Northstar

Below is a text version of the Northstar Colors working tips. A .doc version with pictures is located at http://www.mediafire.com/?rw8ww7zq0qkauje

NS-#	Name	Description and Characteristics
NS-01	Cobalt	Can take a lot of heat and can be worked in a wide range of flame settings. Stay out of reducing flames to prevent dulling or gray streaking to occur.
NS-03	Multi	When worked in an oxidizing flame this color produces smoky blues and sea greens. When reduced, NS-03 Multi yields earthy reds and gold tones.
NS-04	Dark Multi	A more intense version of NS-03 Multi that will yield similar effects, but much more pronounced. When worked in an oxidizing flame Dark Multi produces metallic blues and sea greens. When reduced, NS-04 Dark Multi yields earthy reds and browns.
NS-05	Orange	A bright transparent striking orange that is well suited for sculpture, bead work and moderately thin blown work. Work in an oxidizing flame and kiln strike.
NS-06	Dark Orange	A more saturated version of NS-05 Orange. It is well suited for thin blown work, cane work, or when a deep semi-opaque orange is desired. Work in an oxidizing flame. It can be kiln or flame struck.
NS-07L	Light Ruby	A vibrant transparent striking Ruby. Work in a neutral to slightly oxidizing flame. It is designed to be kiln struck.
NS-07	Ruby	A medium intensity-striking Ruby. Work in an oxidizing flame. It can be kiln or flame struck.
NS-08	Dark Ruby	The most saturated of the transparent striking Rubies. Work in an oxidizing flame. Designed primarily for flame striking, but can be kilned as well.
NS-09	Yellow	If worked in an oxidizing environment, NS-09 Yellow will yield a transparent golden yellow. If worked in a neutral to slightly reducing flame NS-09 Yellow will start to darken and opacify. Can be flame or kiln struck.
NS-11	Jade	Slightly heat sensitive. Work gently at first in a cool oxidizing flame.
NS-13	Amber Purple	Work in an oxidizing flame for purples. Reduction yields an opaque milky amber hue. Can be flame or kiln struck. Refer to the Amber Purple section for additional information.
NS-14	Irrid	A nice medium intensity striking color. Oxidize for metallic blues. Reduce for rich opal sea greens.
NS-15	Turquesa	A more saturated version of NS-14 Irrid. Oxidize for smoky blues. Reduce for vibrant greens.
NS-19	Light Cobalt	The lightest of the cobalt blues. It is not sensitive to flame atmosphere.
NS-20	Dark Cobalt	A rich cobalt blue well suited for blown applications. Work in an oxidizing flame to prevent dulling or graying.
NS-23	Pink	A light transparent that is not sensitive to flame atmosphere.
NS-24	Transparent Green	A nice transparent shade for sculpture and blown applications. Work in an oxidizing flame to prevent red streaking.
NS-25	Peach	A light transparent flesh tone well suited for sculpture. It is not sensitive to flame atmosphere.
NS-26	Double Amber/Purple	Work in a hot oxidizing flame. Refer to the amber/purple section for additional information.
NS-27	Green Exotic	A high intensity striking color. Slight reduction will yield bright green metallic hues. Prolonged exposure will yield earth tones. See Exotic section for additional information.
NS-28	Blue Exotic	A high intensity striking color. Slight reduction will yield bright Blue metallic hues. Prolonged exposure will yield earth tones. See Exotic section for additional information.
NS-29	Red Exotic	A high intensity striking color. Oxidize for bright metallic reds. Reduce for earth tones. Kilning will yield a darker red. See Exotic section for additional information.
NS-31	Lavender	A light transparent color. It is not sensitive to flame atmosphere.
NS-32	Violet	A light transparent color. It is not sensitive to flame atmosphere.
NS-33	Turbo Cobalt	The most saturated cobalt blue on the market. Work in a heavily oxidizing flame to prevent graying.
NS-34	Extra Light Yellow	A lighter version of NS-09 yellow. It produces a warm hazy glow when reduced or kilned.
NS-37	Rootbeer	A unique striking color. Oxidize for greens and gold tones. Reduce for reds and earth tones. It will darken in the kiln.
NS-38	Intense Blue/Green	A saturated striking color excellent for encasement. Oxidize for bright opal blues. Reduce for deep smoky greens.
NS-41	Butterscotch	A versatile striking color. Oxidize for creamy hues. Reduce for a slight silvery tone and deeper browns.
NS-42	Cinnamon	A nice medium intensity brown. It is not sensitive to flame atmosphere.
NS-43	Rust	An earthy red color. Work in a neutral to oxidizing flame. The color will strike to a deeper red in the kiln.
NS-44	Caramel	A lush bright silvery color. Oxidize for creamy tan hues. Reduce for a bright mirror-like sheen.
NS-45	Blue Moon	A saturated striking color. Oxidize for brilliant blues and greens. Reduce for sea greens and matte grays.
NS-47	Aurora	An exciting striking color. Oxidize for blues and magenta hues. Reduce for greens and earth tones. For additional information refer to the Exotic section.
NS-48	Light Blue Amber Purple	Oxidize for purples. Reduce for opaque sea greens. Refer to the Amber Purple section for working information.
NS-49	Dark Blue Amber Purple	A more intense version of NS-48 Light Blue Amber/Purple. Oxidize for purples. Reduce for opaque sea greens. Refer to the Amber Purple section for working information.
NS-52	Teal	A bright fully opaque blue/green. Not overly sensitive to atmosphere, but work in a neutral to slightly oxidizing flame.
NS-53	Forest Green	A bright fully opaque green. Work in an oxidizing flame and heat slowly. It can boil if heated aggressively. See the Heat Sensitive color section.
NS-54	Star White	A fully opaque white. It is not sensitive to flame atmosphere, but heat slowly and gently to prevent boiling. See the Heat Sensitive color section.
NS-55	Periwinkle	A bright fully opaque baby blue. Work in an oxidizing flame to prevent graying. Heat slowly and gently to prevent boiling. See the Heat Sensitive color section.
NS-57	Midnight	A dark opaque blue. Work in an oxidizing flame to prevent graying. Heat gently and slowly to prevent boiling. See the Heat Sensitive color section.
NS-58	Mint	A light opaque green. It is not sensitive to flame atmosphere but must be heated slowly to prevent boiling. See the Heat Sensitive color section.
NS-59	Cranberry	An opaque striking red. Work and strike just like NS-07 Ruby, but work gently to prevent boiling. See the Heat Sensitive color section.
NS-62	Bubblegum	A bright opaque pink. It is not sensitive to flame atmosphere but heat gently to prevent boiling. See the Heat Sensitive color section.
NS-63	Canary	A bright Intense Opaque yellow. Work slowly in a cool oxidizing flame to prevent boiling. See the Heat Sensitive color section.
NS-64	Lava	A bright Intense Opaque orange. Work slowly in a cool oxidizing flame to prevent boiling. See the Heat Sensitive color section.
NS-65	Cherry	A bright Intense Opaque red. Work slowly in a cool oxidizing flame to prevent boiling. See the Heat Sensitive color section.
NS-66	Sublime	A bright signal light green. It is not sensitive to atmosphere.
NS-69	Green Amber/Purple	The ultimate amber/purple. Work in a hot oxidizing flame. Refer to the amber/purple section for a working guide.
NS-70	Ice Blue	A cool water blue. Work in an oxidizing flame to keep the clarity. Reduction causes reddish streaking.
NS-72	Glacier Blue	A lush transparent blue/green. Work in an oxidizing flame to keep the clarity. Reduction causes reddish streaking.
NS-73	Millennium Moss	An opaque green aventurine color. It is not overly sensitive to atmosphere, but work in a neutral to slightly oxidizing flame.
NS-75	Indigo Aventurine	A deep blue aventurine color. Work in an oxidizing flame.
NS-76	Onyx	A deep green based black with excellent working properties. Work using a neutral to oxidizing flame.
NS-77	Deep Sea Blue	A smooth, deep opaque blue. Work in a neutral to slightly oxidizing flame.
NS-78	Mystery Aventurine	An exciting color that can be kiln struck to yield a wide array of silvery purples and pinks. Work in a hot oxidizing flame. Flame striking yields amber and gold hues.
NS-79	Blue Spruce	A great opaque blue/green. Work in an oxidizing flame to keep the clarity. Reduce for interesting gray streaks that appear to be growth rings of a tree.
NS-80	Hyacinth	A deep opaque faux purple. Work in a cool oxidizing flame to prevent graying and boiling See the Heat Sensitive color section.
NS-81	Blue Caramel	A rich buttery striking color. Keep it oxidized for hazy blues and greens. Reduce for the most scintillating mirror-like sheen.
NS-82	Ruby K	A versatile red designed for kiln striking. Work in a hot neutral to oxidizing flame.
NS-83	Skyline	A lighter version of NS-55 Periwinkle. Work in a soft neutral to slightly oxidizing flame. Work slowly to prevent boiling. Refer to the Heat Sensitive Color section for additional information.
NS-84	Goldenrod	A bright Intense Opaque gold color. Work slowly in a soft oxidizing flame to prevent boiling. See the Heat Sensitive color section.
NS-85	Poppy	An eye catching opaque orange. Work slowly in a soft oxidizing flame to prevent boiling. See the Heat Sensitive color section.
NS-86	Garnet	A medium intensity self-striking Ruby. Work in a hot neutral to oxidizing flame. It will not liver, but can develop brown hues if overworked. Kilning will not affect the strike. Refer to Ruby section for additional information.
NS-87	Garnet Dark	A high intensity self-striking Ruby. Work in an oxidizing flame. It will not liver, but it can develop a brown hue if overworked. Kilning will not affect the strike. Refer to Ruby section for additional information.
NS-88	Pomegranate	The lightest of the three self-striking Rubies. Work in a neutral flame. Will not liver or develop brown hues. The strike must be completed in the kiln at 1050 deg F. Refer to Ruby section for additional information.
NS-89	Nile	An appealing earth tone. Work in a hot oxidizing flame. Burn off haze and kiln or flame strike. Work like an Amber Purple.
NS-90	Rhapsody	A nice medium-dark intensity shade of purple. It is not sensitive to flame atmosphere.
NS-91	Ninja	A nice opaque blue based black. Work in a heavily oxidizing flame to prevent graying.
NS-92	Amethyst	A nice light-medium intensity shade of purple. It is not sensitive to flame atmosphere.
NS-93	Krazy	Work in a cool oxidizing flame to keep color un-struck. To strike, either kiln at 1050F or bathe in a gentle neutral flame to bring out a smoky blue hue. Prolonged reduction leads to a grayish blue opaque surface.
NS-94	Egyptian White Sand	Not sensitive to atmosphere but must be worked slowly in a soft, unfocused flame to prevent surface scarring and boiling. Once melted in smooth, heat can be soaked in more rapidly.
NS-95	Oregon Gray	An atmospherically stable opal. Work slowly in a soft, unfocused flame to prevent surface scarring. Once melted in smooth, heat can be soaked in more rapidly.
NS-96	Light Oregon Gray	An atmospherically stable opal. Work slowly in a soft, unfocused flame to prevent surface scarring. Once melted in smooth, heat can be soaked in more rapidly.
NS-97	Evergreen	A bright fully opaque green. Work in an oxidizing flame and heat slowly. Color can boil if heated aggressively. See the Heat Sensitive color section.
NS-98	Loch Ness	A dark opaque sparkly green. Best if worked in a neutral to oxidizing flame. Extended annealing tends to bring out a golden hue in this color.
NS-100	Black Lightning	A very dense black with silver. Black Lightning can yield a mirror like blue metallic finish or if over-reduced an organic earthy tone. To keep the Black Lightning most vibrant, work in a super oxidizing environment until you are finished with the piece. Then, turn the flame down and bathe the piece in a super reducing flame for several seconds to produce the mirror like sheen. For another great effect, encase NS-100 Black Lightning with clear. This color can be stretched out and is great for blown work. If heavily encased, be sure to anneal thoroughly. This is the bigger brother of NS-111 Alaskan Thunder.
NS-101	Purple Urple	A dark purple that looks like NS-80 Hyacinth but works differently in the flame. This opaque purple uses chrome based technology but does not have cracking problems. It is great for blown work and thin stringer application. It is heat and flame sensitive so it must be heated up slowly to prevent boiling. Once it glows red, NS-101 Purple Urple will take heat well. Because of its intensity it is sensitive to reduction. If the flame is not oxidizing enough, gray and brown streaks will develop on the surface of the glass. Try it with a layer of NS-32 Violet for a deep purple effect.
NS-102	Silver Bullet	A look alike of NS-44 Caramel. It is a rich silvery tan color that can be stretched out thin. It is great for stringer application and blown work. Work in a hot neutral to oxidizing flame for bright tan colors. To bring out the silvery mirror like sheen, bathe the piece in a reducing flame. Try NS-07 Ruby or NS-13 Amber Purple over NS-102 Silver Bullet.
NS-103	Berry Gumbolt	A fully opaque saturated dark blue. It is well suited for stringer application and blown work. It is not susceptible to reduction and is not flame sensitive. For best results keep it in a neutral flame. It is a great backing for such colors as NS-14 Irrid and NS-15 Turquesa, and goes well with NS-63 Canary.
NS-104	Unobtainium	A very dense gun metal blue with lots of sparkle. It is well suited for stringer application and blown work. It is easily worked and can take a lot of heat. To keep the color most vibrant, work in a neutral to slightly oxidizing flame. Try to avoid deep encasement, it may cause cracking. Please use NS-104 Unobtainium with care and test your application before making expensive pieces. Outside work seems to work just great with no problems. Try coating NS-104 Unobtainium with NS-86 Garnet or NS-88 Pomegranate to achieve a brilliant ruby sparkle. Any transparent color coated over NS-104 Unobtainium looks great.
NS-105	Silver Creek	A silver based color which produces the most exciting metallic purples and vermilions as well as silvery greens and blues. It is a very stable color. It behaves similarly in the flame as NS-13 Amber Purple and NS-26 Double Amber Purple, but because of its greater core range, more care has to be taken to prevent reduction and boiling. NS-105 Silver Creek can be stretched and can be blown relatively thin without losing the vibrant colors. Try using with other colors to achieve multi layered color combinations.
NS-106	Dark Amethyst	A light transparent violet color. This is a “what you see is what you get” color. Use in a slightly neutral to oxidizing flame for best results. NS-106 Dark Amethyst works like butter so do not hesitate to spread it over other colors. The color looks best in solid color blowouts and sculpture work. Stringers tend to lose color and may appear as a clear Violet.
NS-107	Green Tea	A transparent algae green color with no red reduction. Use in a hot oxidizing flame. NS-107 Green Tea is great for color coils and sculpture work. When pulled into stringers, the color fades easily. This is a chrome based color so please use with a little caution to avoid cracking.
NS-108	Blue Velvet	A deep navy blue color with small amounts of sparkle. Use in an oxidizing flame to cut down on any reduction from the heavy cobalt content. This color works great in all applications. Chrome is the ingredient that makes the sparkle so please use with caution.
NS-109	Plum Kush	A black sparkle. It is well suited for sculptural applications and blown work. It is creamy and works easily. When working NS-109 Plum Kush, do so in an oxidizing flame. A reductive environment will cause gray streaks to develop on the surface and will result in a dull matte finish. When applying the color, do so gently. After it is melted in, it can take a lot of heat. This is the first black sparkle introduced to the colored borosilicate palette and is a welcome addition to the palette of blacks from which to choose.
NS-110	Blue Metal	This is the bigger brother of NS-108 Blue Velvet. It has more sparkle and is more dense in color. Use an oxidizing flame to cut down on any reduction from the heavy cobalt content. This color works great in all applications. Chrome is the ingredient that makes the sparkle so please use with caution.
NS-111	Alaskan Thunder	A black blue silver color. When worked in an oxidizing flame, NS-111 Alaskan Thunder yields bright metallic blues, greens, and purples. When worked in a neutral flame it yields bright hazy green, white, and cream colors. When worked in a heavily reducing flame NS-111 Alaskan Thunder produces a nice ash gray. It is well suited for stringer application, blown work, and sculpture. Try encasing NS-111 Alaskan Thunder with clear or NS-09 Yellow for great effects.
NS-112	Mother of Green Pearl	A mossy green sparkle color. It is a bright semi opaque aventurine color. It is suitable for blown work and some stringer applications. Even when thinned, it will remain sparkly and bright. Work in a neutral to slightly oxidizing flame. If worked in a reducing flame the color will not develop reddish streaks. Be sure to anneal thoroughly when heavily cased. This color is Chrome based so please use caution.
NS-113	Turbo Amethyst	A smooth dark violet. This color is an intensified version of NS-106 Dark Amethyst. This is a “what you see is what you get” color that works like butter. Use in a slightly neutral to oxidizing flame for best results. NS-113 is the violet version of NS-33 Turbo Cobalt.
NS-114	Tan Silver Creek	A yellowish cream color. It can yield rich purplish blue and creamy tan tones. When kept in a more oxidizing environment, you will get more of the blues and purples. If reduced, a silvery haze will appear on the surface. NS-114 Tan Silver Creek is easy to work and can take a lot of heat which makes it a forgiving striking color. It can be stretched out and is good for blown work and sculpture. If you are looking for something even more intense, try NS-44 Caramel or NS-102 Silver Bullet.
NS-115	Silver Sea Weed	A funky green color. It is a wild silver striker that can take a lot of heat and be used in many different applications. Working in an oxidizing flame will yield intense purple hues that are like northern lights. If reduced this color will inherit wispy cream colors with a tint of green.
NS-116	Silver Pearl	A green color with a splash of mossy sheen on the surface. This is just like NS-115 Silver Sea Weed, but with a mossy sheen. Use in a hot oxidizing flame. NS-116 Silver Pearl is great for color coils and sculpture work. When pulled down into stringers the color fades easily. This is a chrome based color so please use little caution. In an oxidizing atmosphere this color will turn purple, green, blue, and even jadish green. If reduced you will get green cream colors and also purple.
NS-117	Millennium Falcon	A transparent green sparkle. It is suitable for blown work and some stringer applications. When thinned, it will remain sparkly and bright. To keep NS-117 Millennium Falcon a pure green, work in a neutral to slightly oxidizing flame. If worked in a reducing flame it will develop reddish streaks. Be sure to anneal thoroughly when heavily encased. This color is a transparent version of NS-73 Millennium Moss. NS-117 Millennium Falcon works great for coating other colors to make a fast sparkle.
NS-118	Obtainium	A blackish to grayish sparkle color. Use a neutral to oxidizing flame for best results. This is a “what you see is what you get” color. To avoid fading, try to avoid overheating. NS-118 Obtainium is a chrome based color so please use caution. You will be amazed at this color. It is one of our favorites.
NS-119	Super Unobtainium	A dark blue sparkle. This color has lots of large crystals of metal on the surface. It is well suited for stringer application and blown work. It is easily worked and can take a lot of heat. To keep the color most vibrant, work in a neutral to slightly oxidizing flame. Try to avoid deep encasement as it may cause cracking. Please use NS-119 Super Unobtainium with care and test before you make any thing that is expensive. Outside work seems to work just great with no problems. Try coating NS-119 Super Unobtainium with NS-86 Garnet or NS-88 Pomegranate to achieve a brilliant ruby sparkle. Any transparent color coated over NS-119 Super Unobtainium looks great. NS-119 Super Unobtainium has lots more sparkle but does not have the Gun Metal surface of NS-104 Unobtainium.
NS-120	Silver Unobtainium	Also a dark blue sparkle that has silver in it. It is well suited for stringer application and blown work. It is easily worked and can take a lot of heat. To keep the color most vibrant, work in a neutral to slightly oxidizing flame. Try to avoid deep encasement that may cause cracking. When worked in an oxidizing flame NS-120 Silver Unobtainium stays a dark blue color with wispy hues of silver over it. If reduced the color does not show much sparkle but still has many vivid colors.
NS-121	Blue Nebula	A dark opaque navy blue color. This color is a “what you see is what you get” color. NS-121 Blue Nebula is easily worked in all applications. Use an oxidizing flame to cut down on the reduction of Cobalt in the color. NS-121 Blue Nebula holds up very nicely when thinned.
NS-122	Blue Thunder	A dark cobalt blue color with silver. When worked in an oxidizing flame NS-122 Blue Thunder yields bright metallic blues. When worked in a neutral flame it yields bright hazy greens. When worked in a heavily reducing flame NS-122 Blue Thunder produces a nice ash gray. It is well suited for stringer application, blown work, and sculpture. NS-122 Blue Thunder is a lighter version of NS-45 Blue Moon with the same working values.
NS-123	Crystal Bliss	A light cobalt blue with lots of sparkle. The color is not heat sensitive and works great. NS-123 Crystal Bliss is very light in color and when pulled thin, the color will fade to clear. We created NS-123 Crystal Bliss the artists that like to coat their colors with sparkle. Use an oxidizing flame to cut down on red lines of copper.
NS-124	Silver Amethyst	A dark violet color with silver. Work in a cool oxidizing flame to prevent overheating and striking the color. When ready to strike, either kiln strike at 1050F or bathe the glass in a gentle bushy neutral flame to bring out the soft blue strike. NS-124 Silver Amethyst is best suited for moderately thick coil-potted blown work and sculptural applications. When encased in clear this color produces a vibrant violet with wisps of metallic blue. Prolonged reduction leads to a grayish blue opaque surface. Have fun with this color!
NS-125	Jet Black	A very dense black. It is well suited for sculptural applications and blown work. It is creamy and works easily, making it a welcome addition to the palette of blacks from which to choose. When working NS-125 Jet Black, do so in an oxidizing flame. If worked in a reductive environment it will develop gray streaks on the surface and result in a dull matte finish. When applying the color, do so gently. After it is melted in it can take a lot of heat. NS-125 Jet Black is great in combination with many colors and serves as a background for striking colors.
NS-126	Opaque Aqua	A very nice opal blue green color. It is well suited for stringer application and blown work. NS-126 Opaque Aqua will enhance your art because it has a really nice appearance and color. It is not susceptible to reduction and is not flame sensitive. For best results keep it in a neutral flame.
NS-129	Steel Wool	A unique addition to the borosilicate color palette. It is a funky, bumpy color rod that turns smooth when melted. It has tons of sparkle and can be mixed with any color to add a sparkly shimmer to any piece. NS-129 Steel Wool can be used in all applications without cracking issues, but use caution in deep encasement. We recommend using a neutral/oxidizing flame for NS-129 Steel Wool. Use in the back of the flame and try a reducing flame to cut down on boiling. Try mixing NS-20 Dark Cobalt with NS-129 Steel Wool to get a very nice blue sparkle. A little hand mixing of NS-129 Steel Wool will give you the color you desire.
NS-131	English Ivy	A light transparent aquamarine color, that when used in the flame, can yield many color hues. This color is in the same family as NS-13 Amber Purple and NS-03 Multi so the color possibilities are endless. NS-131 English Ivy produces metallic blues and sea greens. When reduced, this color can yield earthy reds and browns. We recommend using an oxidizing flame to achieve the most vivid color. Because it is more saturated than NS-13 Amber Purple and NS-03 Multi, it will react much more quickly to the particular chemistry of the flame so be careful not to over reduce. To yield other interesting effects, try encasing NS-131 English Ivy with clear or backing it with an opaque color like NS-54 Star White. This color can be stretched thin, so it is well suited for delicate blown work, stringer application, and cane work.
NS-132	Lokis Lipstick	A silver striking color. It is a close companion to NS-13 Amber Purple but with a little more control of the color strike. Work NS-132 Lokis Lipstick in an oxidizing flame to achieve the most vivid color range. It can be struck in the torch or in the kiln. You can achieve colors that look like gold and silver fume and also deep purples. If reduced enough, it will yield creamy yellows and whites. NS-132 Lokis Lipstick works well in all applications. It is quickly becoming a must in the artist’s palette.
NS-133	Silver Aqua	This has been formulated at the request of many artists who love the consistency of NS-126 Opaque Aqua and wanted a silver version to enhance the color spectrum of the piece they are making. To achieve the most vivid color, work NS-133 Silver Aqua in a neutral flame. The hues that can be achieved from NS-133 Silver Aqua range from a deep navy blue and nice blue purples to a whitish yellow hue.