me of Snatch. Pikey bastards.

**James Lewis** · 01-26-2013, 09:04 AM

Im diggin the color pattern on that wigwag. Is it azual, aqua azual, and acid yellow?

**Matt P** · 01-26-2013, 09:36 AM

Damn Levi! I disappear from the forum for a minute and you are killing it!! Keep up the good work man, you've inspired me to try to get that reptilian tech down, its been hit and miss so far. Seriously though buddy, you're doing awesome. I can't wait to see where all this take you and what your work looks like a year from now!!

**Lever2stackS** · 01-27-2013, 09:29 AM

Well speaking of retti's I haven't done one in forever so I gave on a whirl on hollow last night came out better than I expected. I made a little concave dish out of it here's a pic

Originally Posted by The Rookie

Damn Levi! I disappear from the forum for a minute and you are killing it!! Keep up the good work man, you've inspired me to try to get that reptilian tech down, its been hit and miss so far. Seriously though buddy, you're doing awesome. I can't wait to see where all this take you and what your work looks like a year from now!!

Thanks Matt All the hard work and dedication is starting to pay off. It's the best feeling when you start making the glass do the things you want. Dude give the reptilian another go it's pretty easy and it gives off such a cool effect. Same to you buddy the last updates I seen from you were effin' outstanding I'm sure your really kicking out some sickness now. I'll be sending you a PM out sometime this week peace.

Levi

**ijag2** · 01-27-2013, 09:41 AM

I like your bubs. But the mouth pieces/arms look pretty heavy. maybe try pulling out your tubing thinner diameter? I make mini bubs and use just 12mm for the arm, rather than stretching out something bigger.
this is how one looks
http://oi47.tinypic.com/ae1xyq.jpg

I find it a lot easier to get it to stand when its not super top-heavy

**OOTO** · 01-27-2013, 10:22 AM

Originally Posted by L3V3R2ooo

It's only the mystery adventurine that checks, All the other frit spoons I make are just fine but the MA checks on me it's deff melted in all the way. I'm working on a lynx so I can only pull one pipe at a time pulling tubing is just to much for the little guy.

I have used a couple pounds of mystery frit with a bobcat, and I had a heck of a time with checking when I firt started using it a couple months ago.
A couple of things:

The thicker you use the mystery the less you wanna work the glass. You can flash the hell out of it in a heavily reducing flame after you work it and have your shape done to bring out the blues and purple hues and it wont check.

Make sure you ALWAYS ramp cycle down the kiln when you cool the glass. It has to do with how long it takes for the metalics in the mystery to layer into the matrix as it hardens.

On the Lynx, there is no reason you cant do a tube pull of mystery frit in something like 32mm heavy wall. I do those in 4 to 5 inch sections all the time, super fast way to color out a log for 4 chunky frit spoons..

Hope that helps, the mystery aventurine is a kick ass color once you figure out how to work with it.. I prefer mine in size "fine" for production work. Try using it with a darker backing frit of a size larger and use it to give dimension and sparkle to fuming blues and reds etc... on inside frit work...

**Lever2stackS** · 01-28-2013, 06:16 AM

Originally Posted by ijag2

I like your bubs. But the mouth pieces/arms look pretty heavy. maybe try pulling out your tubing thinner diameter? I make mini bubs and use just 12mm for the arm, rather than stretching out something bigger.
this is how one looks
http://oi47.tinypic.com/ae1xyq.jpg

I find it a lot easier to get it to stand when its not super top-heavy

Thanks bro Yeah those were some of my earlier bubs here's a oil rig I made about a week ago.

and a dome

Originally Posted by OOTO

On the Lynx, there is no reason you cant do a tube pull of mystery frit in something like 32mm heavy wall. I do those in 4 to 5 inch sections all the time, super fast way to color out a log for 4 chunky frit spoons..

How's it going OOTO glad you stopped by and thanks for the tips. So you are using a 4-5 inch section of 32 heavy adding frit to the inside and melting in and then pulling it out and pulling 4 pipes out of it? I use about a 3-3.5 inch blank of 32 heavy for 1 frit spoon I like them thick and heady. I've been pulling color tubing out with the lynx mostly solid color not encased I wasn't saying it couldn't be done just takes awhile when it starts getting thick.

**OOTO** · 01-28-2013, 09:31 AM

Originally Posted by L3V3R2ooo

How's it going OOTO glad you stopped by and thanks for the tips. So you are using a 4-5 inch section of 32 heavy adding frit to the inside and melting in and then pulling it out and pulling 4 pipes out of it? I use about a 3-3.5 inch blank of 32 heavy for 1 frit spoon I like them thick and heady. I've been pulling color tubing out with the lynx mostly solid color not encased I wasn't saying it couldn't be done just takes awhile when it starts getting thick.

Sorry, missing puncuation in the last post.. What I meant was I do pulls on 32 with my bobcat, I use an average of 3" of 32mm for a chuncky 3-1/2 to 4" long spoon. It is a great way to color out a larger section and pull down to make 3 or 4 spoons, but yes you would want to add 3" of 32mm for every extra spoon you want out of that pull. Now if you have 3" of 32mm hvy wall and add 2mm of color all the way around that blank you have almost doubled the amount of glass you have, allowing you to puff n stretch that blank into at least a spoon and a thick hitter or two, I try to always add enough to pull two spoons from it min to make my time worth while in front of the fire.

I like tha clear rig you just posted, it is a great example of why clear is perfect for peope still learning. You can really see where the glass is uneven and where you stress areas when it is still warm etc.. The shape on the can looks pretty tight, I would try reducing the overall size of the stem and mouthpiece to be no more than 1/3 of the total length of the bub, it will help tons in keeping this aligned with the can and getting that fuse to the can tight.. If you look intoyour fuseyou can see from the picture that the inside lip is still slightly folded on the inside.. More heat and puffing will fix that, but you can only see that on clear. I still like to cheat on my stems for most fuses like that. I use a little wooden bridge across the blowtube and punty to hold both sections solid in place then you can heat the full fuse at once puff reduce repeat to get rid of that bleb on the inside.. If your fuse is not baby's ass smooth on the inside it will be weak and likely to fail.
Just my 2 cents.. Your shaping really has come a long way though..